bsa standard help

[1984]

i have a bsa standard which im sure has the cocking link bolt snapped off leaving just a big hole, the gun still cocks as normal though just wondering if anyone has come across this problem and also how to get out whats left of the bolt without damaging the metal as the blueing is still good for the age of the gun.

[edbear2]

HI..can you describe it a bit better please?........below are two pics, the top is a later style standard, below an earlier one........which bolt, and how is it snapped?.......

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7621938344655/


http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7615751921626/





(It is an easy job to remove a seized/snapped bolt if you know someone who has a tig welder, and is possible without touching the blue........The technique is that you, bit by bit, build up a column of weld on the end of the affected part, then either drop over a nut, weld it and remove as a bolt, or use a small slide hammer if a pin etc......The heat has the effect of loosening seized bolts and has a capillary action which draws in oil to aid the process)

[1984]

hi Edbear2,
it is the same as the 2nd picture, the bolt looks like its snapped flush with the cocking lever ( very left bolt in picture) leaving a recessed hole in view.
thanks Geoff.

[edbear2]

Hi Geoff.......O.K. mate thanks.......This bolt is a slotted raised cheese head type, and I have not seen one before with the damage you describe....the cause could be one of two things....basically it has been broken (assuming it is the original) by serious over-tightening.....or it is seized in and has been broken by an attempt at removal....They normally crack flush and you lose one side of the head only...to lose both sides is unusual!......Have a really close look with a 10x glass, and see if the end looks like this has actually happened.

The gun will work fine as is....the other end is threaded, and secure in the opposite side of the cocking arm. You can get these screws new from John Knibbs International, if you want to replace it.

To remove......obviously if it has been broken by overtightening, it may be quite free once you can get purchase on it......I would highly recommend NEVER using an "easy - out" as they are HSS steel, and if they break as well, you are really in a world of poo.

An old dodge is to carefully drill it dead center, then tap in a tapered, square,file handle (this only works if it is quite loose - as yours may be)....you said the blueing was quite good, so it may just have been done up really tight....or there are things called "grabit" bolt removers...but I think these only go down to m4 in size, so may be a bit tight.

OR.......you could go the weld way....a simple job, which normally I would say I could do in 5 mins......the problem is I finish work this friday, and am working in the USA (again) till the end of January......If it can wait, and you want to post it to me....it will cost just what the postage price is both ways, I will be glad to help out


P.S........I will do a bolt at work tommorow, and post pics so so can show them to anyone who has a tig set and get their opinion.....It really is an easy job if you have the kit!

[1984]

thanks mate when i said broken flush with the cocking arm i mean its broken where the cocking arm face is so getting a weld in there would be quite a task, ill have a go at drilling it through from the other side and use the tang of a small file hopefully it is loose and it will screw out from the rear going inwards, then another bolt will have to be sought.
thanks again for your help.
Geoff.

[edbear2]

thanks mate when i said broken flush with the cocking arm i mean its broken where the cocking arm face is so getting a weld in there would be quite a task, ill have a go at drilling it through from the other side and use the tang of a small file hopefully it is loose and it will screw out from the rear going inwards, then another bolt will have to be sought.
thanks again for your help.
Geoff.

Hi Geoff........(and please forgive me if you have engineering experience....I am by no means trying to teach you to "suck eggs" )....If you have the kit mate, at least take the cocking lever(s) off as a unit, and use a pillar drill, with a small centre drill to start off..This will at least ensure it is drilling in line with the bolt......It sounds like you have quite a nice example there .....any chance of a serial number so we can nail down the exact year / model?......if you are going this route, a hot air gun and some plusgas before committing to applying turning pressure on the file tang will give it the best chance. I will still go ahead with the piccys tomorrow anyway, as some on here may find it interesting. Good luck mate, and let me know how it goes!