Inside the Feinwerkbau Model 65

[Cones]

I thought the foresight was gummed up by the rather copious paint job.

The other thing that doesn't help is the notch on the rearsight plate being cut offset!

Had I kept it I was thinking along the lines of getting someone like UKNeil to make an adaptor that fitted in place of the rearsight to take a small red dot sight and shroud the barrel.

Morning.

Yes, the paint was gumming it all up a bit. But after the Nitromors then the hammer marks became a bit more obvious.

I've been soaking it in a penetrating oil and will try warming it up before I try again.

It does look like at some point in its life it had the barrel weight fitted to it. There is a circular mark on the top slide where the barrel inserts.

I did consider a red dot as well, the rear spring mounting hole looks like a good point to fix a bracket to. It could be made a snug fit on the side walls.

If I can get the front sight off, I was thinking some carbon tube might finish off the barrel.


I have now fixed the recoil slide problem, The 'E' clip was turned round and when installing the end shim and other 'E' clip I pushed the locking bar down a little to push against the pin a bit more and this made it easier to fit the parts.
It now locks up perfectly each time.

Thanks

Mark

[Cones]

Before and after the Nitromors.

It actually made a fizzing sound as it ate through the paint.

http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/v..._0832Large.jpg

http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/v..._0952Large.jpg

Mark

[jefL]

Try sticking it in the freezer overnight (preferably when 'er indoors aint lookin'), stick a pan of water on the stove and bring to the boil, pop the foresight in the water for a few seconds and see if you can knock it off with a lump of hardwood or a hide mallet.

It's worked on bike bits in the past.

[Cones]

Try sticking it in the freezer overnight (preferably when 'er indoors aint lookin'), stick a pan of water on the stove and bring to the boil, pop the foresight in the water for a few seconds and see if you can knock it off with a lump of hardwood or a hide mallet.

It's worked on bike bits in the past.

Funny you should say that.

I have tried tonight by poring boiling water over it then clamping it in the vice between two wood blocks.

It won't budge.

I may try and see if I can obtain a new front sight block, because I don't think this one will come off without the use of a hacksaw on it at the moment!

After the struggle with the front sight I removed the rear sight and set about it very carefully with my needle files. The rear notch is now a lot better than it was. I did the top edge on a sheet of wet and dry resting on a glass sheet. It is still at two different levels were it has been welded up. But now the top edge is better than it was as well.

I have now refitted it and blacked it with some soot from a lighter. The sight picture is now half decent.

The grip is an after market one made by Nill http://www.nill-griffe.com/ The bottom screw would not tighten up and tonight I found out why. The nut was on the same side as the screw? So I have removed it and put the nut back on the correct side, now it tightens up properly.

More pictures in a while.

Thanks

Mark

[Cones]

This is now the rear sight with a little careful filing.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2010Large.jpg

Finished for the moment.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2001Large.jpg

A few Targets from Wednesday at the club.

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2012Large.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2013Large.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2014Large.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2015Large.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...p2016Large.jpg


Over the Skan chrono at the club it was doing about 450-460 fps with RWS R10 Match. On the Geco's it was about 30 fps slower with a bit more variance. It seemed to shoot well with either though. I mixed up the targets and cannot remember which was which!

I'll try again this time inside tomorrow with the fixed sights, grip and slide locking mechanism and see if it gets any better.

Thanks

Mark

[Cones]

I was trying to get a better idea of the manufacturing date of this particular model 65.

I found this statement on another forum.

Ulrich Eichstädt

Before 1972, when the first (after-war) german gun law was introduced, it wasn't necessary to number airguns like firearms (some manufacturers did, others didn't). Also the early FWB pistols (before 1972/73) don't carry the "F in pentagram"-sign, which is required now to show that an airgun has less than 7,5 joule muzzle energy (around 5.5 ft/lbs, only in germany).

Although it wasn't really necessary to mark the "F" on air pistols (and air rifles) for export, it is possible that due to the more easy way of manufacturing that all models are marked.

So IF you have a FWB 65 with an F, it was made after 1973 (the year the F-mark was used first, even though it was introduced before)

The quote "RA" in the e-mail's head stands for Rainer Altenburger, the sales manager (and co-owner), who surely knows what he says (but of course he could make mistakes, anyway, too...)




My pistol serial number 30307 does have the F mark shown on it so it could be around 1973-1974 as it is a lowish serial number.

F-Mark
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v..._0830Large.jpg

Serial Number
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v..._0833Large.jpg

Thanks

Mark

[Nikkormat]

I was trying to get a better idea of the manufacturing date of this particular model 65...

Garvin gave me some useful dating info on this thread. There's also a good thread on the AVA forum here.

Please keep us posted on your progress, Mark. Anything FWB related is always worth a read (great website you have there, by the way).

Matt