Reply With QuoteI always drill and peg or put a stainless or brass bolt/screw in as well as glueing cracks, that way it is closed up tight and can't reopen. Where is the crack?
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Hi lads, can anyone please advise a good glue to repair a crack in vintage air rifle stock, the wood is walnut, and i have treid to get most of the oil from the stock out, just need a good glue now to hold crack, thanks tim,
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
I always drill and peg or put a stainless or brass bolt/screw in as well as glueing cracks, that way it is closed up tight and can't reopen. Where is the crack?
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Hi matey, the crack is on the bottom of the pistol grip, two cracks about 1/4" deep and about 2" long up the grip.
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`CASCAMITE` wood glue is what the trade use, but I don`t know where you would obtain it.
pp
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Evo stik waterproof pva adhesive is as good as any easy to obtain ready to use and bought from most if not all DIY SHOPS Its what i use .
Just make sure any surplus is wiped off witjh a damp cloth before it sets .
Cascamite is good too but is bought in a powder and mixed with water and only good woodworkers shops sell it.
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Most good quality wood or carpenters glue would be fine. Cascamite is great but requires mixing and a little skill to get just the right consistency and can go off very quickly if you're not careful.
The real challenge is going to be getting the glue deep into the cracks (an old syringe might help) and making sure that pressure is applied consistently. When I was a cabinet maker and old saying was the 'excess glue should come out of all areas of the joint' (once pressure is applied). Make sure you wipe off 'all' excess, it's much easier to do while wet (clean damp cloth).
If you need to clamp (ideal) with awkward shapes, I use a strap or chair clamp. It's a band that can be tightened up, similar to a strap you would use to tie down an awkward load on the back of a pickup etc. When putting frames together we would just make one of these with strong string using a good not. Either way with awkward shapes you need to be a little inventive.
Good luck..!
All the best, Roy.
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The reason cascamite is difficult to obtain is because it is now old hat. I used it many years ago as an apprentice and although it was OK in its time it is no where near as good as modern PVA glue. But even PVA will not stick wood which has been treated with oil, so if it is an oiled stock you need some way of first removing the oil, either some form of heat or solvent. Once the wood is clean and dry use plenty PVA and if possible some form of clamp to keep everything tight until the glue sets, usually 24 hours, though it may go on curing for another day or two. Cascamite is only one step up from animal glue and quite a few steps behind PVA.Originally Posted by flatrajectory
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I use Gorilla Glue. I saw it recommended on one of the Gunboards forums a few year's ago. It's activated by water, expands whilst curing and is very strong if clamped correctly. It sticks to almost anything. Make sure you have a safe working method and environment as it can be dangerous if not used carefully.
I collect vintage Japanese air rifles & vintage Japanese pellets
Information sought about antique firearms with Japanese markings, do you have one ?
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Thanka lads for all the info, big help, tim,
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Keep in mind that if you clamp it too tight, you'll squeeze all the glue out of the crack - tip courtesy of Norm Abrams, New Yankee Workshop.
Happy Shooting!! Paul.
"We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.
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hi tim ,i have repaired quite a few stocks both professionally and for myself.all the advice given by previous posters is sound,but this is how i repair cracks in all stocks including centrefire and shotgun stocks.. ..i heat a tube of superglue in hot water,open the crack a little and dribble the superglue into the crack[s],this will penetrate the deepest reccesses of the crack, then clamp the crack shut and leave for 24 hrs.if the crack is oil free this will be the strongest part of the stock from now on..i recently repaired a crack in the stock of my 45/70 wild boar gun that produces over 3000 fpe ..its holding up well.....cheers..greasemonkey
Last edited by greasemonkey; 26-08-2011 at 10:50 PM.
more guns than you can shake a stick at!
Everything has an end, only the sausage has two
Are you able to clamp the cracks to close them once the glue is in?
Aliphatic resin is very good and very strong. There is a thinner version called Superphatic resin which is specifically designed to flow into very thin cracks and joints. I've used it on a HW90 stock, it did a brilliant job. If the cracks are pretty thin I would recommend this. Work it well into the crack, clamp it up and leave to dry. You should be able to get it from model/craft shops, or online.
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I was going to recommend titebond 5063, but on looking at the spec it IS Aliphatic resin
Anyway, great stuff, and this stuff is supposed to be even better.
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Thanks again lads, Tim,
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pin drill the end of the cracks to stop them spreading as above use a resin or cascamite
cascamite may be old hat but it still does the job well if your not in a rush
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