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Thread: HW97 thread locked

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    HW97 thread locked

    Hi guys , I recall recently someone mentioning excess bluing salts locked the end cap thread on a 97, well I have received a 97 for sorting yesterday and upon attempting to unscrew the end cap found it locked solid!

    what was used to release the thread, I don't want to heat it up or use brute force if it can be helped?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Artfull-Bodger View Post
    Hi guys , I recall recently someone mentioning excess bluing salts locked the end cap thread on a 97, well I have received a 97 for sorting yesterday and upon attempting to unscrew the end cap found it locked solid!

    what was used to release the thread, I don't want to heat it up or use brute force if it can be helped?
    I think it was a combination of heat and brute force

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    an old leather belt.......a big vice.........and some stilsons.....
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artfull-Bodger View Post
    Hi guys , I recall recently someone mentioning excess bluing salts locked the end cap thread on a 97, well I have received a 97 for sorting yesterday and upon attempting to unscrew the end cap found it locked solid!

    what was used to release the thread, I don't want to heat it up or use brute force if it can be helped?
    It was Bigtoe.

    He said he had to get the cylinder that hot to get one apart it fubared the spring guide.

    It's on his blog in my siggy.



    All the best Mick

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    will be making a new guide so that's not such a problem but how hot did he get it !

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    Quote Originally Posted by Artfull-Bodger View Post
    will be making a new guide so that's not such a problem but how hot did he get it !
    Hot enough to shag the guide. ,

    If you read Tony's blog edit, he gives details of what to soak the block in to release the salts --- Dewatering oil for one day.



    ATB Mick

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    If it is salts that is the problem, take the trigger out and drop the end of the action is a bucket of wd40 or similar for a day or so...then try again. if its loctite its going to need heat and lots of it.
    Last edited by bigtoe01; 23-03-2014 at 10:57 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigtoe01 View Post

    If it is salts that is the problem, take the trigger out and drop the end of the action is a bucket of wd40 or similar for a day or so...then try again. if its loctite its going to need heat and lots of it.
    ...... and then some until dull red starts to show, then quench in an oil, as a water quench will cool too quick which would (a) over tense and harden making threads brittle, or worse, could cause the thin metal to split, which if that happens, could equate to a very costly game over situation ......
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    I did not get it that hot, i just applied heat gently till the thread smoked BUT by that time the spring guide had gone also...

    Next time I will just drop the action in with Colin Molloy and ask him to drop the trigger end in his hot caustic tank, the guide will be gone still but no excessive heat will be needed

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    Guns with this problem keep turning up, don't they?

    Poor state of affairs.
    Arthur

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigtoe01 View Post

    I did not get it that hot, i just applied heat gently till the thread smoked BUT by that time the spring guide had gone also...

    Next time I will just drop the action in with Colin Molloy and ask him to drop the trigger end in his hot caustic tank, the guide will be gone still but no excessive heat will be needed
    A perfect solution, quite literally (did you see what I did, there ??? ). Ha ha. Atb: G.
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    I remember having a similar problem once with a Rapid where the preload adjuster just wouldn't move because loctite had leached into the threads. The problem was compounded by the previous owner using a wrong-sized allen key thus mullering the 'key hole' (what DO you call the recess in which you insert the allen key btw??). This meant I had to use a close fitting torx bit to get a decent grip. Once I had got a proper grip and before being able to wind the adjuster out I had to heat it quite a bit with a blowlamp and fully expected to lose the plastic spring guide and top hat and possibly the hammer spring too. In the event I didn't have to replace anything. Where heat is concerned you CAN be lucky.
    'It may be that your sole purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others'.

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    Well here's an interesting one, I managed to separate the end cap today, heated it up smoking hot, after a bit of persuasion it came undone, an inspection of the threads showed no Loctite or any corrosion so was a little mystified, until that is I went to screw it back together for a cocking test, using hand tight pressure I found the scope rails 3mm out when tightened, at first I thought there must be something stopping it but the joint had butted up tight, it was then the penny dropped, the end cap or cylinder were not machined to length correctly, and someone at the factory must have used brute force and ignorance to overtighten the joint and line the rails up!

    I had to machine a couple of thou off the end cap shoulder to get a hand nipped up alignment, once done the rifle strips and assembles correctly!

    This rifle is one of the blue laminates , that's a £400 rifle that some buffoon threw together, it was also twanging horribly!

    Pleased to say it's now producing 795fps with exact express after collapsing three coils to bring it under, and smooth and quiet!

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    I do so love a happy ending . Cheers: G.
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    Weihrauch quality is getting beyond a joke.

    400 quid and you get to do your own machining.
    Arthur

    I wish I was in the land of cotton.

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