BSA light pattern info/expertise please

[nogsk]

Right, stripped and cleaned the LP rescued from the scrapyard.

Have managed to get a trigger block, but still need piston seal and screw plus mainspring.

What I really need, never having 'done' a BSA before, is a schematic or parts drawing so I can actually see what I need to be finding/scrounging/ordering.

Otherwise I'm stumped.

[Prewar]

Hi Nigel,
there is a diagram for an earlier version here: http://www.gunspares.co.uk/shopdispl...proved+Model+D
Have a look at Garvin's site here for loads of info, including how to make your own piston washers: http://www.network54.com/Index/105071

[watchsapart]

I might know somebody with these bits secondhand, let me know if you are stuck and I will ask them ... Paul

[nogsk]

Garvin/BSA sight looks very helpful - Thanks

[nogsk]

Well, that's not so bad, just need:

Trigger guard, trigger spring, plunger and plunger screw.
Trigger adjustment screw.
Link axis screw.
Mainspring.
Piston seal and screw.
Bolt and washer to connect trigger block to cylinder.

Sort of hardly anything really.... .....

Any of you got any rusty old tins with these sort of bits in?

If not it's off to JK and credit card damage.

[nogsk]

Well, 2nd hand parts appear to be thin on the ground, and new parts male it an uneconomical repair.

So, looks as if I'll have to sell on that site as I have no idea what the parts are worth.

Shame to break it though, so I may try it in swaps for a few days as I'm after a HW40 pistol.

Any other suggestions?

[edbear2]

Well, 2nd hand parts appear to be thin on the ground, and new parts male it an uneconomical repair.

So, looks as if I'll have to sell on that site as I have no idea what the parts are worth.

Shame to break it though, so I may try it in swaps for a few days as I'm after a HW40 pistol.

Any other suggestions?

HI, even second hand the bits you list tot up to maybe £35-40+ at the very minimum.......If you are in no rush they will slowly appear, either on here, or on that auction site where sometimes a bargain can be had.

So it depends on how long you are prepared to wait.......I looked for 2 years for a good safety sear trigger assembly for a gun I had a while back before I got one!

As you say, it seems a shame to break it, but at least it is incomplete and not like some of the nice guns that have met this fate recently........If you do break it, think of it like being an organ doner, you gun will maybe bring 3-4 others back to life

[queens_own]

Hi,
I too have a light pattern 1923 BSA, Ser 20371, and a second batch 1906 BSA, Ser 3096,
I need front sight and rear sight leaf, plus a new sear screw for the light, but I would also like to know the best way to correct a fault that some addle headed previous owner did to it...he decided to dot punch the dovetails to hold the sights and underlever catch in, how best to deal with these indents??? any ideas Ken
For parts try contacting the following.....
Contact: Mr. John Knibbs Phone: 01675 481 006
Address: Hillside 0121 782 3391
Shawbury Lane Fax: 01675 481 984
Shustoke View Website
Warwickshire Send Email
B46 2RR
United Kingdom

[edbear2]

"I would also like to know the best way to correct a fault that some addle headed previous owner did to it...he decided to dot punch the dovetails to hold the sights and underlever catch in, how best to deal with these indents??? any ideas"

Hi Ken........If the marks are centre punch, and really deep.......find a local welding company that does TIG, and you should be able to get these filled for the price of a pint...(obviously you will need to file the tiny pips of weld down).

To colour match the area may be difficult however depending on how your gun looks now, they will blue / brown ok, but will take time to blend in.

If not deep, a gentle light repeated tapping with a jewellers, or similar weight hammer can be very good at reducing the displaced metal at the periphery of the indentation, work you way inwards and often they end up half the size.

It is really annoying to see guns that have had this treatment, when it is the work of seconds simply to remove the sight / latch whatever, and "close" the dovetail slot edges carefully with a small brass hammer, often this is all that is needed, but a smear of locktite (on degreased parts!) on very loose parts normally is a permanent fix......there are penetrating grades as well for fixing rear sights after zeroing.....on extreme jobs, a combination of a pad of blued *shim steel* to raise the offending item, and locktite is also a good fix.

*I look for old sets of feeler gauges at car boots as donors.....you try some under the sight until it is a fairly stiff fit in the slot, then either use this size with locktite, or add a couple of thou and fit dry to enable zeroing if a rear sight...the grip will be as an original sight, and will last for yonks if undisturbed.....I have one BSA I did this on 10 years ago which is still zeroed perfectly windage wise.*

Some idea here of using the tig process;

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3122848...7623019958012/

Shame you are not closer, it would be a 5 min job