Old Air Rifle

[mjr693]

Hi Guys,
I was working for one of my regular customers when he thrust this old air rifle in my hand and asked me if I could bring it back to life.
The first problem is to identify what make and model it is!!.
Then if anybody has any advice as to how to go about reconditioning this rifle, it would be most welcome.
I look foward to hearing from the learned members on here.
Cheers
Mike

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/r...93/Guns034.jpg
http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/r...93/Guns033.jpg
http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/r...93/Guns032.jpg

[Prewar]

Its a 20's -30's BSA Standard or Light, is it .177 or .22 + how long is it? Serial number on trigger block will date it more exactly, spares available from Knibbs or Chambers I think

[mjr693]

Hi,
Thanks for reply.
Overall length is 45 1/4"
Serial No: S34781
.22 Cal.
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Mike

[edbear2]

HI......that looks to be a 1927/28 BSA standard no2......In fairly average condition for one that has been left unattended for a few years.......It probably works as it is, But as a precaution, you could unscrew the three screws that fix the triggerguard (the front two screw into the triggerblock and prevent rotation)...and, standing the gun upright with the muzzle on something like a piece of carpet on a solid surface, unscrew the back end, the wood and trigger block will come off as one.......you then remove the spring, or springs (may be one long one, or two shorter ones)....then remove the screw which connects the arm which goes into the slot underneath, and take this part off....hook this bit in the piston and withdraw, and check that there are no foreign bodys inside the chamber (old pellets, nails, ball bearings......it DOES happen!).....If the leather washer on the piston is in good order, and the screw is tight, and the spring is not broken, the next thing to do is clean the barrel with a cleaning rod, or small cloth patches pulled through until bright......a bit of grease on the piston and spring, replace all as removed, and the gun will function!

Cosmetically, a light rub with 0000 grade wire wool soaked in oil on all metal surfaces will improve things no end, and you may well get a nice suprise.if he is not happy with that, then a reblue will cost £50-70 pounds.......the stock can be given a wipe with a variety of proprietary oils as you prefer, ccl oil is quite good. The gun looks complete (I cant see the front sight, but the rearsight looks OK, so that is a result!).....does the rear of the stock have an oval bung with two screws present.these are often missing/broken?...this is the access to remove the stock, you will need a large, long screwdriver (or better still, a 3/8 drive socket extension, with flat blade insert)

lots more info on various threads on here..there is a spring gun lubrication one for example, but it depends on what the owners expectations are, a full refurbishment, or a "honest" example, cleaned up and functional, which this gun could easily be made.

[mjr693]

Hi Edbear,
Many thanks for comprehensive reply, I will follow it to the letter.
The front sight appears to be intact.
As for how far the owner wants to go I will find out tomorrow, but I think he wants the full monty including re-blueing.
Cheers
Mike

[edbear2]

Hi Mike.........I am assuming that the gun cocks and holds......ie. the trigger mechanism works (there is a single spring in there).......When dis-assembled, carefully check the piston rod notch for damage or cracks, and if possible, unscrew the two front screws in the trigger block (these are often tight)..this will release the trigger/sear pair, with the small spring and plunger that goes between, and allow you to check the sear face (the part that bears on the piston rod)..and the trigger/sear notches as well......the rearmost screw on the block (LHS as if looking down the barrel) is the trigger weight adjusting screw......this is a flat ended, tapered screw...as you screw it in (after backing out the "lock" screw opposite).....the tapered portion bears on the back of the trigger above the pivot point, with the effect of reducing the contact area between sear and trigger......is is very important not to go too light on the trigger pull...4 pounds is accepted (and was recommended at the time of sale) as a minimum.....if you go a lot more, you risk either an unwanted shot discharge, failure of the piston to hold, or more often, the sear face itself shattering (as they are hardened and quite brittle)......normally they give 100 years of service, but too light a trigger pull is the sure way to damage them!


Screws out;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7623212067613/

(these can be a real pain/very tight.....soak in plusgas/diesel for 48 hours, clean as best as can both recesses and the opposite sides (I noticed yours are a bit clogged with dried grease etc.) if any problems.......if you have access, use oxy/acy........nozzle no 1, and quickly and carefully concentrate heat on the screw heads for about 5 seconds, wait 5 seconds, then blast with plusgas/wd40......repeat a couple of times if needed......if screws are very badly damaged, I can remove with tig if you really get stuck)

trigger/sear removed as pair........replace together as shown;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7623212067613/

(if you push a nail through a bit of thick card, the same distance that the two front screws are on the block, you can lay out the trigger sear on this using the pivot screws, and so keep all in order until you need to look at them)

To replace the trigger/sear....I like to do this with the group assembled, just ease them back into the slot, and "feel" your way in with the two pivot screws......all a lot easier than I am making it sound (sure I have posted all this before..maybe worth a trawl back through my posts, or a pm if any probs).....as mentioned before on thread J.Knibbs has springs/washer sets etc.

[Garvin]

If I had the time....

I would copy Eddie's posts above, plus some others he's done in the past - including the classic one from the other day on what to look for when buying a pre-War Beeza - and combine them with various of Lakey's expert posts to create The Definitive Pre-1939 BSA Air Rifles Information Thread, which Gareth could turn into one of the most informative stickies of all time.

....But I haven't.