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Thread: the best way to get rid of pitting on a project rifle

  1. #76
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    Mick keep us updated with your progress
    how do you know when to start boiling and for how long do you boil.
    i have taken a few days off from sanding my action i was getting pissed off .

    are you taking plenty of pictures of the process with this rifle you are doing now
    cheers
    David

  2. #77
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    Great stuff.. the first thing I did when I moved into this new house was nab the electric fire for my shed!!
    Donald

  3. #78
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    Not that it is really suitable in this instance (due to cost), but where the finances makes sense laser welding can be used to fill the pits convincingly. You will still need to file down afterwards of course, but you won't be filing away 'good' metal to try and disguise the pits. The likes of Carr's Welding are also RFDs so can handle firearms repairs http://www.carrswelding.co.uk/firearms.html I'm sure others also exist.

  4. #79
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    Thanks For the link ash.
    The rifle is just an open sight plinker and not worth investing that much into it.
    I have replaced the spring and the breech seal that's about all I want to spend.
    Atb
    David

  5. #80
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    I have a few of those open sighted plinkers myself... but I wouldn't shell out for pit repairs either on them. Good to know for shotty barrels though, and I may be tempted with getting a hammer gun I recently purchased, which has a couple of 'mild' patches on the outsides, zapped.

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by valboskie View Post
    Mick keep us updated with your progress
    how do you know when to start boiling and for how long do you boil.
    i have taken a few days off from sanding my action i was getting pissed off .

    are you taking plenty of pictures of the process with this rifle you are doing now
    cheers
    David
    Hi David

    This gives a good idea of what you need to see before you rust : -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

    We're creating the rust in a different way to Mr Pottersfield but the rust formation and boiling time is just the same.

    The powered wire brush is a bit of a no go for airguns as their actions tend to be a bit more complicated than that of a cartridge rifle or shotgun so I stick with wire wool.


    I'm not bluing an action at present, I'm bluing 6" lengths of 12mm hydraulic pipe as a test --- these make excellent test pieces as you can spin them up in a drill to polish them.
    Doing a few test pieces is worth trying as it gets you used to the process and also shows up any problems before you move on to a gun --- so far my test pieces have shown that my new heated cabinet is scrap and that I need to build a bigger one.




    All the best Mick

  7. #82
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    another small fan heater came into my possession today, Im wondering if a tank within a tank would be better idea - Im thinking insulated box with my big tupperware box inside, fan heater, or electric fire sitting beside the insulated box - and in summer - paint it black!
    Donald

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Hi David

    This gives a good idea of what you need to see before you rust : -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuP4m6L95K4

    We're creating the rust in a different way to Mr Pottersfield but the rust formation and boiling time is just the same.

    The powered wire brush is a bit of a no go for airguns as their actions tend to be a bit more complicated than that of a cartridge rifle or shotgun so I stick with wire wool.


    I'm not bluing an action at present, I'm bluing 6" lengths of 12mm hydraulic pipe as a test --- these make excellent test pieces as you can spin them up in a drill to polish them.
    Doing a few test pieces is worth trying as it gets you used to the process and also shows up any problems before you move on to a gun --- so far my test pieces have shown that my new heated cabinet is scrap and that I need to build a bigger one.




    All the best Mick
    Hi Mick I watched the video thanks for the link.
    The guy made it look easy with all the right tools and equipment.
    What's was wrong with your tank that your test pieces never worked out.
    Atb
    David

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by valboskie View Post
    What's was wrong with your tank that your test pieces never worked out.
    Atb
    David
    Hi David

    I made my heated cabinet out of an old bath with a radiator in it like this :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...2032012545.jpg

    I thought that with the door fitted the area above the radiator would work as a big heated rusting tank, but it didn't, as no rust formed on the test pieces.

    So I put a rusting tank inside the heated cabinet above the radiator :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5345518b.jpg

    And inside this are my test pieces rusting away :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psdaab9e60.jpg

    As you can see they're already pretty well on their way to being blued





    All the best Mick
    Last edited by T 20; 26-02-2014 at 11:35 PM.

  10. #85
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    Mick it looks like you have cracked it for cold weather rust bluing.
    I will keep sanding away till Donald gets set up and I can see how it is done.
    I have sourced a small two hob camping gas stove for the boiling I just need to find a suitable
    Metal box to boil in ..
    I will have to do it outside as my shed Is metal so no good for rusting.

    How do you stop the action from rusting on the inside can you stuff it with rags or something like that
    Atb
    David

  11. #86
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Hi David

    I made my heated cabinet out of an old bath with a radiator in it like this :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...2032012545.jpg

    I thought that with the door fitted the area above the radiator would work as a big heated rusting tank, but it didn't, as no rust formed on the test pieces.

    So I put a rusting tank inside the heated cabinet above the radiator :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5345518b.jpg

    And inside this are my test pieces rusting away :-

    http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/...psdaab9e60.jpg

    As you can see they're already pretty well on their way to being blued





    All the best Mick
    Nice bit of improvisation. I guess something like 2714099703 on fleabay would be even more ideal if the price was right.

  12. #87
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    I could not get the flea bay link to work.

  13. #88
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Yes, you are right, it doesn't work. It seems I lost the last three digits when I cut and pasted the number. The correct number is 271409970308.
    The price at the moment is reasonable, but there's only one day to go, and it is pick-up only, from Merseyside.

  14. #89
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    What about an old fridge?

    Perfectly sealed so you won't rust anything else in the vicinity.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by battyone View Post
    What about an old fridge?

    Perfectly sealed so you won't rust anything else in the vicinity.

    An old fridge or deep freeze would be ideal if you could find a rusting box and heater the right size to fit inside.

    I'm going to do things the other way round, if I find the right size rusting box I'll build a heat box to house it and the heater I have.


    Another thing I've found you need to watch out for is to make sure the acid is at the same temperature or cooler than the steel to be blued.

    If the acid gets hotter than the steel then you create condensation which wets the steel instead of the fairly dry fuming you need to create rust.

    I've had to lift the rusting box away from the radiator and put the acid pot on top of some insulation inside the box to stop it getting hotter than the steel --- I'm getting a much better rusting this way.




    All the best Mick

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