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Thread: Aa s400..ease of maintenance?

  1. #1
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    Aa s400..ease of maintenance?

    I have a pre-at s400 and i believe that polishing the hammer rail and hammer will improve consistancy and possibly shot count....... never pulled a pcp apart before ....is it easy to do on my gun ? i do realise i have to fully empty the air chamber first

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trumpetier View Post
    I have a pre-at s400 and i believe that polishing the hammer rail and hammer will improve consistancy and possibly shot count....... never pulled a pcp apart before ....is it easy to do on my gun ? i do realise i have to fully empty the air chamber first

    Pre-anti tamper its the easiest thing in the world if you're evenly vaguely practical. Have a look at this link. It's all you need to know, including the hammer rail polish and a couple of other bits.

    I started out with an AA S400 as my first proper gun only a year or so ago. Took it apart and rebuilt it no problem. If you contact the 'top bloke for spare parts' on the links you'll get all the seals and anything else you needs and lots of free advice too. Join up and you get members discount too.

    http://www.airarmsownersclub.com/vie...p?f=20&t=28505

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trumpetier View Post
    I have a pre-at s400 and i believe that polishing the hammer rail and hammer will improve consistancy and possibly shot count....... never pulled a pcp apart before ....is it easy to do on my gun ? i do realise i have to fully empty the air chamber first
    Edit: beaten to it by truckcab, damn i'm slow at typing on the phone.


    If your only polishing hammer real ect then there's no need to empty the air cylinder, the s400 series is incredibly easy to work on even for me , although I was shown how to do it.

    If you don't feel competent I would get someone else to do it, or show you. which IMHO is the best way forward.

    ps: ill see if I can find any vids for you.


    Mark
    Air Arms MPR + GINB FT1 + VIPER 10X44
    WALTHER LGU + VIPER 10X44

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    As said, you don't need to empty the cylinder.
    Remove silencer/muzzle end. Unscrew the six allen bolts that hold the breech block onto the action. Very carefully, slide the breech block/barrel assembly backwards to clear the fig 8 clamp. Don't lose the thin transfer port O ring between the breech block and the action. Unscrew the big allen bolt in the back block, remove the hammer assembly, ie hammer, spring, spacer, (if fitted,) and end washer. Degrease the hammer and hammer rod. (Don't let any solvent get into the firing valve.) Remove any scratches on the hammer rod with 600ish wet and dry. Polish the hammer rod and hammer bushes with AutoSol, degrease again. Reassemble dry, or with the finest smear of thin sewing macine oil. Refit the barrel and breech block, I use a smear of silicone grease on the TP O ring to hold it in place, as it's easy to displace it. Replace the six bolts, and it's job done!

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  5. #5
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    You don't say whether this gun is new to you or just owned a long time. Either way I'd be tempted to do the full strip and replace all the seals at the same time. Also the hammer spring and valve spring. Having stripped and polished all mine once I then bought a combro and found out that far from tipping the power over the edge it was actually way down. Turned out the springs were tired. Might as well do them at the same time.

    You should really run it over a chrono when you're done to check that your tuning has not turned it up too high. On a pre anti-tamper you can adjust power. I'll PM you with how as not allowed on open forum.

    Stripping it is a very good way to learn how it works, or it was for me.

  6. #6
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    Thanks everyone for your help..... as mentioned im only wanting to try and get the consistancy as good as i can and if the shot count goes up ....more the better. It sounds pretty easy to do so will give it a go when i get the chance, i have a chrono so can keep tabs on it......cheers chaps

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