Cadet restoration advice

[Greenwing]

I've been given a BSA Cadet by a friends father. He said it was last used about forty years ago and he had never opened it up.
The serial number has a B prefix and it has the earlier type stock, fixed via the trigger guard, so I reckon it's from about 1946 - 1947.
I haven't looked inside it yet but I'm assuming the leather piston seal will have dried out by now.
I know these aren't worth much but I'd like to fix it up to use if for a bit of fun with close range targets.
I'm happy to replace the spring if it needs it and try to replace the seals. (I've heard the breech seal is a bugger to do though)

I think the stock's in good condition given it's age, there is a couple of minor dents on the butt and a small chip on the top rearmost corner but from the handgrip forward it's unmarked and is a nice red/brown colour.

The problem I have is what do I do with the finish of the metalwork?

You can still see the BSA etching on the receiver (if you get the light to reflect right) but most of the blueing has gone and there are signs of rust forming on it.
The worst bit is the barrel, the whole surface is quite pitted and there is a nasty rough area of rust underneath, where your thumb would be when cocking it.

What would be the best thing to do with it?

[Gareth W-B]

Give the metalwork a good rub with some fine-thread wire wool and ordinary engine oil. You will be delighted at the results . Atb: G.

[Phil Russell]

.. and make your own piston washer from leather. Advice is available here, do a search.
As for the breech seal, again it is possible to make your own but first try to remove the old one in one piece. If you succeed and it is not damaged, make a thin shim to go underneath it and put it back. The shim can be a bit of aluminium drinks can or, at a push, thin card.
Good luck.... with a bit of thought it should cost you very little to get it going again.
Cheers, Phil

[PaulR]

I was given one with very rusted and pitted metal bits.

As I had nothing to lose I tried cold blueing - here are the results:-

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...old%20Blueing/

[Greenwing]

.. and make your own piston washer from leather. Advice is available here, do a search.
As for the breech seal, again it is possible to make your own but first try to remove the old one in one piece. If you succeed and it is not damaged, make a thin shim to go underneath it and put it back. The shim can be a bit of aluminium drinks can or, at a push, thin card.
Good luck.... with a bit of thought it should cost you very little to get it going again.
Cheers, Phil

Thanks Phil, shimming out the old breech seal is an excellent idea... assuming I can get it out without destroying it.

I was given one with very rusted and pitted metal bits.

As I had nothing to lose I tried cold blueing - here are the results:-

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...old%20Blueing/

Hi Paul, your cold blued parts look really good. Much better than I would have expected.

The thing is a reblued barrel wouldn't look right if I left the receiver alone to preserve the original etching or is it OK to sacrifice the writing to save the rest of it?
I know these don't go for a lot of money but what would people prefer to have from a cheap old rifle, bare metal with the etching still (just) visible or nicely refinished but not original?
I plan on using the thing and not have it solely as an ornament.

[edbear2]

Hi...as Gareth says, oil and very fine (0000 grade) wire wool dipped in oil will work wonders (use a clean cloth/wipe every now and again to remove the "slurry" of oil and rust), and be gentle. Something like Birchwood Casey super blue can be used on the result, ...it will blend the original and exposed surfaces quite well in my experience! (apply over existing blue as well...obviously not around the etching)

The trigger block may well be very stiff to turn, so it may benefit from being submerged in plusgas or diesel until you are ready to start, and also It will be worth knocking up something to fit into the trigger groove to help turn it as they are quite an awkward little blighter to get a purchase on!

[PaulR]

Thanks Phil, shimming out the old breech seal is an excellent idea... assuming I can get it out without destroying it.





Hi Paul, your cold blued parts look really good. Much better than I would have expected.

The thing is a reblued barrel wouldn't look right if I left the receiver alone to preserve the original etching or is it OK to sacrifice the writing to save the rest of it?
I know these don't go for a lot of money but what would people prefer to have from a cheap old rifle, bare metal with the etching still (just) visible or nicely refinished but not original?
I plan on using the thing and not have it solely as an ornament.

Hi - you have a point. The condition of mine was so bad that there was no etching that I could see!!

In the circumstances I decided to at least make it look good. The underside of the action has deep - and I mean deep - rust pits - acne scars if you will. These are hidden as it sits in the stock.TBH I am quite impressed by cold blueing - the secret is degreasing , time after time before applying the chemical.

When I stripped it down the action and trigger were not that bad - they are so basic though. I need a new leather washer - it fell apart as I removed the piston. You know what? - after reading the post above I think I'll have go at making one.

The stock was a disaster - split in at least 3 places and severe water damage- hence the rust on the action. I have tried glueing it back together but it splits when pressure is put on it i.e. screwing the action to it. No worries I'll now go for sunken headed screws to pull it all together.

I've had great fun with this Cadet and continue to do so. It was given to me as an addition to a purchase from here and I am truly grateful. When I have finished it I'll post some pics.

[edbear2]

I was given one with very rusted and pitted metal bits.

As I had nothing to lose I tried cold blueing - here are the results:-

http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...old%20Blueing/

Paul........PM sent regarding your woodwork!

[PaulR]

Thanks edbear2 - that really is appreciated.

Greenwing - with the help we get here (great site) it is worth restoring even the cheapest rifle (Cadet).

For myself I had never really considered doing a restore before but it has been fun and I have learned heaps by experimenting on one that would otherwise have been scrapped.

I have a way to go before I do it properly BUT I think I will try another.

[BEAR1]

Hi there the bluing results look quite good, can you tell me what type you used?

[PaulR]

I used Birchwood Casey Perma Blue paste, and Super Blue liquid. The super blue gives the deeper finish.

As I discovered degreasing is the key to success. I use isopropyl alcohol - bought 5 litres for £13 rather than paying £6 for a few mls if you buy it from a gunshop advertised as degreaser.

I gave it about five or six coats rubbing down with wire wool in between and degreasing three times before applying the next coat. Sounds like a lot of work but isn't really as you don't use much and it is very quick to apply.

[BEAR1]

Thanks for that, very helpful.

[Greenwing]

I took the Cadet apart, was quite amused by how few parts there are.

I have some new leather seals ordered. The breech seal was never going to come out intact and the piston seal was starting to fall to bits, so I'll fit those and see what it's like.
I thought about replacing them with more modern seals but at the moment I kinda want to keep it original.

What kind of power could I expect to get? I'm thinking about 6ft/Ibs.
I don't think I'd want much more than that from this rifle anyway.
Only asking in case I don't prepare the leather seals well enough or there's a problem elsewhere and it's down on power.

I'm going to try cold blueing the smaller parts, trigger guard, stock screws and cocking link.
I'll decide what to do with the barrel and receiver once I see how it shoots.