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Thread: Been given a WEBLEY TEMPEST a few questions etc.

  1. #1
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    Been given a WEBLEY TEMPEST a few questions etc.

    Just received a Tempest in .22 via a friend of my wife.

    In mint condition the type on it says WEBLEY TEMPEST underneath WEBLEY & SCOTT MADE IN ENGLAND also has x2 F signs on it. The box is a plain brown one with the trigger adjust allen key, box a little tatty but polystyrene part fine also instruction sheet.

    I have owned a Tempest in the past always regretted selling it, used it as a part payment for my .44 Remington B/P pistol. My old one again was in .22, I bought it in the early eighties.

    Now regarding oiling it, I have got some Weboil the instructions appear to indicate a couple of drops via the rubber joint washer. I don't recall ever doing this this with my old one. All other areas oiled as per instructions, Its got a nice kick and power seems better than my old one - went right through an old *unMart no problem at ten feet.

    As you can't get 5.56 pellets now i.e. Wasps or you can but quality suspect what are you guy's using?

    No intention of selling this, but out of interest what is it worth? And roughly what age is it? No serial numbers so I guess difficult to age it. Don't think my old one had a serial number either.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
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    Personally, I'd oil it through the cocking slot rather than through the breech seal to minimize desielling. Try and get a couple of drops on the piston lands, should do the trick.
    Webley Vulcan .22, Webley Tempest .177, Beeman Kodiak .25, Beeman R9 .177, Weihrauch HW30 .177, Slavia 618 .177, Colt Commander .45ACP, Browning Hi-Power 9mm, Bushmaster AR-15 5.56/.223

  3. #3
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    Do your darned best to avoid rubbing the white "Webley Tempest" lettering off the forend shroud. Once it's gone, it's gone (and your pistol is worth half price).

    Other than that if mint or close to, later type cardboard boxed and with all accessories, £110 is realistic.
    **WANTED**: WEBLEY PATRIOT MUZZLE END; Any Diana/Original mod.50 parts, especially OPEN SIGHTS

  4. #4
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    I would not use oil anywhere. Strip and clean/degrease the pistol then use a very light smear of LT2 on the piston/seal sides and rear surface, inside the piston/spring contact area and the moving parts of the linkage.
    Max; looking for: Baikal IZH 61 side lever rifle

  5. #5
    Gareth W-B's Avatar
    Gareth W-B is offline Retired Mod & Airgun Anorak Extraordinaire
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    Quote Originally Posted by felix gunner View Post
    I would not use oil anywhere. Strip and clean/degrease the pistol then use a very light smear of LT2 on the piston/seal sides and rear surface, inside the piston/spring contact area and the moving parts of the linkage.
    Ditto, although I may be a bit more generous with the smearing of the grease than Max, but that is a personal thing.
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  6. #6
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    Yep, hard to quantify as one person's 'smear' can be another persons 'dollop'!
    Max; looking for: Baikal IZH 61 side lever rifle

  7. #7
    Gareth W-B's Avatar
    Gareth W-B is offline Retired Mod & Airgun Anorak Extraordinaire
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    Quote Originally Posted by felix gunner View Post
    Yep, hard to quantify as one person's 'smear' can be another persons 'dollop'!
    ...... and I do like a good dollop, me.
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  8. #8
    ggggr's Avatar
    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
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    Wink Tempest oiling

    We are all different. I would strip and clean it,remove any obvious burrs etc and then use a very small amount of gn paste or a dry slide like thing on the cylinder,inside and out of the piston, guide and mainspring, a drop of Sm 50 on the cylinder before replacing the piston and a bit of LT2 on the mainspring. I usually use an old tooth brush to scrub this onto the spring as I have seen guns dripping with the stuff. After that I would just use a Sm50 every so often (not very).
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ggggr View Post
    We are all different. I would strip and clean it,remove any obvious burrs etc and then use a very small amount of gn paste or a dry slide like thing on the cylinder,inside and out of the piston, guide and mainspring, a drop of Sm 50 on the cylinder before replacing the piston and a bit of LT2 on the mainspring. I usually use an old tooth brush to scrub this onto the spring as I have seen guns dripping with the stuff. After that I would just use a Sm50 every so often (not very).
    I wouldn't. If it works well let it be. The problem with these Webleys is they way they were built. Basically, the roll pins through the plastic of the forend, apart from other places. It is easy to mangle the plastic rather than push the pin out, if one is heavy handed. Or in other places damage the (unreplaceable) paint finish. Similarly, a bit of misalignment on the assembly, and you could potentially even crack the plastic completely. Not to mention that it's fiddly to retain the gun safely while banging away at a punch, aiming at a roll pin that is barely 2mm in diameter. A recipe for possible disaster of the misplaced hammer swipe kind... Not impossible of course but it's something that I'd not wish the average DIY bodger to undertake.

    Aside, one place I'd look when buying one of these, is at the roll pins. If the gun has been taken apart, there is no hiding this fact, the ends are usually mangled. Bye bye mint. A compltely untouched one has got to be worth more.

    Truly, these guns were not desiged to be taken apart at all frequently, and, since they are springers capable of shooting well close to forever - why bother? It's not like we have an FT air rifle that we want to run 11.9 ft/lbs with a 3fps spread. Who cares? It hits the tin cans, it's mint out of the box, end of. IMHO.
    **WANTED**: WEBLEY PATRIOT MUZZLE END; Any Diana/Original mod.50 parts, especially OPEN SIGHTS

  10. #10
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    To be honest I'm coming from the Senior/Premier full metal/blued angle (ie no plastic) - these guns were unbelievably beautifully made, are a sheer joy to strip in about 5 minutes (carefully with good screwdrivers) and re-assemble without leaving a trace of having been disturbed.

    I did a Premier just yesterday and I still find it hard to believe how Webely made them to the same standard as a precision firearm for the money.
    Max; looking for: Baikal IZH 61 side lever rifle

  11. #11
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    As its working fine I'm leaving well alone. Fearful of scuffing the name on the side and duffing up those pins. Later on in its life then I'll give it a strip down etc...

    Ah its nice to have a Tempest again. Thinking a nice set of wood grips mmmh, as I'm left handed would be good.

  12. #12
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    Well shot it down at my club sights needed moving up a fair bit now SLIGHT half moon showing 10m point of aim. Bit of smoke when using .22 Hobby's, but fine with old WASPS 5.56.

  13. #13
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    Leave it as is for a good few years as air-tech said. The cocking/barrel just want to go red with rust. So do clean/oil that every time.

    I have one in each calibre, brown box, and think they are one of the best plinking pistols ever made. Both of mine shoot off to one side beyond sight adjustments; some don't. I think its a spring thing that twists in the hand; so might get better with age once shot a bit.

    They don't stay mint long but well worth doing ones best.

    Love mine.

  14. #14
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    To Airgunner.177 RE: TEMPEST GRIPS

    Cheers Andy, I have replied to you but your message box is full.

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