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Thread: What oil for a walnut stock?

  1. #1
    Scarecrow Guest

    Question What oil for a walnut stock?

    As above really. Have just bought a new rifle, and paid a bit extra for a walnut stock - a first for me. In everyone's experience, is there a specific oil I should use on a walnut stock?

    Cheers guys.

  2. #2
    Kev. (Cambs.) Guest
    Sorry, but it must be said,......DO A SEARCH......

    I've personally contributed to at least 3 threads in as many weeks, I know there is a lot of information in the archives.

    First thing though, be aware that it is most unlikely that your stock is 'in the bare', hence will need to be stripped back to the wood before oiling.

  3. #3
    Scarecrow Guest
    Problem with doing a search on here using 'oil' or 'walnut' as search keywords throws up a load of non-related threads. I try and log on here at least once a day, and generally keep up with topics as they are posted. Don't remember seeing anything on this subject which is why I posted the question. Sorry to have taken up your time (but you didn't have to reply) so I'm not sorry really!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    walnut oil

    I am using somthing called english walnut oil preparation,prepared for david nickerson by phillips game technology which i brought from my local gun smiths.seems to do the job.(phone no. on box 014720840536)

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    chris ballard Guest
    Just using plain walnut oil from Tesco's. Seen it on a couple of websites...seems to work and it wont hurt ya mitts

    Someone let us know if this is a bad idea

  7. #7
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris ballard
    Just using plain walnut oil from Tesco's. Seen it on a couple of websites...seems to work and it wont hurt ya mitts

    Someone let us know if this is a bad idea
    I was going to go down this route untill I was told that raw Walnut Oil does not dry, & remains tacky on the surface.
    I have not yet tried it myself.

  9. #9
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    wood-stock oil

    I stripped a 1970's walnut stock on a browning shotgun because i had to raise some dents in it.
    Then i applied Rustins Danish Oil by brushing it liberally till it was saturated.
    Then I rubbed it in using cotton -cloth pads till a slight sheen started to form.
    Then I hung it to dry and the process repeated till the right depth and contrast was showing in the wood.Its a long process but worth it.

  10. #10
    Kev. (Cambs.) Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Scarecrow
    Sorry to have taken up your time (but you didn't have to reply) so I'm not sorry really!!
    Sorry that you're (not) sorry, but if a search is too much trouble/complicated for you - best you leave the stock refinishing to the professionals



    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?t=68659

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?t=66795

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?t=66965

  11. #11
    Scarecrow Guest
    Thanks Coney and thanks Kev (eventually), some good threads there with just the sort of information I was looking for.

  12. #12
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    Hi we only use Webleys trade secret it comes in two small bottles you can order it direct from them, it is great stuff we won't use anythingelse, we have tried other products but give up on them.


    Regards

    Jo

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris ballard
    Just using plain walnut oil from Tesco's. Seen it on a couple of websites...seems to work and it wont hurt ya mitts

    Someone let us know if this is a bad idea
    That's what I use too. A liberal amount rubbed in with a cloth, left overnight then wiped off next morning. ( I use it on beech stocks too).
    Stan

  14. #14
    chris ballard Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Troubledshooter
    I was going to go down this route untill I was told that raw Walnut Oil does not dry, & remains tacky on the surface.
    I have not yet tried it myself.
    Funny that, cos if anything, it dries too quick

    Smells loveley and cant really do any harm.

    Logun actually say to use it in the Axsor manual (If I remember right).

    Not sure about frequency etc, going to ask Chambers on this one.

    Just tried the oil out of an old london kit from Chambers, much thicker and crusty round the top of the bottle. Seemed to go on well.

    Even though my stock is new, it has some little fissures in the grain. Might try old london filler wax. This is designed for an oiled finish...I will ask chambers again.

    The non drying comment could be because the fresh oil has not been boiled and wont oxidise as quickly as the boiled stuff in kits. It seems to dry on mine though.

  15. #15
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    Danish oil

    Danish Oil Use Danish oil (any make) The beauty of this oil is that you can slurp it on with no skill at all and after a few minutes wipe it all off and leave it to dry, then burnish it with a soft cloth. Won't darken the wood either. Bare wood needs three coats.

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