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Thread: Parker-hale 1858 enfield general questions and advice please

  1. #1
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    Parker-hale 1858 enfield general questions and advice please

    I've shot BP revolvers and pistols for a while but not rifles. I've just treated myself to a Parker-Hale 1858 two band Enfield (S/No. below 9000) for a change and have a few 'Nooby' questions. I would appreciate help here.

    1. How to slug the barrel ? (I have soft lead) Been told to do this to get the right bullet mould.
    2. I would like a nipple protector, do I get one of Kranks 'Snap Caps' or look for an original ? Any advantages to Kranks or the original.
    3. What is the barrel plug for that Krank advertises ? Obviously to plug the barrel but why should I need to do this ?
    4. Which mould should I get ?
    5. Do I need to remove the barrel and dunk it in a bucket of solvent for cleaning after every shoot or is there an easier way ?
    6. When I do remove the barrel any suggestions how not to scrape the blue off the barrel with the barrel bands ? (They are very tight)
    7. Is the 'Privates tool or 'Sergeants' tool necessary ?
    8. Do I need a long funnel to pour the powder down the barrel or is it OK to just tip it down the bore straight from a phial ?
    9. I have Swiss No.2 any load suggestions.

    Thanks.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    chelmsford
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    no questions are silly

    1, I just use a calliper to check the barrel
    2, Kranks one are ok on mine
    3, no idea
    4, I use the LEE Minie Mold
    5, you can remove the barrel, and pour hot water down it. I always use a little screen wash as well. Or get some small bore pipe that fits over the nipple and place this in a bucket
    6, carefully, you should not scrape the bluing
    7, nice to have but not necessary
    8, I just use a vial, but you can use a tube its just more to carry
    9, I use Medium or TS2 so sorry

    hope it helps

  3. #3
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    1. How to slug the barrel ? (I have soft lead) Been told to do this to get the right bullet mould.

    The Lyman mould that used to come with this rifle is THE one to get - it is sized about 1.5-2 thou undersized - THAT is what you need. Unless you know something that I don't, you won't be able to slug the barrel of any muzzleloader without being able to remove the breech plug. However, using a piece of bent wire and rolled-up newspaper wadding you can use a low-melt material called Cerrosafe to take a muzzle cast. Anyhow, since the P-H rifles were all made to a common bore size - the benefit of modern production methods - the Lyman #575213AV mould seems to suit most guns. If you PM me I'll stick a few in the mail for you to try out. Assuming that you are going to be casting your own - nothing less than 99% lead will do for a Minié bullet. Bullet lube recommendations are as numerous as the stars - I've used a 50/50 mix of Neet's foot oil and beeswax or Alox since before Nelson learned to row.

    2. I would like a nipple protector, do I get one of Kranks 'Snap Caps' or look for an original ? Any advantages to Kranks or the original.

    Nope - suit yourself - Peter Dyson makes one as well - see his webiste for a wide range of accessories.

    3. What is the barrel plug for that Krank advertises ? Obviously to plug the barrel but why should I need to do this ?

    DON'T use a barrel plug - it traps moisture inside - NOT a good idea.

    4. Which mould should I get ?

    See above.

    5. Do I need to remove the barrel and dunk it in a bucket of solvent for cleaning after every shoot or is there an easier way ?

    The only REAL solvent that you need for REAL BP is hot water, followed by a copious régime of drying out and finally, oiling up with anything made for the job. That is NOT WD40, BTW. I use a mix of hot soapy water using dish soap NOT washing-up liquid, which contains salt as a thickening agent. All that is needed is a length of silicone tubing - about a two-foot piece will do, that is a tight fit on the nipple. Standing the rifle upright, insert the end of the tube into the BH water, and using the cleaning rod with a good-sized wad of patches, pump it up and down in the bore, taking care not to actually withdraw it from the barrel [messy]. The suction as you pull the cleaning rod up will draw the hot water into the bore via the nipple- keep on until the water comes out clean, and then allow the heat of the barrel to dry it all out. Follow this by a load of drying patches, and then, finally, the stuff that you are going to use for storage until the next shoot. There are millions of different stuff out there. When cleaning the nipple, pay cloase attention to the threads, and the flash channel in the breech, which is NOT in a straight line. When replacing the nipple, make sure that the little copper washer is in place, and if you haven't got one, get one. A touch of CopperSlip grease with help the next removal too.

    6. When I do remove the barrel any suggestions how not to scrape the blue off the barrel with the barrel bands ? (They are very tight)

    First off, slacken the screws, then with your hand, SQUEEZE the barrel into the stock - the band then come off without touching the barrel - this is basic knowledge, I'm amazed that I seem to be the only one who knows it.

    7. Is the 'Privates tool or 'Sergeants' tool necessary ?

    The nipple wrench is good to have, and it looks spiffy. I've managed the last 38 years without one. Make up your own mind about that one. You SHOULD have had a T-wrench with the gun, BTW.

    8. Do I need a long funnel to pour the powder down the barrel or is it OK to just tip it down the bore straight from a phial ?

    Using a drop tube is just fine - do it or don't. All it does is ensure that none of the loose charge gets stuck to the inside of the barrel, but pushing the shot down does that anyhow. The rifle does not have the reduced or patent breech of the .451cal rifle, so IMO it's not really necessary.

    9. I have Swiss No.2 any load suggestions.

    The service load for the .577cal Minié bullet of the day was 2.5 drams - 68gr of what was then called Fine Rifle Powder. I would start off at 60gr - Swiss being very consistent stuff as well as being renowned for its energy over most other stuff.

    A tip - get yourself the latest version of the Lyman BP handbook. And get on to the MLAGB site where David Minshall - world record holder and international champion of muzzle-loading long range has an article on tuning and shooting the Enfields.

    Lastly, get yourself some RWS caps, and shoot FIVE before you load.

    tac
    Last edited by tacfoley; 10-11-2013 at 03:03 PM.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the helpful replies, much appreciated. Tac, I'll be in touch re: the moulds, not quite ready to start just yet.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  5. #5
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    I was told many years ago that "Stardrops" does not contain salt. I have been using it for years without any problems....it whiffs a bit though.

    Before you buy a mould see if you can try different types of Minnie bullets, not all shoot well with the Lee one.
    My friend has to use the heavy Pedersoli Minne bullet, nothing else gives him any accuracy.

    Atb.

  6. #6
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    @enfield2band - I have no idea what 'Stardrops' is, but if YOU recommend it, then I have no doubt that it works.

    @OP - if you email me with your address I'll send you a couple of bullets to try, made with my Lyman mould.

    tac

  7. #7
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    Iv got a Lyman mine mould and it didn't shoot well in my 2 band at all. It was fine with patched ball though.
    The 2 band went and iv now bought a Parker Hale Musketoon so will be re trying them with the shorter barrel
    once my ticket comes back and i can take delivery of my new toy. If no joy i will stick to patched round ball
    as before.
    Tac has covered it all really. The only thing i would add is never be tempted to dry fire onto a nipple cover.
    I did it by accident and it shattered into lots of tiny bits, DER!!! Tim.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    @enfield2band - I have no idea what 'Stardrops' is, but if YOU recommend it, then I have no doubt that it works.

    @OP - if you email me with your address I'll send you a couple of bullets to try, made with my Lyman mould.

    tac
    Tac. A friend of mine has a Lyman mould, but thank you for your kind offer.

    The club where I shoot has a 50/50 split of members who shoot only originals or reproductions. Between them they have a good assortment of moulds, some of which have been bought over the counter and then had the base plug modified, or altered to take different styles of base plug.
    One member had an original Enfield mould with the conical bullet and no lubrication bands. Neither an original Enfield or a reproduction liked it even though it was tried with and without a paper patch. We came to the conclusion that it may be that because we only shoot at 100 yards the bullet might not be stabilising, but we don't know.
    I have a Parker Hale .577" mould, but, I lost the base plug! and any bullets cast with it are done with the lyman base plug. (Which is not the best fit but it works).

    This is the link to "Stardrops". I'm still using the stuff from when it came in a glass bottle.

    http://www.wilko.com/multi-purpose-c...l/invt/0080402

    Atb.

  9. #9
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    'kay.

    tac

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