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Thread: Martini Henry shooting fadvise

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Martini Henry shooting fadvise

    Hi thanks to members who gave me advise for variation for Martini Henry 450/577 which has been sent. But before i make some rounds and rush to the range with it is there anything in particular i should look for from a safety aspect with a rifle over 130 years old. I have been shooting for a number of years and to my eye rifle looks good to go but just wonder if there are any certain weak points or areas that should have special attention before i fire a rifle that as not been fired for probably a 100 years ?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Warfield, Berkshire U.K.
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    4,501
    Hiya

    Give SWIDDS a shout on here - he started loading for one a week ago !

    Roy

    .

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    leeds, west yorkshire
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    12,957
    slug the barrel unless its a mk4

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Gillingham, Dorset
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    601

    MH

    Hello mate!

    Here's what I'd advise...

    1) Get yourself a trusted seller/individual opinion - I'm lucky enough to know John who is an expert on all things BP and runs kings shilling antiques up at Bisley within GE fultons and sons. I very nearly bought a lovely looking MH from someone else, but he checked it over for me and the bore was shagged (looked good to me?!). Yes, ended up buying an MH from him, but its got the military history and is in great condition. Moral of the story? find someone who really knows about MH's or even take a shooting mate along with you so you don't see everything through rose tinted glasses...

    2) Most MH's I looked at had pitting and rust marks of some description. No surprise, they are over 100 years old!. Most vulnerable area seems to be around the end of the barrel at the muzzle. If its excessive (deep pits) I'd suggest you avoid. No matter how good it looks, take the wood fore grip off and have a look at the underside. I looked at one rifle which appeared to be mint, took the fore-grip off to reveal deep pitted rust marks in the barrel where the water must of got in under the wood and rotted it!.

    3) Take a bit of plain white paper and fold it down the middle. Open the breech, check its not loaded (naturally! ) and place the v of the paper in the breech so the point sits below the breech opening. Now, hold the rifle by the barrel and look down the barrel from the muzzle end. The paper should reflect enough light down it for you to get a good look. Your looking for minimal pitting, very little to no rust and most importantly, for nice "sharp" rifling. Now, how to describe this... look at the "swirl" of the rifling and in the centre of the rifling swirl you should see a triangular ridge running in the middle. Its this triangular ridge that needs to look sharp, if its flat or rounded, its a knackered barrel. I only looked at Mk4's so this might be different in earlier models?

    4) The history - I love military rifles so like mine to have a good bit of history. My MK4 MH is from the Napal cache. Loads of markings, history, shoots and looks great!. Other people feel the same way about these rifles so try to find something with some history, it will keep the retail value and make more money should you sell it in the long term.

    5) The expense - Shooting the MH is not cheap. The brass alone is hardish to find and costs a bloody fortune. You'll also need a lead melter, mould, etc. Buying a gun may cost 500 - 800 quid, but factor in another 200 quid for all the bits your going to need to fire it.

    6) Found the MH of your dreams? - shot it. See 1), John let me try two rifles and chose the one I preferred. Without this being a huge plug (which it is), have a look at his stock on the Fultons and Son's website. Also, Andy at allwood stocks is a top bloke and may be able to help you source a good gun (sorry admins, hope this is ok in the BBS rules! just saying from experience)

    7) Look out for Kiber pass MH copies, etc at antique fairs, etc. Get familiar with how to spot one and avoid (Enfield not stamped properly, etc).

    8) Mk1-3's command the most money, but Mk4's were the MH at its best (in my opinion). What do you need? a real shooter with history at a good price (the Mk4 or a period piece at a huge price that shoots well?.

    9) Patching bullets, etc - there is so much info on the web about what you should and shouldn't do loading these rounds I got completely confused about how to load the MH rounds. In the end, the most simple loading technique seemed to be the best! (see previous post in the BP forum).

    Hope this helps mate and I'm not teaching you to "suck eggs"!

    All in all? buy it, make your rounds and shot it. You'll LOVE IT!

    Some ace websites -

    http://www.martinihenry.com/
    http://www.svartkrutt.net/articles/vis.php?id=12
    http://www.henrykrank.com/

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Gillingham, Dorset
    Posts
    601

    Sorry mate

    Got a bit carried away there and should have read your post more closely, oh well hopefully something useful in that lot!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    caddington
    Posts
    175
    Has it been checked by a competent gunsmith? (yes John at Kings Shillings is your man).
    Has it been proofed?
    All the previous post makes good sense..
    Is the action lock up tight?
    Have the fore end off and check for rust/weak points on underside of barrel.
    Basically let John give it the once over.
    He will also be able to supply you with all the re-loading components you will need.(at a price!?
    Enjoy.
    Regards JOHN

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Gloucestershire
    Posts
    56
    Hi Thanks for all the advise especially swidds, I think i will wait until my next trip to Bisley before doing anything i don't want to rush into things and go off half cocked

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Gillingham, Dorset
    Posts
    601

    Next trip ...

    ..to Bisley, let us know when your going Ferrit, be great to shot the MH's together if your up for that?. Harry, you've got some BP rifles as well haven't you?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Warfield, Berkshire U.K.
    Posts
    4,501
    Hiya

    I have a 3 band Enfield - that due to the fact I get no spare time to play & develop with it - I feel that I don't shoot it that well ...

    I do really enjoy shooting it though

    Always amuses me to have to wash your hands BEFORE going to the loo on a BP day

    Hee heee !!!!


    At the moment any spare range time I have (after running around after the Club !) is spent on gallery rifles/ammo etc

    Next thing on my list is doing more with my AR - then in the summer - maybe get a few weekday shoots @ Bisley with the Enfield


    I'd like to see the MH at some point - as my thoughts are turning to renewal time in November & whether or not to add one on the ticket !!

    So your learned advice will be greatly appreciated !!


    Roy
    .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Kingswood. Bristol
    Posts
    37
    Quote Originally Posted by ferrit View Post
    Hi thanks to members who gave me advise for variation for Martini Henry 450/577 which has been sent. But before i make some rounds and rush to the range with it is there anything in particular i should look for from a safety aspect with a rifle over 130 years old. I have been shooting for a number of years and to my eye rifle looks good to go but just wonder if there are any certain weak points or areas that should have special attention before i fire a rifle that as not been fired for probably a 100 years ?

    Martini barrels are well over engineered so minor pittingshould be no problem. measure the outside and take 468 away from that, divideby 2 and that’s the thickness of metal, most martinis have very shallow pittingusually less than the depth of all the proof marks stamped in to it. The mainpressure bearing area is the breach end of the barrel on ignition from then onthe pressure drops as the powder is burnt and the bullet moves out the way.Also unless you really want to beat yourself up then 65 grains of powder willeasily shoot out to 100 yards and beyond. the standard 85 grain military loadis just painful after a while and some commercial big game loads with 100grains of powder are for the sadists amongst you. My opinion on the condition is from having 1Martini that I shoot and 4 martinis all of which I would shoot if they were onticked, Hope this is of some help

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Waltham Cross, Cheshunt (now)
    Posts
    286
    I would get it reproofed( I did) so you know it is safe to shoot and be on the safe side.

    Ajay

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    London
    Posts
    747
    Quote Originally Posted by sniper3 View Post
    I would get it reproofed( I did) so you know it is safe to shoot and be on the safe side.
    Re-proof is probably the best advice. And if you don't want modern proof marks on your antique, ask for a certificate of proof in lieu of marks. I had a couple of vintage Japanese rifles proofed this way some years ago.
    I collect vintage Japanese air rifles & vintage Japanese pellets
    Information sought about antique firearms with Japanese markings, do you have one ?

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