Reply With Quotehttp://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/show...=379345&page=2Originally Posted by j_potter
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webley premier strip
i want to strip down a webley premier mk 1. i've tried the search on here but can't find any links to instructions. can anyone point me to a link or suggest an article. many thanks. i keep asking questions on here and always get fantastically helpful replies ! if anyone could scan an original instruction manual and parts list that would be a big help.
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http://www.airgunbbs.com/forums/show...=379345&page=2
Never rub another man's rhubarb!
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Webley overlever pistols (Junior, Mk1, Senior, Premier, Typhoon, Tempest and Hurricane) are easy to strip and relube.
I have five Webley overlevers, a Mk1, a Senior, a Premier and a couple of Tempests, I love their heritage, the fact that they are the development of a line going back to 1922. I also love the fact that there's so little to go wrong with them!
To service, use a punch to push out the pins that hold the trigger guard and trigger parts in (and on the Tempest, Typhoon and Hurricane, push out the pin that holds the fore-end on). Take good note of the position of the trigger parts. On the Tempest, Typhoon and Hurricane, slide off the trigger guard and the plastic fore-end, this allows you to push out the pin holding the metal plug in the fore-end of the cylinder. On the Mk1, Junior, Senior and Premier, unscrew the pivot pin that the barrel hinges on. This frees the barrel. On the Tempest, Typhoon and Hurricane, as the pin comes all the way out, the fore-end plug and the spring will come free as well. There shouldn't be much preload on the spring but it will push the plug out as the pin comes out. On the other pistols, the fore-end plug has to be unscrewed before it comes free. Use a piece of wood (or some other material that will not mark the steel) that fits into the slot to turn it, don't use pliers or mold-grips as they will mark the fore-end plug. Slide the barrel linkage out of the cocking slot, and the pistol is mostly stripped.
Clean the parts as best you can. If you can't wash them with solvent, a good clean with rags should do, but do make sure the inside of the cylinder is as clean as possible.
Check the piston head for wear... If, while servicing a Premier, Tempest, Typhoon, or a Hurricane, you notice a split on the plastic piston head washer, don't worry, it's supposed to have that! Mk1s and Juniors have leather piston head washers, do a search on here for a guide to making new ones from scraps of leather if you think you need to replace one of these. Seniors have a metal piston ring, if that needs replacement you will need to purchase one.
Lubes: rub Moly GN paste well into all the trigger parts, the inside of the cylinder, the inside and outside of the piston too. I find motorcycle Chain Wax aerosols good for spring lube, just spray it on quite liberally and you will find that it dampens out twang quite nicely. I put a little moly grease on the ends of the spring too. All the pivot points (like the pin at the fore-end that the barrel hinges on) will benefit from Moly GN paste rubbed in. Cocking will also be a lot smoother if you apply GN paste to the cocking slot and in the small t-shaped link that goes through the slot. Also, put some GN paste on the fulcrum, this is the bump near the barrel-hinge that the cocking link slides over as you cock it (mk1s and juniors do not have the fulcrum).
The trigger is pretty easy to strip and reassemble and does benefit a lot from being treated with moly paste, you just need to push out the pins in the trigger guard first, then the pins that the trigger parts turn on, then all the trigger parts come out through the slot in the underside of the trigger housing, but do pay attention to their orientation. On the Tempest, Typhoon and Hurricane, it is important to note the position of the small spring that is held in place by the front of the trigger guard, maybe draw a diagram, this will help when reassembling the trigger. Put Moly paste in the holes in the trigger parts and on the pins that they pivot on. The trigger may feel tight and heavy to start with but it will return to normal with a little use and will then improve still further!
These pistols really are improved a lot by modern lubricants. I know that Webley used to recommend just plain Webley Oil, but these pistols improve so much with GN paste, Chain Wax and a little grease too, I don't know why Webley never changed their lubrication instructions. I am sure that modern lubes like these will keep these pistols running nicely for a much longer time than oil alone, it will be more pleasant to shoot and cock as well. I love my Webleys!
One final word about the roll-pins, it should be fairly obvious which side they were inserted from, you should try to remove and replace them from the same side that the original assembler of the pistol used, if you're lucky it will be obvious as on one side the holes around the pins will be flattened slightly, or the pins will be shiny where they have been tapped into place. pushing them out and replacing them from the same side saves wear on the holes and means that you don't have to peen the edges of the holes over to keep the pins secure. It's nothing to worry about as, serviced like this it should be years before you need to strip it again, it's about seven years since I first serviced my Tempest like this and it's still fine despite fairly regular use.
Last edited by Rob M; 09-09-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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that's fantastic rob, many thanks for your help. as a further point, i've got a mark 1 premier with the lacquer finish. is it madness to try and strip the lacquer off and have it blued, and what might get the lacquer off anyway?
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