Hawk MK1 mainspring and fun

[BTDT]

Cosmetically very good except for broken rear site.

I'd look for a spring around 2.9mm wire diameter, 19.1 - 19.3mm outside diameter, with between 30 and 33 coils (giving rates between 32 lbf/in and 29 lbf/in respectively) that gave a natural (without packing) preload of around an inch. That should be in the right ball park.

[T 20]

I'd look for a spring around 2.9mm wire diameter, 19.1 - 19.3mm outside diameter, with between 30 and 33 coils (giving rates between 32 lbf/in and 29 lbf/in respectively) that gave a natural (without packing) preload of around an inch. That should be in the right ball park.

Hi Jim

The standard Meteor MK6 is about the nearest I can find to that spec after cutting but again the OD is only 18.8mm.

Have you tried sleeving the Hawk transfer port down to 2.5mm yet (you'll need to use a Vulcan breach seal) ?


I sleeved My HW35 down from 4mm to 2.3mm yesterday, the power hardly altered but the firing cycle was transformed and the chrono keeps reading dup.
I still can't believe all that air could get through a 2.3mm hole.


You really must try it on your Arnie




All the best Mick

[BTDT]

Morning, Mick.

I think I almost certainly used a spring from an earlier Meteor in my Hawk many moons ago, and don't have the specifications, but it did suit the Hawk.

I don't currently have a Hawk, but I understand how sleeving an over-sized transfer port can improve efficiency. I tried it on the 335, but that was before I discovered the bulge in the cylinder wall, which was effectively reducing the compression stroke to a fraction of what it should be, so the sleeving was to no avail. I really must get around to trying to cure that.

Cheers,

Jim

[ggggr]

A couple of things here. always thought that meteor springs fit hawk pistons better than Webley ones. I took up a Hawk piston To MAG and asked for a meteor mainspring to fit. Alan, quite rightly, pointed out that it was a Hawk piston I had. I told him to try a Webley spring in the piston and then a meteor one (silver streak I think) and he agreed that the meteor was a better fit.
I cannot understand why the Hawk mk1,2 and 3 have the same mainspring, when the mk1 has a shorter cylinder. They always seem oversprung with one of these fitted.
On the subject of the sleeving the transfer port, I tried this after reading Mick,s comments on the B2 and the Hawk earlier this year. Not having a chrono or anything, and having a bit of time to kill one Saturday night, I found a rivet that would fit the breech seal hole on the cylinder and then put the breech seal back in. The pellet seemed to be hitting the backstop harder and the POI moved about an inch to the left and higher ( I think). I tried it on another hawk with the same result. The rivet then fell into the cylinder , prompting a quick strip down. If you are not an engineer, I suppose the easiest way of sleeving is to us some Ptfe rod or similar to make a breech seal and open up the hole a bit at a time.
I also had the leaking cylinder thing with a hawk. I had to unscrew the cylinder end and jaws and use loctite to sort it. When chronoed for me, that had gone up from about 6.5 to 8.8ft lb.

[T 20]

If you are not an engineer, I suppose the easiest way of sleeving is to us some Ptfe rod or similar to make a breech seal and open up the hole a bit at a time.
I also had the leaking cylinder thing with a hawk. I had to unscrew the cylinder end and jaws and use loctite to sort it. When chronoed for me, that had gone up from about 6.5 to 8.8ft lb.

Hi Guy

I doubt that PTFE would last very long as the hot air would erode it.

I have been told that you can buy 4mm OD microbore brass pipe on the bay, this could be cut to length and worked in an electric drill to size it.

I normally form the chamfered lead in by simply spinning the brass sleeve up and putting a Stanly knife blade up it --- works well.


I wonder if the leaking Hawks could be sorted the same way as I did my HW35, with a little loctite 271 forced into the joint from inside the cylinder ?




All the best Mick

[ggggr]

Hi Guy

I doubt that PTFE would last very long as the hot air would erode it.

I have been told that you can buy 4mm OD microbore brass pipe on the bay, this could be cut to length and worked in an electric drill to size it.

I normally form the chamfered lead in by simply spinning the brass sleeve up and putting a Stanly knife blade up it --- works well.


I wonder if the leaking Hawks could be sorted the same way as I did my HW35, with a little loctite 271 forced into the joint from inside the cylinder ?




All the best Mick

Hi Mick---I meant making a full breech seal out of ptfe and then putting a hole in it, rather than actually trying to sleeve the transfer port itself. assumed that this would be ok as some people use ptfe to make breech seals for Cadets and Majors? Would hot air open up the hole in the middle if you more of less copied the Webley seal out of Ptfe but just put a smaller hole in it? The 4mm pipe would be handy for the centre of Webley pistol seals made of leather.
The trouble with the leaking hawks is that there are only about 2 threads on the plug, beyond the stock screw hole.At first I thought the stock screw hole was too deep but the air was actually coming around the thread. I think I used 271 loctite to sort it out.

[BTDT]

Hi Mick---I meant making a full breech seal out of ptfe and then putting a hole in it, rather than actually trying to sleeve the transfer port itself. assumed that this would be ok as some people use ptfe to make breech seals for Cadets and Majors? Would hot air open up the hole in the middle if you more of less copied the Webley seal out of Ptfe but just put a smaller hole in it? The 4mm pipe would be handy for the centre of Webley pistol seals made of leather.
The trouble with the leaking hawks is that there are only about 2 threads on the plug, beyond the stock screw hole.At first I thought the stock screw hole was too deep but the air was actually coming around the thread. I think I used 271 loctite to sort it out.

I think the breech seal on the Hawk needs to be elastic, to deform as the breech is closed, then to return to its original shape to seal the breech. PTFE is not elastic; squash it and it stays squashed.

The other point is that Mick is reducing transfer port size to raise the compression ratio, which you would not achieve by restricting just the hole in the seal, I'm afraid.

[T 20]

Hi Mick---I meant making a full breech seal out of ptfe and then putting a hole in it, rather than actually trying to sleeve the transfer port itself. assumed that this would be ok as some people use ptfe to make breech seals for Cadets and Majors? Would hot air open up the hole in the middle if you more of less copied the Webley seal out of Ptfe but just put a smaller hole in it? The 4mm pipe would be handy for the centre of Webley pistol seals made of leather.
The trouble with the leaking hawks is that there are only about 2 threads on the plug, beyond the stock screw hole.At first I thought the stock screw hole was too deep but the air was actually coming around the thread. I think I used 271 loctite to sort it out.

Hi Guy

As Jim says the idea of reducing the transfer port is to raise the static compression ratio of the gun.

A standard MK2/3 Hawk has a swept volume of about 37 cc and the standard transfer port has a volume of about 0.201cc giving a compression ratio of 184/1.

If you sleeve the transfer port down to 2.5mm over its full length the transfer port volume reduces to 0.079 cc giving a compression ratio of 468/1.

2.5mm is the standard size of a Vulcan transfer port by the way --- so no flow problems with that size port.

If you just replaced the Transfer port seal with a PTFE seal/reducer I think there would be problems with the double reduction in transfer port diameter. The PTFE would probably erode as the air went through it and as Jim says PTFE has no memory so if you squash it it stays squashed.

I'm still experimenting with all this at the moment but I'm finding synthetic seals and O rings seem to like a compression ratio of in between 300/1 - 600/1 whereas leather seals prefer to run below 200/1.

This could explain why folks who change HW55s from a leather to synthetic piston seal don't like the firing cycle ?

On my favourite HW77 I have opened the transfer port up to reduce the compression ratio from its standard 1055/1 down to 490/1.







All the best Mick

[T 20]

I cannot understand why the Hawk mk1,2 and 3 have the same mainspring, when the mk1 has a shorter cylinder. They always seem oversprung with one of these fitted.

Hi Guy

You're right again mate I've just put my MK1 and MK2 together and the MK1 has a completely different and shorter cylinder with no swelling for the breach block as the MK2 and MK3 have.

My MK2 is an early one with the MK1 style stock, I always took it that Webley just used up MK1 stocks on the early MK2s --- but the stocks are completely different as is the cylinder and stroke (I'll try to stick a piccy up later).

So it looks as though Jim's spring reccomendations in his excellent article on tuning the MK3 Hawk don't fully cross over to the MK1 as a shorter spring would be needed.

Cheers Mick Part of the thing I was on about was that the width and volume of the Webley breech seal should be taken into consideration in a calculation, but it looks like you have done that.

Well while I was comparing MK1 and MK2 Hawks I noticed that the MK1s original seal has a 4mm hole through it and from the days when I used a Hawk as my main gun I vaguely remember the seal hole being fairly big and having to change it when it closed up, so perhaps they were always 4mm straight through ?





All the best Mick

[T 20]

My MK2 is an early one with the MK1 style stock, I always took it that Webley just used up MK1 stocks on the early MK2s --- but the stocks are completely different as is the cylinder and stroke (I'll try to stick a piccy up later).

As promissed --- Hawk MK1 and MK2 actions side by side

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0_12010003.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0_12010001.jpg

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0_12010002.jpg

As a bit of an experiment Mick, could you try a Ptfe seal with a smaller hole in it and let me know the difference in fps or ftlbs, compared to a standard seal? I know you say that it wont last I would just be interested as to what it does, because I found that it moved POI on the 2 guns I tried it on and it SEEMED to be hitting the backstop harder (No chrono obviously)

Unfortunately Guy when I got my Hawk MK2 out I noticed that some fool had sleeved the transfer port down --- I can't even remember doing it.

So I can't try your experiment.



Here's a picture of my spare cylinder showing what the sleeve looks like when fitted.

http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...0_12010005.jpg


Now I'm pretty sure that I haven't put a new spring inside the complete .22" Hawk MK2 shown since about 1977 so I ran it over the crono to see what power it was putting out with the sleeved breach --- 9.46ftlbs with 14.5 grain pellets.

As I couldn't remember fitting the transfer port sleeve perhaps I have been inside it, I'll just have to open it up over the weekend to check, but I'm 100% sure I've not bought a spring for it since 1977.





All the best Mick

[ggggr]

How do you hold the sleeve in Mick? What are the lines on the Mk2 breech block? Has it had a block on it for a pistol scope or something?
I bought a dog rough Hawk mk3 for a fiver a few years ago (the one I filed the cylinder and end plug to take a meteor pin as it was so eggy) and that shots at 9.5ft lb with an O ring and a meteor mainspring and maybe a floating guide. It is one of those guns that people can pick up and just shoot with and it feels right.
be interested if you can try the Ptfe washer thing if you have an unmodified hawk somewhere.
I think Hawk mk ones plink well but the trigger can be heavy unless you have a nice "tired" spring.