Rabbitstopper 2260 Help Please

[BobSpoons]

Hi,
Im a newbie here and would please like to ask advice on my rifle problem.

Ive seen all the bad press on my rifle but still like it (Ducks to avoid thrown fruit) and it would be great if I could fix it.

I put a co2 bulb in and everything is fine. I fire the first shot and after that there is a slow steady leak of co2. It sounds to be coming out of the valve assembly and into the breech.

Ive had it suggested it could be the valve end seal (From a too tightened bulb) or the valve stem assembly with seal.

The first seal is about £2 and the stem about £11 from Chambers gunmakers site.
My local gun shop said they could send it away to the uk distributers for fixing and guessed about £20-£30 (I think they just tought it was the inexpensive seals though)

Ive nearly had the valve assembly out to look at it but couldnt, it was a tight fit.
Is there something in the hole where it goes into the breech that stops it from moving? The breech gasket and seal dident look to actually pass into the valve on the parts digram but I could be wrong. If so do I have to take the barrel off to get the valve assembly out?

Also, it was suggested that the cause could be because ive left the rifle to stand for about 3 years (No powerlet in it) due to various reasons and that this could be the cause.
That worries me I could have the same situation in another few years if i dont shoot really regularly.

The gun was brand new 3 years ago too.

Sorry this is such a long first post.

Thanks to anyone who reads or responds to the post.

The site looks great, Im looking forward to fun here.
Cheers

Alex (BobSpoons)

PS - I also asked this question on the crosman bbs but thought id try and get as much info as possible, in case anyone is on both boards.

[Dirty-Harry]

Does the leakage stop if you recock the hammer?
Either way try a 'squirt' of synthetic oil or grease on:

The valve

The powerlet seal

The top of the powerlet

The sides of the hammer.

[BobSpoons]

Hi

No it doesnt stop if i recock the hammer once the first shot is taken it carries on untill bulb is empty.

I tried a drop of oil on the end of the bulb and that didnt work (Though the escaping co2 did seem to take some oil up into the breech with it)

Ill give the valve a try.

Just out of interest, how could the oil on the hammer affect it?

Thanks for your reply and suggestions.

Cheers

Alex

[Dirty-Harry]

If the problem had been cured by recocking then it would be a sign that the hammer was possibly holding the valve open.
Even if it doesn't, it's still a good idea to have a small amount of lubrication on the hammer to let it maintain the momentum it needs to knock the valve open efficiently.

In your case the odds are that one or more seals have dried out so a thin film of oil, or preferably grease would refurbish them. I always carry a can of spray synthetic grease in my gun bag and use it on all my guns (as below ....)

[Sniper 296]

Shame you live far away, I would of said pop it round and I'll have a look at it with you!

[ora8i]

They are simple guns, the best thing to do is just get it in bits. It sounds like the exhaust port seal, it’s inside the valve, and as a little oil did not fix it will have to be striped. It’s not difficult and while you have it in bits you may as well do the transfer port mods and the trigger mods .

http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/CFTech.htm

You can learn a lot a bout precharged guns working on these.


Regards Ora

[BobSpoons]

Dirty Harry -

Thanks I see what you mean about the hammer. Ill open it up and have a look. I hope the grease/oil will mean I dont have to spend money ( )
I have some gun oil from solv-it that was sold to me for my air rifle by a shop, it doesnt say if its synthetic or not. It says "Will not harm wood or plastic"
I also have some ceramic grease for radio controlled cars (Waits for people to shout) and not sure if thats synthetic. Any ideas please?

sniper296 -

Thanks for that offer its really nice. Shame I am a good distance but I appreciate the offer.

ora8i -

Thanks, wow a lot of info and some work there too.
Ill probably try and sort one thing at a time as if I dont I wont know which bit iI messed up on
Ill definately bear those mods in mind for future though.
I also like the sound of the metal breech.
Shame its all not cheaper.


Thanks folks im really appreciating the feedback and suggestions. Im fairly competant with fixing things (Though not with spelling) but know nothing about the internals of my air rifles so its all appreciated a lot.

Cheers

Alex

[ora8i]

If you decide to but bits it's cheaper to buy themfrom Jim at

www.crookedbarn.com than to mess about in the UK.

If you order all the bits you need in one go it saves postage.


Ora

[BobSpoons]

Thanks Ora8i

Cant find catalogue pages on the site so ill email them for a quote for various bits.

Are they ok with posting to uk from us?

Have you done this before and if so, about how long does the shipping take?

Thanks again

Alex

[ora8i]

I bought all my "bits" from them, shipping wasn't much longer than it would be in the UK.

Ora

[BobSpoons]

Thanks Ora

Im going to try some oil on the various parts of the valve assembly and if it doesnt work ill send off for some bits.

Any ides If I can use any of the following for oil? :
I have some gun oil from solv-it that was sold to me for my air rifle by a shop, it doesnt say if its synthetic or not. It says "Will not harm wood or plastic"
I also have some ceramic grease for radio controlled cars (Waits for people to shout) and not sure if thats synthetic. Any ideas please?

Cheers yet again

Ive had so much help on this board and the crosman one. They deserve very high praise.

Alex


PS (A Short while later)

Ive got the valve assembly out but cant get the cap off.

Is there some secret to this? *grin*

It seems really tight and theres nothing to grip onto. Pliers might damage it (& not work)

Any thoughts nice people?

grovel grovel

Alex

[ora8i]

Theonly bit that you must NOt mark is the area around the transfer port, if you do it will be harder to seal it.

Put the small screw back into the brass valve mount the valve in a vice so the the screw head stops it turning. Using a strap wrench (preferably) simply unscrew the other end. Use grips if you have to, Crosman use thread locker on the valve thats probably why it's stiff.

Dont bend the screw it's an odd size + harder to replace.


Ora

[BobSpoons]

Great

Thanks

All has been apart and oiled.

Ive put the valve assembly back in and left it like that (No point in fully re-assembling the rifle in case I need to buy new bits.

How long should I leave it to see if the seals have absorbed oil and have fixed themselves?

Can I put a co2 bulb in now or is it best to leave it overnight?

Thanks

Alex

[ora8i]

The seals are plastic, probably urethane, so they don’t really absorb the oil. The oil just helps them to seal. So before you try wipe them down so that all that is left is enough oil to make them shiny. Inspect them to make sure that they are not damaged it they are they will have to be replaced.

Check the inside of the valve look at the places were the seals press against the brass and make sure they are clean and smooth before you re-assemble the valve.

Keeping things clean is very important inside Co2 or PCP guns even a hair could get into the seal and cause a leak – so keep it clean!!

When you get the valve back in the next issue is making sure the transfer port, the bit that fits between the valve outlet and the hole in the side of the barrel, is in place and the right way up. That’s about it really, test it if it holds pressure your done, if it doesn’t then start replacing parts.

Regards Ora

[BobSpoons]

Thank you very much.

Im going to try now and see if it holds pressure and if not, ill replace the valve assembly or individual seals.

The help and advice has been invaluable.

Thanks everyone.

Alex