I'm Looking For a leaky Air Match 600

[magicniner]

I'm Looking For a leaky Air Match 600
I bought a leaky one to reseal but the repair didn't require the piston seal replacing and I now have a good AirMatch 600.
The piston seal requires two sections of the gun to be parted, it appears to need pressing or pulling apart and may be bonded & require heat to break the bond and I don't want to fiddle with a good one!

- Nick

[GRAZY]

Hi Nick, I have one of these, it was apparently re-sealed when I got it but the power does seem very low and I don't think it holds pressure, I will have to get it out to check. Also it does show slight marking where it has been opened up, I can email you some photos of this if you want. What power should this give out, I think I was expecting about 3 ish, but my one is about 2.

[Benelli B76]

Should do about 350 fps with Geco. They only have one polyurethane O ring on the piston to produce pressure in the chamber. Some people replace with rubber. Do not lubricate compression chamber. Also liable to cracking in chamber due to thin alloy wall.


Baz

[Benelli B76]

Very easy to strip, knock out pins , end section at back screws off.

[magicniner]

Do not lubricate compression chamber

Baz,
I read this in the manual and a polyurthane seal should never be run dry so the only reason the manufacturer could have had for this was that they pre-lubed with something posh then sat happily waiting for the guns to dry out and the repairs to roll in
Mine now runs the same way as all my other SSPs - one drop of Magic 9 Design CO2 & SSP Oil every few hundred pellets.
Thanks for the stripping tip - I still fancy a knackered one to fiddle with though, mine is in really good shape and I don't fancy messing it about while it's working so well.
I'd be happy with one with the odd missing or broken part,
ATB,
Nick

[krolik]

I also acquired one. Looks very robust.
Mine works but has very low output velocity.

I stripped it down:
Someone used too much grease (some cheap and dirty stuff...)
O-rings were replaced with rubber (NBR most probably) - I do not see any reason to claim they work worse than PUR.
Barrel seal looks ok overall but shrink a bit and fall out of socket. Previous owner used some glue to fix it in place.

I think I located the problem of low energy: it is evidently problem of worn out valve lever - one which is hit with hammer and pushed the valve rod down. It seems to be weak point of this design.

I will remove old greases and use some good stuff instead.


Some questions to you. Hope you will find a minute or two to support:

1. Do you know o-rings size? Appreciate if you can save me some effort to experiment.

2. Any ideas on how to replace barrel white seal? I believe well chosen oring can work well - however it will increase dead volume before the pellet. Not much but still...

3. Any ideas how to fix the valve lever? I know I don't get factory replacement but maybe you know who can make it to order or have some other idea?
My first idea is to drill it through and make M3 or M4 thread for a hardened screw. That would allow for power regulation and future replacement of this element. I would fix the setting with green Loctite. Should work for quite some years. But maybe there are better ideas...

Appreciate all your inputs. It is great nice piece of pistol and really well balanced. Great trigger on top and it would be pity if I cannot bring it back to service.

Best,
Jaroslaw

[Benelli B76]

Jaroslaw, sorry I cant help you with much info. I put a new seal in one I had years ago, used a Nitrile O ring as I did not have polyurethane at the time and it worked OK. I only used a tiny bit of lube in the compression chamber and never re-lubed it again as these pistols don't seem to like it. The one I have now produces a lot of compression and shoots at well over 400 fps. I dont want to strip it down to get your info as it seems quite fragile at the back end and the alloy casting looks like it could crack quite easily. I have had no trouble with this one and it is super accurate.Hope you get yours shooting well again.

Baz

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...psd0b22a8a.jpg[/URL]

[krolik]

Thanks for reply.
There were older versions with potential problem of cracking and newer (s/n above 5000?) which had this problem solved. Not sure about details...

I have stripped mine. Everything looks good except this piece that opens the valve. It is bent and worn out in place where valve spindle is in contact. After assembly it shot well for some time - approx 390fps.
It handles great and shoots very accurate. I again confirm that trigger is great.

Hope some of you guys has a solution for this damn valve opening piece...