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Thread: Westlake breech washer

  1. #1
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    Sep 2011
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    Westlake breech washer

    I have been offered a Chinese Westlake air rifle in .177.Is it possible to get spares for them?i.e.Breech washers/piston head washers/seals?

    The breech washer seems to flatten out unevenly,when I miked the inside depth of the recess it is deeper at one side.I think this is the problem.I think it has been machined out of parallel with the face of the breech on the barrel end.I am contemplating levelling the breech in situ in a vice,then pouring in a tiny drop of resin until it finds its own level parallel to the breech face,thus making the depth equal,and equaling the pressure on the breech washer.
    The discrepency is top to bottom,not side to side,when the breech is closed,the barrel is 15 thou higher than the cylinder.
    Anyone been there and got the "T"shirt ?
    It has a beautifully tapered barrel,and the rifling is superb,it is extremely accurate with plenty of power.Seems a shame the breech washer lets it down.

    Any ideas anyone?

  2. #2
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    Jun 2010
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    Just as there is an owners forum for Weihrauch, Air Arms etc. there is one for the Chinese toys too. Have a look at:http://ukchineseairgunforum.myfreeforum.org/.

    I own a few B2 Chinese airguns. They are cheap and some are nasty, but I really enjoy correcting their errors and improving the overall performance.

    With my worst B2 I used a metal epoxy to slightly fill the seal gap and then seated the seal (an o-ring actually) as squarely as I could. When it dried it was a nice improvement.

    I did try correcting/evening out the worst gaps with a dremmel, it came out okay, but I'm way to chicken to measure the differences.
    AA RN10 .177 with Nikko Targetmaster 10-50X60
    AA S200 .22 with Tasco 6-24X50
    HW77K .177 with Hawke 3-10X44

  3. #3
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    Feb 2011
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    Dudley
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    breech seal

    Yes the b2 as a lot of Diana models have that weird breech seal grouve.on a g36 we used an 80 seal carefuly cutting and thicknessing it .great seal now .b2 we just cut a new seal from a belt pushed it in oversized in thickness once settled by closing it up we trimmed it down.oiled again it was fine.as said easy to improve a little.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by original45 View Post
    Yes the b2 as a lot of Diana models have that weird breech seal grouve.on a g36 we used an 80 seal carefuly cutting and thicknessing it .great seal now .b2 we just cut a new seal from a belt pushed it in oversized in thickness once settled by closing it up we trimmed it down.oiled again it was fine.as said easy to improve a little.
    Hi,thanks for the reply.
    When you say an 80 seal,do you mean the hw 80?I have made a washer/seal out of a thick horse belt,which is tough stuff and pretty thick,I was amazed how much it compressed when the breech was shut a couple of times,I soaked it in oil like we used to with the old Diana's and originals and it seems to be holding it's own.Still going for the epoxy method I mentioned though.I intend to redesign the stock,which is painted with brown paint and a little bit short.Could do with a cheekpiece as well.I have removed the open sites and fitted an old type Tasco scope on it,it is extremely accurate.The trigger takes a lot of effort,it's a heavy pull,but once you adjust to it it's fine.
    I noticed your title "Original" If you are into them perhaps you can answer a question for me.I had one 20yrs ago,the wooden stock came a long way down the barrel,which was a break barrel,for the life of me I cant remember the model number.The only clue I have is that it had the same title as some fashionable jeans of the day.[Original 51's I think]Come to think of it,it could have been an underlever.I had a hw77 at the same time,so I am a bit confused.[Old age creeping in I think]

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakes View Post
    Just as there is an owners forum for Weihrauch, Air Arms etc. there is one for the Chinese toys too. Have a look at:http://ukchineseairgunforum.myfreeforum.org/.

    I own a few B2 Chinese airguns. They are cheap and some are nasty, but I really enjoy correcting their errors and improving the overall performance.

    With my worst B2 I used a metal epoxy to slightly fill the seal gap and then seated the seal (an o-ring actually) as squarely as I could. When it dried it was a nice improvement.

    I did try correcting/evening out the worst gaps with a dremmel, it came out okay, but I'm way to chicken to measure the differences.
    Thanks for your reply Jakes,I will get on that forum.If michrometers are not your thing,try a vernia digital gauge,I use one with the clock on it,much simpler and easy to read than a mike.They have internal/external and depth on them,great.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Newmarket Suffolk
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by dancer View Post
    Thanks for your reply Jakes,I will get on that forum.If michrometers are not your thing,try a vernia digital gauge,I use one with the clock on it,much simpler and easy to read than a mike.They have internal/external and depth on them,great.
    Own and know how to use both a mic and a vernier, but as I get a little OCD when measuring things (I blame my training), using a micrometer or even a vernier on a B2 will most certainly cause me harm.

    Instead I made a few jigs and "preformed depth gauges" for the B2, much easier on the mental health.
    AA RN10 .177 with Nikko Targetmaster 10-50X60
    AA S200 .22 with Tasco 6-24X50
    HW77K .177 with Hawke 3-10X44

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    manchester
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakes View Post
    Own and know how to use both a mic and a vernier, but as I get a little OCD when measuring things (I blame my training), using a micrometer or even a vernier on a B2 will most certainly cause me harm.

    Instead I made a few jigs and "preformed depth gauges" for the B2, much easier on the mental health.
    My lamps are failing these days,those jigs sound like a good idea.

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