The Bulletproof Monk
Start by draw filing if its bad then through the grades of emery.
You can plate heavily with copper then rub back prior to nickel or chrome plating which works like high build filler which is quicker if you like the shiny look.
Either way its a bitch of a job and I've done more than a few
Registered User
Is there a difference between emery paper and normal B&Q type papers if so what is it ?
Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.
Registered User
Thanks everyone for all the help
Is this tbe type of files I need they are for sale on flebay item number
221014078531
Cheers
David
Mushroom Man
If the pitting is not severe and you have the parts nicely cleaned, have a go at cold bluing. Maybe not as good or durable as a professional reblue... but pretty cheap. I have done this on old actions that a previous owner has painted grotty black; Cleaned parts down to 600 or 1200 grade paper then degreased etc and cold blued applied a few times as per instructions. I was surprised to see that after a few applications the odd pits I had seen were disappearing. Keep at it ... it should work. Preparation is the key to success.
Cheers, Phil
Registered User
Here are a few pictures of the rifle before I started do you guys think its salvageable
http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...pse0e7c2ed.jpg
http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps13d4509e.jpg
http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...psc643e78f.jpg
http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps29b9b9e5.jpg
Cheers
David
Registered User
Brown sauce and vinegar ( LOL)
was given a tip by our local RFD as to the best way to remove old bluing was Brown sauce (any brand) and vinegar (I Laughted)but it worked as its still acid and was cheaper,as for the cleaner/degreaser the wifes nail polish remover and her face pads as wipes hardly cost ME anything
I also have used valve grinding paste finish off with the fine you can still get the double ended tins today,I used to it recrown a barrel over the weekend turned out fine
Last edited by davymole; 12-02-2014 at 12:16 PM. Reason: forgot the grinding paste
HW 97k s/s laminated stock.Hw 98k cs500 stock,CZ 457 varmint.Tika T3x Super Varmint 223 rem. an HW95k having sneaked back in
Browning 725 12g sporter, pair of 525 sporters,SX3 Red Performance
Registered User
My msn cave is the dining room table the wife is not happy .
How do you use the grinding paste to remove the pitting.
Would I use the paste on some wet and dry cut into strips and used shoe shine style
Or would I need to buy an electric bench grinder and add some polishing mops
The deepest pits are on the breech block in the photos the ones on the barrel are starting to shift
5 hours of sanding with 80 and 240 grit wet n dry .
I want to finish the barrel before really starting the cylinder more seriously.
I have a vulcan in the same state maybe slightly worse after 27 years in a loft so I need to get some good results with the we falcon so I can make the vulcan as nice as I can.
Atb
David
It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got a Spring
Would also agree with the BROWN SAUCE method but only use that "Houses of Parliament brand" as it Handles Pitting !Originally Posted by davymole
was given a tip by our local RFD as to the best way to remove old bluing was Brown sauce (any brand) and vinegar (I Laughted)
“An airgun or two”………
Registered User
Like me it will keep you in the man cave for a while but its well worth it just for the satisfaction that you did this and well done
HW 97k s/s laminated stock.Hw 98k cs500 stock,CZ 457 varmint.Tika T3x Super Varmint 223 rem. an HW95k having sneaked back in
Mushroom Man
A few points to consider: If the rifle is for your son to plink with, is it really worth the cost of a professional re-blue, including any post and packing charges? For very little more than these costs you could get a perfectly respectable new rifle for him to use.
However, if you really want to renovate the Falcon then, if it was mine and I wanted to do it up as a plinker, not as a collectable in a collection, I would strip the stock back to bare wood, stain it with something like a Peruvian Mahogany stain, add Danish oil for maybe 6 coats and end up with a decent looking, glossy stock. If you do not want to use Danish oil... why not a good durable varnish for the plinker? The action I would cold blue (cost of cold blue preparation approx £7.00 and you can do more than 1 rifle with it) or, if desparatee, a spray on black coating ... but cold blue would be better and more satisfying to do. Factor in any spares you might need, but most you could do yourself e.g breech seal, piston washer. You may or may not need a new spring but I suspect the spring in the rifle would be OK for short range plinking.
The biggest cost of all this would be your time and I suspect you could do most of it in a day. The stock finishing would take longer as the stain/Danish oil/varnish needs to dry between coats.
Cheers, Phil
Administrator
That's not too bad David
Some of the marks you think need removing would probably not show if you Fume/Rust blued it.
Deep and wide pits are the only ones I bother about now though I did leave a couple on my 77 :-
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...1012006294.jpg
All the best Mick
Where's his User name?
Those photos are inspirational mick... I really need to nail this rust bluing this year!
Donald
Registered User
Wow what had they done to that? Chucked it in a pond?That's not too bad David
Some of the marks you think need removing would probably not show if you Fume/Rust blued it.
Deep and wide pits are the only ones I bother about now though I did leave a couple on my 77 :-
http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...1012006294.jpg
All the best Mick
Very well done!
Registered User
Emery, which is Corundum, which is Aluminium Oxide is generally for metal - but it can do wood or plastic if needed.
It can be waterproof i.e. Wet & Dry - the water helps with the products cutting action.
B&Q type papers - I assume you mean Glass Paper? are for wood & are a lot weaker, they are crushed glass powder stuck to paper - it's a long time since sand paper was actually made with sand.
In theory you could use it to finish metal, polish out pitting etc. but you would get through an immense amount compared to Emery, & you couldn't use it wet.
If B&Q do an Emery Paper, Wet & Dry etc. then it will probably be as competitve with any other brand of Emery Paper as anything else that B&Q does.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emery_%28mineral%29
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