Re-paralaxing new scope?

[stuart2477]

Hello and a happy new year to everyone!
I have been given a brand new Nikko Stirling Diamond 1.5-6x42. It is a fantastic scope but the problem is that the parralax is set for powder burners at 100yrd. I want to change it to 30-35yrds, i have removed the objective lens thread cover to reveal the 2 notches in the lens carrier only to find that whatever i do it will not budge! I have tried gentle heating with hot air but it will not move? Can anyone suggest anything else to try or if I am missing somthing that I need to do?
Regards
Stu

[DNF]

If you have removed the locking collar, and cant move the notches with your finger nail then I suggest making a flat bar up that fits the notches, from one side to the other.

In the past when I had a really tight one I found a bit of metal which fitted, but its quite a scarey thing to try. I remember not being able to shift a simmons a few years, I just buggered up the notches.

[Gwylan]

I use a piece of broken hacksaw blade, ground to the correct length between notches, but sometimes the front ring is glued, so you may be buggered..! (I think that's the technical term!)

Gus

[Sargeant York]

If you have removed the locking collar, and cant move the notches with your finger nail then I suggest making a flat bar up that fits the notches, from one side to the other.

In the past when I had a really tight one I found a bit of metal which fitted, but its quite a scarey thing to try. I remember not being able to shift a simmons a few years, I just buggered up the notches.

I agree with this.......make sure the flat bar spans from one notch to the other and is a snug fit......keep the bar pushed into the slot whilst turning thus making sure it doesn't twist or damage the lens or scope body.
The lens i have just done was certainly quite tight and without the right thickness of flat bar would have seemed very difficult to move.
I found that a steel 6" rule and also a butt hinge were spot on for the job Be Patient until you find the right sized bar. Personally i would never heat up a scope/lens and NEVER tap it to make it turn.
Good Luck

[El Garro]

if you make a flat bar tool to fit the slots, make sure to shape it between the pegs/teeth bits to clear the convex lens of the scope before trying to use it.
It's very easy to scratch the coating..

[h j o'rydon]

Hi Stu

The advice given above regarding the use of a flat bar is good. If you have enough patience, you could do what I did.

Cut and file a piece of steel sheet of a good thickness ( you can easily file to thickness the tiny part that will locate in the
notches) into a T-shape. The width of the bottom of the T needs to fit across the diameter, and fit into the notches. Its
depth doesn't need to be much; just enough to clear the tube.

Leave the cross-bar of the T a good size to fit your hand to apply leverage. You might want to cut a circle from something
tough (I used thick rubber sheet) to protect the lens in case of slippage.

Then give the outside of the scope a good heating so that its far too hot to touch. It's surprising just how hot it needs to be
to melt the Loctite. A hairdrier's not hot enough; you need a hot-air gun, bringing the temperature up gradually.

Protect the hand holding the scope with a glove, and make sure that your improvised tool doesn't slip from the notches.

You might be surprised at how much force it takes. Rather than allowing the tool to slip, apply more heat and try again.

It may seem a lot of work, but you'll only have to do it once; and the pleasure when it does yield!

I did this a while back on a vintage Japanese-made Nikko: well worth the effort.

A little "winding-out", and trial-and-error reparallaxing, and you're done.

Good luck!

ATB

h j