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Thread: how do you shoot yours?

  1. #1
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    how do you shoot yours?

    Gas rams that is...

    Having acquired my first.. a sirocco classic pre he, its a lot livlier than my springers.. I havent got a scope on it at the moment so I cant judge if my hold is good, but I just wanted to see if the artilary hold is what everyone uses with theirs... tips and tricks this way please.
    Donald

  2. #2
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    Artillery hold, the looser the better, seems the harder you try to tame them the more unruly they become. Try resting the fore end on your hand rather than gripping it.

  3. #3
    secretagentmole Guest
    Artillery hold here, gives superb accuracy!

  4. #4
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    Artilary Hold

    I keep reading about how the artilary hold is best for springers. It certainly works well on my HW97 (.177 & tuned) - I can get nice tight grouping keeping a light hold.

    But I also have a Remington Express (.177 which is also tuned but nowhere as sweet as the HW) and that seems to be more accuarate if I hold the stock more tightly... Gripping the fore seems to help me hit the bullseye. If I keep it loose, the grouping gets much wider. I've also read that some weight at the end of the barrel can help tame a rifle (e.g. silencer).

    So should you be adopting different holds for different rifles?

    I'd be interested in getting people's opinions as the artilary hold doesn't seem to work for me on all of my rifles.

  5. #5
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    Due to the faster cycle of a rammer, I've found that you can actually get away with holding it a little tighter than you would with a springer...

  6. #6
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    good question Donald. i have hardly shot my evo for this reason. i gave up trying to get it to shoot good groups. i had not shot an airgun for years until i got my HW99s and even then i have not shot it much as its in bits for tuning and refinishing the stock.

    my evo came with a weaver v series 3-9x50 scope and i put the tasco silver antler 3-9x40 from the HW99s onto the evo. but i have not zeroed it yet

    i need to get out with the evo and give it a go .if i don't get on with it i may end up selling it or swapping it for a HW80k which i used to shoot all the time before i got my anschutz .22lr .

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by secretagentmole View Post
    Artillery hold here, gives superb accuracy!
    Agree here with a .22 pre HE.

  8. #8
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    Grand prix

    It's FAC 20 ftlb, it needs to be held firmly, very accurate with crossman accupells, I have plenty in stock!
    Let a friend try it and he said it reminded him of his SLR, not theobens but the real thing! David

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by secretagentmole View Post
    Artillery hold here, gives superb accuracy!
    Same. Sirocco HE. Do not like the snappiness, but it hits where it is pointed.

  10. #10
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    Rifles under 8lbs need holding a bit. A true artillery hold leaves lighter weight rifles too much to their own devices.
    Some do and some don't need controlling. Some then too soft a hold and some too gripped just doesn't work. Try different things, but try to be methodical and test fully not just first attempt. Once found prove it. Bottom line is standing unsupported, on lightest of support of hand.
    Most of my Theoben's have been in .177 and all behaved as well as any springer. All could "keep it there".

  11. #11
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    i dont use the artilliery hold i sit at my table and rest the forend directly on my bean bag. my left hand fingers lightly go under the tip of the butt adjusting the aim i make sure my trigger hand touches the bean bag every time this means that the forend is in the same position on the bag and i make the hold as consistant as i can. dont grip with you trigger hand keep it all loose i and keep remembering to keep my head down.

  12. #12
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    Artillery Hold or not?

    Thanks for the feedback.

    So on under 12 lbs/sq ft springers, is it fair to say that heavy rifles (like my HW97) benefit from the artillery hold while lighter-weight rifle (like my Remington Express) need a tighter grip up front?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by W&SP View Post
    Thanks for the feedback.

    So on under 12 lbs/sq ft springers, is it fair to say that heavy rifles (like my HW97) benefit from the artillery hold while lighter-weight rifle (like my Remington Express) need a tighter grip up front?
    Springers are weird - some of them like one hold, some others. Ultimately only trial and error with your actual rifle will tell you what works with that particular gun.

    My experience is a bit different from Muskett's and is that, in general (in general):

    - Heavy springers are more tolerant of variations in hold than light ones. Especially conventional underlevers, as they have weight up front where it counts.

    - Light, powerful springers (especially un-tuned or inherently rather inefficient ones) absolutely need a light hold, as they boing about a lot and you have to let them do that. Examples from my experience would include Beeman/Webley C1 carbine, Webley Xocet, BSA Supersport (the Brum one, not the Spanish rubbish).

    - Mid-power lightweight springers like proper BSA Meteors and old Diana 27s are fairly tolerant of different holds.

    Weight out front (silencer, "muzzle brake") tends to reduce hold sensitivity.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
    Springers are weird - some of them like one hold, some others. Ultimately only trial and error with your actual rifle will tell you what works with that particular gun.

    My experience is a bit different from Muskett's and is that, in general (in general):

    - Heavy springers are more tolerant of variations in hold than light ones. Especially conventional underlevers, as they have weight up front where it counts.

    - Light, powerful springers (especially un-tuned or inherently rather inefficient ones) absolutely need a light hold, as they boing about a lot and you have to let them do that. Examples from my experience would include Beeman/Webley C1 carbine, Webley Xocet, BSA Supersport (the Brum one, not the Spanish rubbish).

    - Mid-power lightweight springers like proper BSA Meteors and old Diana 27s are fairly tolerant of different holds.

    Weight out front (silencer, "muzzle brake") tends to reduce hold sensitivity.
    Thanks, that helped!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    i dont use the artilliery hold i sit at my table and rest the forend directly on my bean bag. my left hand fingers lightly go under the tip of the butt adjusting the aim i make sure my trigger hand touches the bean bag every time this means that the forend is in the same position on the bag and i make the hold as consistant as i can. dont grip with you trigger hand keep it all loose i and keep remembering to keep my head down.
    Hi doing as above works providing the bag is soft enough, otherwise it will bounce like a jack rabbit. A better method is rest your hand on the bag first cradle the fore end lightly with your fingers and with your left elbow on the bench, the bag just helps slightly with stability, its the backdoor way of easing you into unsupported shots.
    mk2 rapid.22

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