Airsporter mk2 value pleeese?

[Rickenbacker]

Airsporter1st - Thanks for the tips

I may try 'flossing' the split with white spirit, after wedging it open as you suggest.

If it's important to get a thin coat of PVA in there, I may try to floss that in with a piece of cotton or similar.

Not worried about value now, as I'm going to keep it, and I guess I'll be working on it for ages!

I'll be re-finishing the stock with tru-oil (I have read that all mk1 and mk2 'sporters are walnut, so it should come up nice ) and I'm fairly confident, having good results with finishing a R7 stock ATM.

Your Gamages mk2 looks great!

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inproved - Thanks for that I've just ordered a tube, on your recommendation

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ATB
Phil

[dogsbody]

One that looked in reasonable working order, not a collector's gun but you could just make out part of the photo etching, sold today at an auction in North Wales for £160 if I remember correctly. I thought this was well over the top, bearing in mind you have buyers premium to add on that (usually 20%). The guide price was £70-£100. I thought it might make £80-£90. Maybe I should sell some of my rifles there!
atb
dogsbody

[dogsbody]

I got the hammer price wrong didn't I? That's the trouble with relying on memory when you are the wrong side of 60. Anyway I checked and the hammer price was £170.
atb
dogsbody

[Airsporterman]

Hi,

The advice given by Airsporter 1st sounds right, remember that you can thin this glue considerably by adding water to it so that you can get it into the thinnest of splits, the secret is to use a piece of thick paper to work it into the split, you will have to keep renewing the paper as the glue will soften it, however the glue is cheap enough and the important factor is to get a good but thin coating in there, the other secret with this glue is light but firm pressure - you do not need to put it in a vice!
I have used pvc tape to bind awkward things until they have set!

Value is very much a subjective thing, generallly, a thing is worth what the seller is prepared to accept and the buyer is prepared to pay, that can be greatly varied dependent on various factors, ie, how desperate the seller is for cash etc!

The way I would look at it is, if the buyer is looking to keep the item and is happy with what he paid for it, the value is not that important.
If the rifle is what you wanted, you soon forget the cost!
As I said in my original post, the rifles a keeper - enjoy it!

Seeyalataligata!
Airsporterman
Northumberland (Gods County!)

Kills - 0

Paper targets - 20,000+

[Airsporterman]

Hi,

The advice given by Airsporter 1st sounds right, remember that you can thin this glue considerably by adding water to it so that you can get it into the thinnest of splits, the secret is to use a piece of thick paper to work it into the split, you will have to keep renewing the paper as the glue will soften it, however the glue is cheap enough and the important factor is to get a good but thin coating in there, the other secret with this glue is light but firm pressure - you do not need to put it in a vice!
I have used pvc tape to bind awkward things until they have set!

Value is very much a subjective thing, generallly, a thing is worth what the seller is prepared to accept and the buyer is prepared to pay, that can be greatly varied dependent on various factors, ie, how desperate the seller is for cash etc!

The way I would look at it is, if the buyer is looking to keep the item and is happy with what he paid for it, the value is not that important.
If the rifle is what you wanted, you soon forget the cost!
As I said in my original post, the rifles a keeper - enjoy it!

Seeyalataligata!
Airsporterman
Northumberland (Gods County!)

Kills - 0

Paper targets - 20,000+

[Airsporter1st]

Hi,

the other secret with this glue is light but firm pressure - you do not need to put it in a vice!
I have used pvc tape to bind awkward things until they have set!

You are quite right there - I recall watching New Yankee Workshop, where Norm Abrams said that if you clamp it too tight, you simply squeeze all the glue back out again! Light bit firm pressure seems to perfectly describe what is required.

[Lakey]

You are quite right there - I recall watching New Yankee Workshop, where Norm Abrams said that if you clamp it too tight, you simply squeeze all the glue back out again! Light bit firm pressure seems to perfectly describe what is required.

If you cut car or motorbike inner tube into long thin strips. Then once you have applied the PVA glue wrap the rubber inner tube strips around the stock whilst slightly strtching the strips. You only need a small amount of stretch, then secure the inner tube with tape around the outside. The rubber will provide a medium clamping power around the whole of the joint as it provides pressure in all planes and from all angles.

Once the glue is dry remove the rubber strips and you will have an almost invisible joint.

[Airsporterman]

If you cut car or motorbike inner tube into long thin strips. Then once you have applied the PVA glue wrap the rubber inner tube strips around the stock whilst slightly strtching the strips. You only need a small amount of stretch, then secure the inner tube with tape around the outside. The rubber will provide a medium clamping power around the whole of the joint as it provides pressure in all planes and from all angles.

Once the glue is dry remove the rubber strips and you will have an almost invisible joint.

Like it, sounds like a good idea - may try this one out sometime! I may try using old inner tubes from my mountain bike that I have patched more than a few times!

Regards,
Airsporterman