+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 17

Thread: How tight do you do your scope mounts ?

  1. #1
    Nikharvey is offline Goes by the name of Marjorie at weekends...
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    892

    How tight do you do your scope mounts ?

    I was fitting a Bushnell scope to my Bro's gaystate and setting it up for him and he claims I do the ring bolts too tight,now on both my hw100's one with a bushnell and one with a falcon menace I've always done them up with the small end of the supplied allen key making sure I tighten opposit bolts as tight as I can without being forcefull,he on the other hand does them up a lot less than me,

    I always thought the general rule of thumb was tight with the small end of the allen key ?
    ''It is said we learn by our mistakes........clearly not as we keep making the same mistakes.'' My Theory
    ''War is the continuation of politics by other means'' Carl Von Clausewitz.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Oakham, Rutland
    Posts
    1,732
    That's what I always do. Never crushed a scope tube yet.



    .

  3. #3
    oldskoolzzz is offline I'm getting there - Quickly!
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Long Eaton, Derbyshire
    Posts
    3,054
    I would agree with you the top bolts holding the mount cups just nipped up with the small end of allen key. I nip the mount to rail bolts up quite tight especially if it's going on a lively springer but not so tight that I feel I'm going to damage something.

    I once had mounts come loose on a daystate air wolf of all guns could of swore I had nipped the mount to rail bolts up but for some reason not quite enough and it surprised me that the mounts were moving on the rail especially on a non recoiling pcp.
    Last edited by oldskoolzzz; 07-12-2012 at 08:01 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Lima, Peru
    Posts
    5,148
    I've always used the long end of the allen key in the screws on scope rings in order to avoid overtightening.
    Arthur

    I wish I was in the land of cotton.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Exeter
    Posts
    7,434
    I normally give them a tweek on top with the long end, but only about 1 number on a clock face, (1/12th turn) you just get a feel for it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    192
    I use the long end on the scope rail, tight then no more than 1/4 turn. The rings, small end of the key and the same. This is dependant on feel, if you've got hands like a gorilla your idea of tight is going to be different to Ronnie Corbetts, it comes down to feel in the end. If it feels like you're getting close to distorting anything, let go and let someone else do it.

    Dave

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Inverness, Highlands, God's own country.
    Posts
    6,520
    Use standard engineering practice, tighten until until the screw strips then back off half a turn!
    Pistol & Rifle Shooting in the Highlands with Strathpeffer Rifle & Pistol Club. <StrathRPC at yahoo.com> or google it.
    No longer Pumpin Oil but still Passin Gas!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    widnes cheshire
    Posts
    1,103
    Quote Originally Posted by angrybear View Post
    I normally give them a tweek on top with the long end, but only about 1 number on a clock face, (1/12th turn) you just get a feel for it.
    This is the way.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Wymondham, Norfolk
    Posts
    307
    So really a slight nip and nothing more, otherwise fooked scope!
    HW100KS .177 ~ Hawke Tac 30 4.5-14 * 42mm ~ Harris 9-13" Swivel non notched bipod ~ Hawke LRF 600 - Tracer 400 Tactical ~ AIM Drag Bag++Beretta Silver Pigeon 1 12g 30" Sporter++Daystate Airwolf ~ Bushnell Elite 6500 2.5-16 * 50mm

  10. #10
    Nikharvey is offline Goes by the name of Marjorie at weekends...
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    892
    Quote Originally Posted by captain_gatso View Post
    So really a slight nip and nothing more, otherwise fooked scope!

    Now listen bell wipe I put this post up for you to show you that as per usual I am right and your fanny fingers don't do scopes up tight enough........it will slip and move.
    ''It is said we learn by our mistakes........clearly not as we keep making the same mistakes.'' My Theory
    ''War is the continuation of politics by other means'' Carl Von Clausewitz.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Newick
    Posts
    126
    Use standard engineering practice, tighten until until the screw strips then back off half a turn!
    Think this needs clarifying. The screw should be tightened to half a turn before it strips, you have described how to achieve that!!!!!

    Back to being serious, I dont do mine up that tight, but do check them regularly. I prefer this to risking tightening so much that I may risk crushing the scope, or stripping a thread.
    Air arms S200, S400, TX 200, Prosport, EV2, MPR,
    Daystate mk4 WH 95K

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Pleasant View
    Posts
    15

    According to Wheeler Engineering...

    Wheeler Engineering makes a very nice tool called a Fat Wrench. It is a torque wrench that you set and read in in/lbs. Here is the link and you can download the instructions PDF which gives the torque specs according to the size of the screws on your mounts. Great tool in my opinon.

    http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.co...b=instructions

    Best regards,
    Randy Rees

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    oxford
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by angrybear View Post
    I normally give them a tweek on top with the long end, but only about 1 number on a clock face, (1/12th turn) you just get a feel for it.
    Exactly-you just get a feel for it is right. Once you know you never forget-it's weird .

    Kat.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Malta, sometimes London
    Posts
    4,670
    Quote Originally Posted by RandyRees View Post
    Wheeler Engineering makes a very nice tool called a Fat Wrench. It is a torque wrench that you set and read in in/lbs. Here is the link and you can download the instructions PDF which gives the torque specs according to the size of the screws on your mounts. Great tool in my opinon.

    http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.co...b=instructions

    Best regards,
    Randy Rees
    Personally I don't trust torque wrenches, except for the flexy types they are mechanical devices with a +/- tolerance, but to make things worse an oily bolt and a dry one may show the same torque setting but sure as hell won't be tensioned anywhere near the same amount.

    For some reason as long as you have the feel for it, doing it by hand works very well indeed.
    **WANTED**: WEBLEY PATRIOT MUZZLE END; Any Diana/Original mod.50 and parts, especially OPEN SIGHTS; RWS Rapier / Excalibre. BROCOCK TAC GUNS -Your options. "I wud of fort my gun's wer bigga." I'M A GUNMAN and PROUD OF IT!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Peterborough
    Posts
    2,467
    Quote Originally Posted by air-tech View Post
    Personally I don't trust torque wrenches, except for the flexy types they are mechanical devices with a +/- tolerance, but to make things worse an oily bolt and a dry one may show the same torque setting but sure as hell won't be tensioned anywhere near the same amount.

    For some reason as long as you have the feel for it, doing it by hand works very well indeed.
    I have just been looking at the FAT wrench, seems I've not been doing it wrong in all this time.... You may have just talked me out of buying one

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts