Further to my earlier post a few people have asked for more info or photos and some fine detailed questions.
So here goes.
If you have watched the video http://youtu.be/z0TlctbLT3w then you will notice a few adaptions on the following photos. The only part I could not do at home with small hand tools was to turn the holes in the case supply drum and case turning wheels. This was done by a friend with a lathe f.o.c.
The three drive motors are 12 volt geared motors at 15 rpm. ( approx £8 each ) These were all from the bay along with the speed controllers ( approx £4 each)
The reason for the speed controllers are the case feed roller speed ( rpm) determines the time the case is heated as generally the larger the case the longer time in the burner.
The case turning wheels must spin in the same direction or the case goes thru mangle style, I found the smaller the case the faster I spin these wheels.
The burner is a standard DIY blow torch which I cut the pipe in half and extended with 8mm compression fitting and a piece of nylon air tube ( I can't guarantee this tube is correct for gas but works for me) as the gas torch is only controlled by a needle valve and is not regulated I fire up the machine with a few old sacrificial shell cases in of the same calibre and check the time and temp with maplins infrared thermometer.
The unit is powered by a lead acid battery so is mobile (note the main fuse for protection).
The case is thrown off the wheels by a maplins central locking motor (approx £10) I even used the mounting strip that came with it, you have to attach a small return spring as the unit don't know where to park between strokes. I passed the push rod through a pot rivet centre as a guide.
The micro switch activates the central locking motor to throw off the cases.
Have a look at these pics they may help
There will be people reading this who will say "why bother" we'll here we go I spend thousands of pounds on rifles and a similar amount on reloading ammunition some of my rounds cost £3 each to reload and I expect good accuracy so the even annealing of case necks is important as a hard brass case will grip the bullet differently to a soft or evenly annealed case.
Hope this helps Steve.
p.s. I don't have the time to make one for anyone but good luck if you try. (you can come and look at mine if it will help)
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Originally Posted by Blackbaronfish
