Gun Blueing Products & Their Use ...

[Gungeek]

My S400 suffers from the infamous mediocre blueing on this model and I'd like to try using a proprietary gun blueing product on it. After all, it can't turn out worse than it started ... can it? I would therefore like to hear the members' experiences of using these preparations and how successful the outcome was, and how easy these products are to use. For example; is it a matter of putting plenty on, leaving a while, and then removing the excess. Or, is it more exacting than that. Let rip with your praise or condemnation of this type of product and name names, who makes "the good stuff" and who does not. Regards ... Geek

[lloyd]

You could deffinately make the gun worse with a blueing kit. There is an art involved in preparation and finishing and really blueing kits are better for small items not a full cylinder. You cant beat proper hot blueing done by a proffesional if you want a better finish.

[Gwylan]

"... it can't turn out worse than it started... can it?"

Oh yes it can..!

I always give my S400s a wipe with a lightly oiled rag if I get finger marks on it, or I get that AA "colour fringe" effect on the bluing, not just if it gets wet,etc.
Gus.

[baz]

Send the parts to ISP, the difference will certainly notice they do a superb job at very reasonable price

Baz

[Gungeek]

Send the parts to ISP, the difference will certainly notice they do a superb job at very reasonable price

Baz

Thanks to all respondees.

Sounds great in principle Baz, though can't say I relish the thought of taking the thing completely apart.

ISP, of ISP Airstream fame I guess, eh? Where in the country are they located please.

Regards ... Geek

[redcatfishjack]

If you get the Tel No: from the webpage use the mobile number, I've just spent a week getting a "wrong number" reply from the landline, as they've moved. Very helpful when you do make contact though!

[chris ballard]

Reckon lloyd and baz are right on.

I recently re blued an entire relum 225 (my first air rifle when I was a kid). It was a nice finish, compared with the nice rusty one (well i'm 40 now) Seriously though, I worked very hard to get the metal very smooth and de greased it with IPA. The problem was getting an even coat with the chemical (Birchwood casey from chambers ). I swabbed it on with cotton wool and it started turning immediately. This meant that when I overlapped for the next pass on the cylinder, I got a variation. I dont think you can beat the heating and oil method, but for small parts, cold bluing is fine. I guess it would work well if you could spray it, but that would be BL**DY dangerous IMHO.

I did get a nice enough finish, and I was pleased with it, but it can all go so 'pete tong' on big items.

[Gungeek]

I really don't think I'll be refinishing the whole of my S400's cylinder with cold blueing, not after the replies to this thread. My several options appear to be; strip the gun down and have it re-blued professionally, replace the cylinder with a new one, buy a second-hand S400 in better condition and canabalise one from two, or stop looking too closely at the one I've already got and admire it for its accuracy rather than its aesthetic value. Regards ... Geek

[HarryPotter]

I wouldn't recommend this for a PCP but for a springer project a combination of Birchwood Casey & Blue Wonder products can create a very worthy finish.

Not up to ISP / Venom standard but very very passable.

But as said, it's all in the prep.