new bloke with old bsa

[RICHY]

hi people, im new to the site just trying to find out some info on an old .22 bsa that ive had for about 25 years! looking at pictures of other bsa's it looks like what you call a lincoln Jeffries?the drop arm doesnt have the set bit at the end,just a push button to release the arm.the number by the trigger is S49801,it also has the wording (adjust H L) By the trigger.on opposite side it says lock.on the moving part near the spring it say's ,P. PAT 16983-29. The only other mark i can see is the number 2 stamped by the top sight on the barrel.it was a birthday present from my parents when i was about 15.many thanks for any help or info, cheers Rich.

[RichardH]

The helpful old farts in the collectors section will give you chapter and verse.

Try there

[RICHY]

ta

[sol1821]

The helpful old farts in the collectors section will give you chapter and verse.

Try there

you've done it now, killed off a new member by sticking him in here, hes going to have problems breathing with all the dust.

<walks out chocking and gasping for breath>

[Prewar]

BSA Standard 1932
Welcome to the best corner of the internet

[RICHY]

thanks people, just found some pictures of one the same for sale ,on here.some one called pre war?only difference is mine has bsa engraved on the stock in the stippled bit.

[ogilkes]

Welcome and grand that your first air rifle was a BSA/Lincoln Jeffries! The original of all modern spring air rifles. Talk about learning at the feet of the master.

[edbear2]

Hi Mate.........There is so much on here in various threads about the model of gun you have, it would be well worth you doing a search......I have posted a couple of links you may find helpful .....It would be nice to see a photo (you would have to use photobucket or flikr and post a link in this section...or I can host the pics if you send me an email).......Your gun can be valued at between £75 - £250+ depending on condition and if there are parts missing/damaged.....if you can see writing (etching) on the top of the cylinder, and it is in good order......It's a good one!......Working well, with open sights, this will hold it's own against any springer around, and in good order can run at 10.5 - 11.5 pounds energy easily. The original model was introduced in 1905 and yours is a descendant of that, and the forefather of the airsporter range (although better made in every way than any Airsporter except the very early ones)

Ammunition thread;

http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=325990

Standard T thread;

http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405988

http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/show...ighlight=lakey

http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=402011

The above are all BSA prewar underlever related......you will see from people's posts what a following they have (the model D's referred to are an earlier variation of yours......give it a day of serious zeroing and use.....you will be in for a treat!)

[RICHY]

it does get light use um targets in back garden i recently had it looked at by local gun shop ,they re washer'd it and generally gave it a load more power it always used to be good until i lent it to a mate to get rid of some pigeons and he said it was not powerful enough.think keeping it under the stairs with the boiler dried it out?it does have small hairline cracks by the trigger guard.the gun shop said that these could be welded up,good or bad idea?

[edbear2]

it does get light use um targets in back garden i recently had it looked at by local gun shop ,they re washer'd it and generally gave it a load more power it always used to be good until i lent it to a mate to get rid of some pigeons and he said it was not powerful enough.think keeping it under the stairs with the boiler dried it out?it does have small hairline cracks by the trigger guard.the gun shop said that these could be welded up,good or bad idea?

Hi Ritchie.......these cracks are caused by the gun being used with the trigger guard screws loose.....you also need to check the stock bolt if there is the slightest movement between wood and metal.....there is an inspection "plate"...(actually an oval wood bung with two screws) in the stock butt....inside there is a long, large fixing bolt with a slotted head......It's recessed deeply, and you will need either a long, large screwdriver or better still a 3/8" socket extension with a flat bit insert.

Back to the trigger guard cracks........have they joined up, or are they single cracks?........in very extreme cases, can look like this;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7616789686347/

If smaller, single cracks, you can stop them migrating by drilling a 1/8" hole at the end, and using a countersink/slightly larger drill to deburr the holes (both sides...use a short section of drill inside).....you will still have cracks, but they should not get bigger. Welding is possible, and you can leave it showing if not a full penetration weld, or clean up and touch up blue if done correctly) .......the best process is TIG welding with a nickle/iron repair rod like jethete .....the welds however will not take blue......or you can use an alloy steel filler like 4130 .....not as tough, but can be refinished......If properly done, and full penetration is achieved, you will need to clean up inside, so if the crack is through the cylinder thread, it is a real pain......If the guy is careful, he will be able to run a bead along the crack, but not penetrate through (this is when you need to use a high strength rod)

If you get it done properly.....you can clean up a weld like this;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7612482184171/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7612482184171/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7612482184171/

This is alloy steel (4130) tube........Any qualified fabricator/welder will be able to weld it easily, and you can file/sand and polish it back yourself........just take you time!