One for EdBear ??

[Oldandshaky]

Hi Ed, while my light Pattern is still stripped down and I have time on my hands waiting for a new spring and refurbishing the stock (the previous owner used to keep it hanging on a garden fence)
I thought I might as well strip the trigger block, a three hole type, but I have no idea where to begin, will there be any surprise springs flicking out? Is it an easy job or should I just leave it be, it is working ok. Any advise is very welcome.

Dave...

[edbear2]

P.M. sent!....

[edbear2]

Hi Dave....assuming all screws come out easily, there is not much to do really...The one bugbear I have found is the sear pivot screw can be a swine to remove.....Make sure your drivers are a perfect fit, and keep pressure on whilst turning......the build up of old dried grease/oil, combined with minimal clearance around the screw head makes this normally the worst one!. If they all move, disregard the next paragraph!.....

.If they are stiff, I would, if you are not desperate time wise, place it on its right hand side, and fill the trigger and sear screw recesses with plusgas/diesel/penetrating oil, or even better submerge the whole thing for 48 hours....I have even used engine decoke spray before.....

The innards consist of the sear, trigger and a spring which fits between these two....on one end of the spring is a small rounded pin which fits in the end of the spring to provide a bearing surface......the "adjust" screw is tapered, and the "lock" screw is flat ended......I normally remove these first (start with the lock screw).....then I undo the sear and trigger screws together, and remove the sear/trigger as a unit if possible.....this way you will see the relationship/orientation of the spring......(the rounded pin end of the spring locates in the sear hole if it does drop out separately!)

That's it!......I normally give all a really good clean......examine the trigger notches and sear release (where it holds the piston rod) for cracks or evidence of wear......I normally (carefully) clean these up with a small fine arkansas stone being careful not to change any angles....If you put the screws through the parts, and lay them on a bit of thick card with holes laid out the same as the block, you will see how it works, and what parts touch....I also polish the Spring hole base in the sear (small dowel on dremel) and also the rounded pin when removed from the spring.....basically any part that moves against another, with the exception of the engagement edges.

Sorry if this sounds complicated.....It really isn't.......but if you are not happy removing metal (which all polishing is!).....just a good clean will suffice and a bit of grease either end of the spring....It's just that the trigger action is made much nicer by a careful bit of work.....To re-assemble, I normally lay out the trigger and sear (with a bit of grease in the pivot holes of both)....place the spring in position, and put the whole lot back at once....then, carefully hand start both pivot screws, tighten lightly, and check function by pushing the piston rod home into the trigger block, and pulling the trigger.

Replace the "adjust" screw very gently, until you feel the trigger move, then back out a bit....this is your starting point....replace "lock" screw until it bottoms against the "adjust" screw, and nip up....

Trigger pressure adjustment...I normally slacken "lock" and go a few degrees at a time on the "adjust" screw, relocking, and checking trigger pull weight....as we said, the "adjust" screw is tapered....so imagine that it bears on the back of the trigger above the trigger pivot......as you screw the "adjust" screw in, because it's tapered it will slowly have the same effect as you pulling the trigger....ie. cause the trigger / sear engagement to be less.....This is fine, and a normal type of thing on old guns.....BUT....be careful about making the trigger too light as the parts are cast steel, and if the piston rod is very lightly engaged and the gun goes off without you pulling the trigger, the sear can shatter (besides the obvious other danger)........I always use a small spring balance to set the pull at a minimum of 4 pounds.....any less is risking it IMHO (and this was the original setting anyway)...others may disagree, this is just my personal "safety margin"

I have just read back through this, and I am sure I have made it sound 10 times more complicated than it is

[Oldandshaky]

Thank you Eddie, that's a most comprehensive guide and not at all hard to understand.
I followed the instructions and removed the lock and adjustment screws first then the sear and trigger screws together and as you said the sear screw was a little bit tighter than the others but they all came out with no problems.

The impressive thing is how well made these parts are, I didn't expect the solidity and craftsmanship, its no wonder that these fine guns are still going strong after all this time. I will give them a good clean and polish and take some photos before I reassemble.

Once again many thanks for your help its most appreciated..

Dave..

[Binners]

What is it with you two....Why don't yer just leave em hanging on the fence like all normal people