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Thread: 10m Rifle Sight elements.

  1. #1
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    10m Rifle Sight elements.

    This might seem a bit silly but I have started shooting 10m rifle for more practice in the standers. Using the club's S200T, a bit small but it works.

    My question is regarding the sight elements and the 'picture' you should see. I realise that the rear element and foresight element should be concentric circles. The problem I am finding, and some other members, there is a lot of the target white between the inside foresight element and black scoring circle.

    Is there any links to allow me and others to get the rifle set up correctly. I currently spray the pelelts all over the place (2 in 5 in the black )
    infensus procul vox locus procul nefas vicis
    I aimed at the right place at the wrong time.

  2. #2
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    UK Neil makes acrylic foresight elements in sets which would allow you to find a size you are comfortable with.

    Or try here, these look like Neil may make them. You would need to check which is compatible with your S200's foresight, I would think they use a generic tunnel sight so this shouldn't be an issue.

    Measure the diameter of the hole in the element you are having trouble with to ensure any replacement sets are likely to prove suitable.

    Alternatively seek out either an individual metal element (if you can determine which size you need), or set of such.

    Metal, acrylic and adjustable options from Intershoot. Here.

  3. #3
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    Sighting and foresight elements have been discussed here and here.

    The main points to bear in mind are:

    a. Check Natural Point of Aim (NPA) for every shot. i.e. Get into position without looking through sights. Look through sights and confirm that aiming mark is in foresight. If it isn't put rifle down, adjust position and try again until NPA is correct.
    b. When aiming all movement should be contained within the foresight ring.
    c. Too large a foresight is much better than one that is too small.
    d. Focus on the foresight, not the aiming mark.

    Hope that this helps,

    Rutty
    Last edited by Rutty; 21-06-2011 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Correction of link

  4. #4
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    As a training aid they do make a target card which has one diagram the same size as a normal diagram and 4 more which are 2 smaller than the normal and two larger than the normal,you put a group of shots on each and by looking at the group can decide which is best suited element size for you to shoot with, I am at the range tomorrow and will try to find out the card number and name of them for you
    Martini
    Good Deals with Mikewaring, ggggr, watchsapart, Majex45, Nhill, zebedee71,Eredel,Hawksthorn,Red Bob, Stanbridge,Barrow_Matt,Mr.Fixit-Norm, turbo33 .atb thankyou all Neil

  5. #5
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    Sizing your foresight elements

    This is the card I was talking about,one I used at a coaching session
    http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/z...s/scan0006.jpg
    Kind Regards Martini
    Good Deals with Mikewaring, ggggr, watchsapart, Majex45, Nhill, zebedee71,Eredel,Hawksthorn,Red Bob, Stanbridge,Barrow_Matt,Mr.Fixit-Norm, turbo33 .atb thankyou all Neil

  6. #6
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    As a training aid they do make a target card which has one diagram the same size as a normal diagram and 4 more which are 2 smaller than the normal and two larger than the normal,you put a group of shots on each and by looking at the group can decide which is best suited element size for you to shoot with,
    That demonstration aid is alright for prone, but for standing the primary criterion is that all the shooter's movement during the aiming phase is contained within the foresight. An essential prerequisite is establishing a NPA centered on the target in order to accurately assess the degree of movement. The other problem when you employ a larger than normal aiming mark for standing is the tendency to focus on the target and not on the foresight.

    If you want to demonstrate the effect of changing foresight aperture size on the resultant group it is best to do it with a variable foresight using the target you normally shoot at.

    Rutty

  7. #7
    RobinC's Avatar
    RobinC is offline Awesome Shooting Coach and Author.
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    Rutty's advice is spot, spraying about is almost certainly a technique issue not too big a foresight, I almost don't think you can have too big a foresight if you are shooting under 90 average. I often get beginners to start with no foresight to take the concentration away from over correcting and chasing the aiming mark.
    Standing shooting is easy! Two simple things to learn.
    1. Ignore the target or score, learn and get a stable unstressed position to shoot from.
    2. Only when you have achieved 1 then adjust that position so that it naturaly points to the middle of the target.
    OK I lied! its not easy, but those basic principles are the foundation a good coach would start from.
    Good shooting,
    Robin
    Walther KK500 Alutec expert special - Barnard .223 "wilde" in a Walther KK500 Alutec stock, mmm...tasty!! - Keppeler 6 mmBR with Walther grip and wood! I may be a Walther-phile?

  8. #8
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    andyiow,

    Was any of the above any use? Did you get it sorted out ok?

  9. #9
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    I messed around with elemants for an age. would never trust the elemant. then I bought a Centra variable elemant with variable width. now I hardly ever alter it (except at the Lord Roberts Centre which seems to have a smaller aiming mark and a brighter light than most ranges) just goes to show foresights are just one of the things we "twiddlers" can never leave alone.


    I am now however, cured and have moved on to playing with my cheekpiece adjustment.

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