Will this work? Meteor Mk5

[ggggr]

A MK5 Meteor turned up and I was wondering what to do with it (I should stop buying guns as I will have to move house this year). I have been toying with the idea of leaving the buffer out of a Meteor and hoping someone could turn me up a piston head rather than alter an existing one. Anyway on stripping the Mk5 I noticed it had the piston head held with the circlip rather than the "keyhole" type piston and it got me thinking. I left the buffer off the head and put it on the piston, then thought "Right, I just need a few washers on the inside off the piston on the spigot to make up the width of the buffer and refit the circlip". Not having enough of the right sized washers, I decided to open up the hole on a tap washer, fit that on the spigot, on the inside of the piston, fit 1 washer and then the circlip. I would have preferred a solid washer but reasoned like this----It probably doesnt matter where the buffer is too much for buffering purposes. If the buffer is on the inside of the piston, then I have the benefit of the increased swept volume in front of the piston head, the mainspring is under the same amount of tension when fitted and I still have a buffer washer in the gun. Not tried the gun yet and dont have a chrono but-----Is this theory right or wrong. Get thinking

[lightning22]

The way I'm reading it you will be increasing the preload by spacing the spring at the piston end. You would certainly gain some extra swept volume but I'm not sure what benefit you'd gain from the buffer.

[duomatic410]

Your piston could end up hitting your cocking lever???? john

[coburn]

I think thats what John Bowkett used to do to get 12ftlbs out of a Meteor.

[duomatic410]

Gggr.
Send me your address. John

[lightning22]

I think thats what John Bowkett used to do to get 12ftlbs out of a Meteor.

John did quite a few things to get 12ftlbs out of the Meteor, looking inside mine found a steel piston head with a white square section seal, longer stroke, heavy piston weight, a rather stiff spring and a radiused transfer port.

It's interesting but not very nice to shoot and the rubbish BSA scope rails mean you end up catching the scope as it tries to exit stage left.

My next little project is to make a piston head that will take a proprietary parachute seal and see what difference it makes before increasing the stroke.

Rich

[ggggr]

I would have used washers if I had enough of the right size or one thick one---thinking that these would act as a piston weight. only doing it as a bit of an experiment as I dont do anything other than plink. I haven,t got a chrono so I wont be able to tell really. I actually fitted a new mainspring in this gun as the one it came with was well knackered---AND it was one of those copper coloured jobbies I got from M.A.G. rather than a silver streak so I wanted to see if it would fit ok. This isn,t very scientific either but the spring went in ok using my bit of saddle stem with slots cut in it, without the need to resort to using gloves to protect my delicate hands. I therefore thought that while the spring is longer than a sliver streak, that it must be "softer".
Confession time. The gun was making a horrible racket when cocked(even before), which I put down to the rubbing pad missing from the inside of the stock. I cut a slim piece of something a nice chap had sent me for such purposes and glued it in place, The action wouldn,t go in the stock and I spent an HOUR trying to thin the pad. I ended up heating a bit of flat bar and burning it to the right thickness. It cured it though