Mk 5 Meteor cocking arm problem/cure?

[ggggr]

I have just got 3 1/2 Mk 5 Meteor cadet rifles. They were in fairly abused condition in that they had broken and just been put in a box many years ago. Two had seized barrel plungers and seized pistons. One had a broken trigger and was cocked (but no pellet in the barrel). The problem is that the undersides of the cylinder seems to be getting caught by the cocking arms and starting to grind-------YES,LIKE A RELUM. sure somebody put up a post about this in the last few weeks but would no know where to look. So has anybody cured this without welding?
I was thinking of just lightly filing the cylinder to clean it up and then gluing something onto the top of the cocking arm. I dont know whether to fill the grooves on the cylinder with epoxy or similar.
I reckon the proper "cure" is a one piece cocking arm and a mk4 stock. Another thing I noticed was that all the guns had that rubbing piece in the stock either missing or perished. I found some thing to sort that out. Thanks chaps

[watchsapart]

Anybody know please? I have same issue

[edbear2]

Hi Guy, I am sure I read something by BTDT (Jim) in maybe Airgun Sport where he put some ptfe block somewhere.......It may have been on a Haenel thinking about it........Anyway, looking at a chamber's diagram, I see the cocking arm is articulated in the same way as a Haenel, so it must be possible to get something to protect the cylinder surely?

Without seeing one (which I don't want to!).....looking at the diagram, maybe a oblong length of ptfe with a slot in, bonded / riveted to the cocking arm to bear on the cylinder?????

[ggggr]

Hi Guy, I am sure I read something by BTDT (Jim) in maybe Airgun Sport where he put some ptfe block somewhere.......It may have been on a Haenel thinking about it........Anyway, looking at a chamber's diagram, I see the cocking arm is articulated in the same way as a Haenel, so it must be possible to get something to protect the cylinder surely?

Without seeing one (which I don't want to!).....looking at the diagram, maybe a oblong length of ptfe with a slot in, bonded / riveted to the cocking arm to bear on the cylinder?????

Thanks Ed. I have been trying some bearing material Red Bob sent me (which I have used to replace the stuff in the stock),nylon out of a can opener and the stuff out of a broken cocking arm. The problem is getting it thin because the stuff in the stock pushes the arm up and if you put something on top of the arm it pushes it away from the cylinder. This added thickness makes it a bit harder to get the action in the stock. I cant understand why the plastic stuff that Bsa put in cocking arm does not come above the metal arms. I prefer a one piece cocking arm. I suppose making holes in the Bsa cocking arm and dropping a bit of nylon or ptfe in them might help. The ones done seem to be ok for now but I dont know how long it will last for. Even Relum went over to a one piece cocking arm!