Minimum pyrodex "P" powder charge

[Zero58]

Morning members would like to know what is the minimum pyrodex P charge I can try in a .44 BP revolver I am using as listed
1. Pyrodex P powder
2. 454 ball lubed
3. 30mm lubed felt wad
4. Filler is couscous
I would like to go down to 15gr I'm using 18gr at moment will it be safe to do this I don't want a stuck ball in barrel any advise please
Please no comments on black powder Vs pyrodex as my club only allows pyrodex to be used but any ref to BP measure FFFG is welcome please remember I only want minimum charge. Done all the higher ones and had a lot of fun doing it thank you from Frank

[Voodoo]

18 grains is already pretty low ! Most people I know dont drop below 20 grains as that drops you below 600fps I'm told ?
Mine is most accurate at 27 grains. Any reason you want it so low ?

[Zero58]

18 grains is already pretty low ! Most people I know dont drop below 20 grains as that drops you below 600fps I'm told ?
Mine is most accurate at 27 grains. Any reason you want it so low ?

Have not found the sweet spot yet am near to it I also have pain in my shooting hand old age creeping on

[lostcat]

Unsafe to use a charge that leaves the ball in the barrel. Next one up can split the barrel or cylinder.scrap pistol at best.
.36 softer recoil,still plenty accurate.

[Turnup]

Apart from the risk of a stuck ball, I see no danger with light loads. Try it, but do check the barrel is clear after each shot until you are sure they are leaving the gun.

The worst that can happen is you get a ball stuck in the mouth of the chamber. This can make it impossible to remove the cylinder, so ram it back into the chamber, remove the chamber, and then dig the ball out, either with a worm, or by removing the nipple and driving it out with a rod - it won't be stuck very firmly. I have removed a ball with filler but no BP behind it with a technique similar to the kinetic bullet puller - sharp rap mouth down on to a piece of wood - the ball moves forwards because of its inertia, and dig it out with a penknife - might take several tries. Bit of a faff but no disaster. Also suggest loading only one chamber at first, 'cos you don't want to be faffing around with a stuck ball in a cylinder with 5 other loaded chambers.

I found that light loads of Pyrodex in my ROA (IRRC around 18gn BP equivalent) gave noticeably slower ignition, almost to the point of hangfires (distinct phut-bang), but they all left the barrel.

15 gn BP equivalent seems like a very low load, but you might discover something interesting.

[john paul]

I use 24grain of Pyrodex in my Remington .44 Euroarms. However it prefers 777 - and after experimenting 24 grain again works best. My Colt .36 Sheriff loves Pyrodex 18 grain best load.

Experimented over the years with various fillers i.e. moving ball forward closer to barrel and found no real difference. Made my own wads bought wads experimented with lubes. Cast my own balls - this is certainly worth doing.

All I do now is load and cover ball over with Trex - see Morissions /Asda Veg oil stuff used for cooking American's call it something different Crisco I think. To make thicker I melt in some beeswax - furniture type.

Just my 2 pence worth... ATB..

[waterford103]

32 gr 777 - accurate and you know you've fired it .

[airgunnut]

i was always told if there is too little powder it could detonate rather than propel, don't know if it true but i still would not go under the minimum recommended load