Reply With QuoteStrange, with no marks on t'other side it looks like someone has tried to obliterate the serial number!
On a trundle around the net........found this, and it looked like a beaut until I saw the left hand side of the trigger block!.What a shame, the rest of the gun (foresight excepted), looks like a little used example of this hard to find in this condition gun;
http://www.joesalter.com/index.html
Check the index for BB/air.........some interesting earlier webley pistols on there as well
Last edited by edbear2; 17-02-2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Strange, with no marks on t'other side it looks like someone has tried to obliterate the serial number!
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Hi Dave.......I dunno....I think it may have been transported loose and been banging against something maybe?.......Have seen similar damage at car boots, where they have slung a gun in a van, then covered it with tools etc.Originally Posted by DCL_dave
Strange, with no marks on t'other side it looks like someone has tried to obliterate the serial number!
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Hi Ed,
Just seems strange that the damage is so localised to the area of the serial number, but it doesn't actually disguise the S/N very well...perhaps someone used the gun like a hammer to knock a nail in.
On a completely unrelated matter, and because you're a genius with this sort of thing (so hope you don't mind me asking)...how would you make tapered pins if you didn't have a lathe?...this'll probably make you cringe but I'm thinking spin a piece of suitably sized round bar in a drill and work it down with emery wrapped around a piece of flat steel...is this a stupid idea?
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Registered User
Dave , - on mine there are some 'pins' made up from steel drill bits that have been inserted thensnapped off ...Did not like this at all but it works and works well . An engineer friend said thats a common workable method of repairinng time consuming pin/bar manufacture .
[ ps Email sent - sorry for delay ].
" WHEN YOU'RE GOING TO SHOOT - SHOOT , DON'T TALK ! "
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Hi Jon,
It is to replace non original barrel axis and cocking lever pins on this Jean Marck No3 .25 cal Gem. I did briefly consider just drilling it out to take a ground down drill bit, but I would rather not because it makes for an unsympathetic restoration job and (IMHO) ruins the originality...so, while I can live the the actual pivots being non original, I would rather them be as they should be...does that makes sense?
Cheers,
Dave
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Registered User
Yes know exactly what you mean , but I have to be honest on some Airguns , you just accept how they come as , without looking at a restoration job . An engineer will make up steel pins for you , and you may just be able to make a set yourself - however you try to go about it . Mine has snaped off hardened steel drill bits in the holes .
As you know I like Gems . But near all are in the condition that you usually find Gems in ....I will either strip and refinish or reblue one only and that will be made to look as good as.
The rest will be coated in oil and left just as they are
The time and effort taken - satisfaction certainly - but cost and time .
If it was a BSA then that would be diffferent . Just use some old Drill bits
" WHEN YOU'RE GOING TO SHOOT - SHOOT , DON'T TALK ! "
HI Dave,......just sitting down after a 4 hour snow epic adventure on a normal 20 min journey from workHi Ed,
On a completely unrelated matter, and because you're a genius with this sort of thing (so hope you don't mind me asking
.Your idea is sound mate, I would personally use a very fine file to start (maybe hold the drill in a workmate whilst it is running, then you get more control, and can use both hands on the file.....And maybe use a stone/oil at a slower speed to get the finish finer before you get onto the emery....or if you have rolls of the stuff, just go for it
I tend to use Tesa double sided tape to back emery cloth, then stick it to the steel, as long as you go easy, it works really well......have fun mate, there is nothing like making your own stuff.....Ed
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HI Dave,......just sitting down after a 4 hour snow epic adventure on a normal 20 min journey from work
.Your idea is sound mate, I would personally use a very fine file to start (maybe hold the drill in a workmate whilst it is running, then you get more control, and can use both hands on the file.....And maybe use a stone/oil at a slower speed to get the finish finer before you get onto the emery....or if you have rolls of the stuff, just go for it
I tend to use Tesa double sided tape to back emery cloth, then stick it to the steel, as long as you go easy, it works really well......have fun mate, there is nothing like making your own stuff.....Ed
Cheers Ed, much appreciated. couple more questons...would it be better to use a slightly oversized drill bit shank, or a mild steel bar?...I assume the mild steel will be easier to work but will need hardening, whereas the tool steel will be already hardened, so much more difficult to work with my rudimentary tools...
If it was a BSA then that would be diffferent . Just use some old Drill bits
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Drills are HSS, not tool steel.....and the drill shank is pretty soft.....the ideal would be to go to an engineers suppliers and get some silver steel rod. Then you can make a proper job.....without getting too technical, It really is fairly easy to make a pin that is as good mechanically as an original using silver steel....the "secret" is in what you do when you have got the right shape done......all you do is heat it up to red hot (cherry)...easy on a gas ring/small part and and dip it in salty water, then clean it and get it shiny, and reheat carefully watching the colours change till it is the right one for your purpose, and "stop" it there by quenching again. I know you may think this is high tech, but I was taught this at the age of 12 in metalwork at school (proper lessons then....my O level wood/metal project was crossbow
Honestly, it's something anyone on here can do with a £10 propane torch, or a cooker.........This article may be helpful (he calls silver steel drill rod which is confusing, just ask for silver steel.....loads on line, and it's cheap in the sizes usefull to gun repairs.....ie. £1.68 for 1/4 inch by 13 inch!
Steel supplies;
http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk...eel-c-167.html
Useful Linky;
http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/ad...hrish/t-ht.htm
(Bear with the science, the second half is what you need.........It always makes me laugh when I say "I do welding at work", and people say "oh yeah, I have a little mig in the garage as well".... you would not believe the amount of metallurgy you need to learn to work on anything else than basic steels/alloys!!)
What you are doing is tempering the metal to have the ability to take loads/shocks/ without cracking, as it would if just left dead hard.....
OR........
Just use silver steel without any heat treat, or a drill shank (expensive way to do it) as it is way better than mild steel which has no place in any load bearing situation......(unless it's a rivet
The one fly in the ointment may be how blue takes to the silver steel......I have got some in the garage, when I dig the snow away, I will get it up to the house and try out some birchwood supa blue, and some nickerson pro blue to see if it takes.........TTFN, Ed
Registered User
Thanks for the post.
Keep your head down...
Drill rod is what the Americans call silver steel. You may also come across gauge plate in the UK, the same stuff but is an accurately ground flat stock. They are all names for more or less the same material, oil hardening carbon steel. There are some differences in the actual alloy make up of the steels but anything sold as silver steel, drill rod or gauge plate works well whether you use water or oil for quenching. Oil quenching does leave it a nice blue colour though.
Jef
AKA Porthos, a Piskateer of Renown.
I am a pistaholic, and proud of it
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Ed, can't thank you enough, you're an absolute star! You've explained things better than I could have hoped for and now I should be able to cope with all that, if I take my time. Roughing out with a fine file makes much more sense and the hardening process should be too difficult for me now...and if it goes wrong then I'll just start againDrills are HSS, not tool steel.....and the drill shank is pretty soft.....the ideal would be to go to an engineers suppliers and get some silver steel rod. Then you can make a proper job.....without getting too technical, It really is fairly easy to make a pin that is as good mechanically as an original using silver steel....the "secret" is in what you do when you have got the right shape done......all you do is heat it up to red hot (cherry)...easy on a gas ring/small part and and dip it in salty water, then clean it and get it shiny, and reheat carefully watching the colours change till it is the right one for your purpose, and "stop" it there by quenching again. I know you may think this is high tech, but I was taught this at the age of 12 in metalwork at school (proper lessons then....my O level wood/metal project was crossbow
Honestly, it's something anyone on here can do with a £10 propane torch, or a cooker.........This article may be helpful (he calls silver steel drill rod which is confusing, just ask for silver steel.....loads on line, and it's cheap in the sizes usefull to gun repairs.....ie. £1.68 for 1/4 inch by 13 inch!
Steel supplies;
http://www.engineeringsupplies.co.uk...eel-c-167.html
Useful Linky;
http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/ad...hrish/t-ht.htm
(Bear with the science, the second half is what you need.........It always makes me laugh when I say "I do welding at work", and people say "oh yeah, I have a little mig in the garage as well".... you would not believe the amount of metallurgy you need to learn to work on anything else than basic steels/alloys!!)
What you are doing is tempering the metal to have the ability to take loads/shocks/ without cracking, as it would if just left dead hard.....
OR........
Just use silver steel without any heat treat, or a drill shank (expensive way to do it) as it is way better than mild steel which has no place in any load bearing situation......(unless it's a rivet
The one fly in the ointment may be how blue takes to the silver steel......I have got some in the garage, when I dig the snow away, I will get it up to the house and try out some birchwood supa blue, and some nickerson pro blue to see if it takes.........TTFN, Ed
Many thanks again Ed
P.S. Don't laugh!...I've got to admit that I stupidly assumed all steel tools were made of tool steel!...and HSS referred to what a drill bit could cut, not what it was made of!...but the scariest thing of all...I have got MIG and Arc in the garage too...
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