Crosman 1377 - Best Trigger Mods?

[Biker_Bob]

My 1377 is a very accurate gun. I've sorted the valve TP and hammer spring and it's running a nice 5.2 ftlbs with JSBs.
Now it's just the trigger that lets the show down. I've done the usual squash-the-sear-spring mod but it's still creepy and notchy.
Which of the available mod kits is the best? Is the GMac one any good?

[Bazmati2020]

I've just fitted two in the last week.

A T Robb kit to my 1322 and a Cothran roll trigger (SD custom) to my 2300T.

The Robb came with lighter spring, a sear guide and trigger. The trigger needed a little smoothing out as some machine marks, but is a solid fit with no slop and I have to say is much smoother.

The Cothran trigger has a roller in the sear contact point and is a thing of beauty. Really well made, smooth and cold to the touch. The 2300 already had the lighter spring and adjuster so this was just trigger. It is again a solid fit, no slop at all and has also improved the trigger.

Would probably recommend both to be honest although the roll trigger is by far the better trigger on its own, but you do need a spring change too (I may try the Roller trigger with sear guide to see if a mix works well.

Here are some photos

http://s23.postimg.org/gpig57x6f/image.jpg

http://s23.postimg.org/neozl8iif/image.jpg

Sorry should have mentioned pricing.

The Roll trigger is £30
The Rob trigger and spring/guide is £23 (spring and guide £11 on their own)

[TonyL]

Nice info young man.

Must admit, I have a 1377 and a 2240 which I'll have to address at some point.

To be fair, the 1377 isn't TOO bad; creepy, yes, but predictable. The 2240, as it is in it's current state, not so clever.

I've seen bits in the past on polishing the surfaces up and installing the lighter spring. They all seem to make sense. Also the little Delrin shims, to eliminate any sideways slop.

We're now spoilt for choice for options for custom goodies for these fine little pistols, with Terry Robb, SD and G-Mac all offering kit.

My 1377 wears a shoulder stock, steel breech and 4x32 scope and is AMAZINGLY accurate, as in it will punch 10 shot groups within a 6mm circle! With the standard trigger at my home 12 yards range.

The 2240 I similarly converted. However, it is not as clinically accurate and the accuracy doesn't always come consistently......With the 1377, once you're into the "zone" it's almost monotonous the way it can keep printing those tiny groups.....The 2240 will lob a few fliers.....Must admit, though, I have steadfastly stuck with the Hobbies....maybe this one simply doesn't like them.

Anyway, I'm waiting for my Walther Red Dot to arrive.....It may land today....Everytime I hear a van outside, I get excited, hoping it's arrived......This one's going to go back to its original pistol format and just enjoy some good old fashioned fun......Future mods....trigger, barrel re-crown (maybe) and some of those tasty Allen screw fasteners.

Still also fancying a 2250.

[clarky]

Tony, I personally proved beyond any doubt that the 1377 is more accurate than the 2240 even when pumped 10 times.
Its a contest between consistent multi pumping and the slight velocity variation each pump can bring versus the velocity drop off, cooling effect and gas run down/peak that comes with the 2240. (all other things being as equal as I could get it)
Im pretty sure the extra barrel length helps the 1377 also.

[Biker_Bob]

Regarding the 2240/1377 accuracy debate, it might just be the difference between 177 and 22. I had a 2240 with 177 barrel and it was blisteringly accurate.
On the 1377 trigger I'm not going bother with a custom trigger now because I've improved it to the point where I think it's good enough.
All I did was squash the spring down as far as I could (whilst ensuring sear engagement) and then polished the surfaces of the sear and trigger where they meet. I also polished the sear on the face that holds the hammer back.
The difference is remarkable, the horrid graunching has gone and it's now a smooth light pull. The second stage is still a little long so I'm going to look at making an adjuster so that I can limit the sear engagement with the hammer.
Most of the custom trigger kits just seem to be a gold trigger (looks nice but doesn't achieve anything) and an adjustable sear spring (which I've got round by crushing the original). The only trigger kit I can see that would really make a difference is the GMac one with adjustment screws to set the sear engagement and they are currently out of stock.
It'll never be as good as the HW40 but then the HW40 doesn't put pellets out at over 5 ftlbs.

[TonyL]

Tony, I personally proved beyond any doubt that the 1377 is more accurate than the 2240 even when pumped 10 times.
Its a contest between consistent multi pumping and the slight velocity variation each pump can bring versus the velocity drop off, cooling effect and gas run down/peak that comes with the 2240. (all other things being as equal as I could get it)
Im pretty sure the extra barrel length helps the 1377 also.

Hi Clarky,

You could be well right there, matey.
I always pump the 1377 slowly, controllably and deliberately.
I don't have the figures to hand right now, but when run over the chrono, even on 10 pumps, the thing just amazed me...something like 2.5fps variation!! Amazing for something so inexpensive and with so many variables there with the numbers of pumps. I also checked it where I pumped it and then left it stood for half an hour....the same!!

These things are superb. Brilliant value for money. Accurate. They punch well above their on-paper credentials.

[TonyL]

Regarding the 2240/1377 accuracy debate, it might just be the difference between 177 and 22. I had a 2240 with 177 barrel and it was blisteringly accurate.
On the 1377 trigger I'm not going bother with a custom trigger now because I've improved it to the point where I think it's good enough.
All I did was squash the spring down as far as I could (whilst ensuring sear engagement) and then polished the surfaces of the sear and trigger where they meet. I also polished the sear on the face that holds the hammer back.
The difference is remarkable, the horrid graunching has gone and it's now a smooth light pull. The second stage is still a little long so I'm going to look at making an adjuster so that I can limit the sear engagement with the hammer.
Most of the custom trigger kits just seem to be a gold trigger (looks nice but doesn't achieve anything) and an adjustable sear spring (which I've got round by crushing the original). The only trigger kit I can see that would really make a difference is the GMac one with adjustment screws to set the sear engagement and they are currently out of stock.
It'll never be as good as the HW40 but then the HW40 doesn't put pellets out at over 5 ftlbs.

Excellent result, Bob!

Think I'll probably tackle mine in the same manner.

By the way, I seem to remember that you sometimes go to the Idleback range. I'm also a member there, although have not visited since last Summer. If you still go there, fancy meeting up there sometime with the Crosmans in the New Year?

I could really fancy doing a Backpacker type special....1377, flat top piston and valve, steel breech, long barrel, shoulder stock. Using nice heavies, I bet it'd be awesome on rats!

Also, if you ever hear of a 2250 that's not been messed with at the right money, please shout up!

Cheers,

Tone.

[da da]

Nice info young man.

Must admit, I have a 1377 and a 2240 which I'll have to address at some point.

To be fair, the 1377 isn't TOO bad; creepy, yes, but predictable. The 2240, as it is in it's current state, not so clever.

I've seen bits in the past on polishing the surfaces up and installing the lighter spring. They all seem to make sense. Also the little Delrin shims, to eliminate any sideways slop.

We're now spoilt for choice for options for custom goodies for these fine little pistols, with Terry Robb, SD and G-Mac all offering kit.

My 1377 wears a shoulder stock, steel breech and 4x32 scope and is AMAZINGLY accurate, as in it will punch 10 shot groups within a 6mm circle! With the standard trigger at my home 12 yards range.

The 2240 I similarly converted. However, it is not as clinically accurate and the accuracy doesn't always come consistently......With the 1377, once you're into the "zone" it's almost monotonous the way it can keep printing those tiny groups.....The 2240 will lob a few fliers.....Must admit, though, I have steadfastly stuck with the Hobbies....maybe this one simply doesn't like them.

Anyway, I'm waiting for my Walther Red Dot to arrive.....It may land today....Everytime I hear a van outside, I get excited, hoping it's arrived......This one's going to go back to its original pistol format and just enjoy some good old fashioned fun......Future mods....trigger, barrel re-crown (maybe) and some of those tasty Allen screw fasteners.

Still also fancying a 2250.

177 Hobby a big yes in the 1377 thats what i use,with a shoulder stock and red dot fitted.
2240 Super domes in my two 2240s and in my King ratty and 4 2250b,s Yes i love Crosmans Try. as litey used to say Hobby to light for them guns.
And i reckon he was right 2240 short barrel Co2 blast thats why can destroy a Chrombro with out a silencer fitted.
Done on phone tidy up later

[TonyL]

Cheers for the Superdomes tip, matey.
I use them in my longer range Weihrauchs, so don't know why I've not tried them previously.....Sorry, actually, I do.....I have the longer probe on mine. Even with Hobbies, it's quite a squeeze. I expect the 'Domes are a little longer, so don't know how easy they'll be to load, of at all! And, to date, I've only used it at very close range, as in 12 yards max.

Once the dot sight lands (any day now!), I'll give them a go. Of it groups just a little tighter and more consistently, I'll be happy.

If I also end up with a 2250, might give that a try with some Barracudas / Bisley Magnums.

[clarky]

I went to my club range earlier this evening and tested my Crosman 1377 against the 2240 I sold to a pal at the club. We both ran the same test with Hobby and an Aimpoint with rested elbows off the counter at 10mtrs.
9 pumps in my Crosman giving the same power in the 54 degree hall save for 8 fps avg spread. 10 pumps giving 27 fps average spread higher.
Normally use my 1377 on the 10 pumps so tested also but omitted here to try and give the best accuracy.

Result
2240 (fresh bulb) put in first shot 9mm high of 10 ring, 2nd shot clipping right corner of 10 ring. Second shot same hole. 3rd shot 8mm low of 10 ring.
4th shot 11mm low and 5th shot 12mm low.

1377 first shot top left edge of 10 ring, second shot 4mm high and left of 10 ring, 3rd 10 ring cut in half on left side, 4th shot 3mm left of that and 5th through same hole of upper left.

Conclusion... the first shot out of a 2240 is unfair on the gun (requires a clearing or slight cooling shot) as it usually strikes slightly high in our experience. 2nd shot follows point of aim perfectly, as does the second shot but cooling effect, caused subsequent shots to fall upto 12mm low.
Thus initial warm up shot and subsequent cooling shots opened group size to just under 21mm, even without the factor of peak gas power running out.
The 12mm group of the 1377 virtually repeated by my co shooter minus one flier when he pulled his second shot but still inside 16mm.
His 2240 effort recording 22 mm with no fliers.
If we consider no warm up shot required for the 1377. No gas running out and no cooling effects, or ambient temp issues....
1377 owns at potentials.
The argument for the 2240 is during off hand shooting, the 1377 shooter suffers slightly due to the pumping....depending on your strength/fitness.
However, for me that one shot is more likely to hit the target from the 1377, especially the first shot.

[ikarma70]

I always dry fire my 2240 5-10 times to hit a better level of consistency and accuracy.
I use a 1377 and a 2240 in the ubc meets and I usually get around mid-upper 80's and the pellets they prefer are umarex mozzies and jsb exact 4.52mm.

[Biker_Bob]

The trick with the 2240 is to let it rest between shots.
At the Redhill HFT competitions the fire rate is typically one per minute, I haven't noticed any drop-off in impact at that throughput. My 2240 with 177 barrel would hit 25yd knockdowns everytime (if I did my bit). But yes, if you're chucking lead through it in a hurry it does indeed cool down and the power goes with it.

[clarky]

The trick with the 2240 is to let it rest between shots.
At the Redhill HFT competitions the fire rate is typically one per minute, I haven't noticed any drop-off in impact at that throughput. My 2240 with 177 barrel would hit 25yd knockdowns everytime (if I did my bit). But yes, if you're chucking lead through it in a hurry it does indeed cool down and the power goes with it.

Its still a very accurate gun and I agree that the temp issues can be negated somewhat.
I return next Tues and will run the same test again with a 1 minute dwell between shots.....for both guns of course.
I think the time between shots this time around were about the same as it takes the Crosman to be pumped the 9 times.
I should really try off hand shooting also...im thinking about weight of 1377 forearm and pumping energy here.
they're close.

[gedfinn 2]

My 1377 is a very accurate gun. I've sorted the valve TP and hammer spring and it's running a nice 5.2 ftlbs with JSBs.
Now it's just the trigger that lets the show down. I've done the usual squash-the-sear-spring mod but it's still creepy and notchy.
Which of the available mod kits is the best? Is the GMac one any good?

I have a 1322 ( Was a 1325 ) But I sold the barrel !
Its now a 1322 Pre-charged 2000 Psi , As regards the trigger its very good as it has a very light spring , & a Heavy hammer weight, 25 ish shots at 6 fpe , It does start a little lower & creeps up to 6, But drops down to 5.5 + at the end,
Its intresting in that after the first 50 bar, Every pump gives one shot ! Its been over 2000Psi, & Obviously gives more shots but consistency falls off a cliff. ( I tested it to 3200 psi full of water, Thats all the bottle had )

Its 10+ years old , & Was still full of air, get your pumping done with the Stirrup pump prior to going out , You know it makes sense , Ha ha,
As a matter of intrest, I read the other thread on PTFE, I use it on almost everything & So does Crosman now ,
Exhaust valves at 3000 Psi are a little over the top for it though . Ged.

PS. I also have a 2250 Pre-charged in rifle & Pistol format , 12 & 6 Fpe at around 18 shots in both flavours, They gave almost these same numbers just by adding the 24" Barrel to the rifle ? Looking for Pics For both complete guns although they should be in the Archives,

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc9d09596.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...ps4c4a8d1f.jpg