Hard or soft?
Originally Posted by
dodgyrog
Why on earth do you want HARD boolits when the proper mix is more than adequate. Boolit fit is what it is all about; that and a good lube. Hard boolits are sold because the supplier doesn't want them to deform or arrive looking anything less than pristine when they are delivered. I mix my lead to give the right result for any velocity and vary the mix according to the use of the boolit.
I was on Century range at 600 yards at the weekend using my Schmidt Rubin 96/11 with cast boolits at around 2000fps and hitting the black (iron sights don't help with these old eyes!) and they were not as hard (or even close) as GM boolits. The barrel was shiny and clean after 30 rounds - no leading whatsoever.
If your powder will not ignite then I'd change primers - I use Russian made Large Pistol Primers in my 44 mag Marlin loads and they all go bang - yes with 22gr 2400.
I've been experimenting with soft cast bullets in my microgrove Marlin. We've all heard how you can only use extra hard lead in microgrove or else! Well I've been trying out the idea of bullet base upset where the back of the bullet tries to go quicker than the front while it's still in the barrel. With soft (ish) lead (6 to 12 on the BHI scale, 20 being V hard) the back of the bullet expands in diameter a tad and obturates the rifling. I always use bullets sized a thou or two above the boresize as well.The kiss of death for my Marlin is very hard lead and undersized bullets and I may just as well use buckshot in a shotgun. I've even tried driving swaged hollow based wadcutters up to 1000fps with good accuracy and no leading. The secret, as dodgyrog states, is good lube and good bullet fit. I use a homemade blend of beeswax and carnauba wax dissolved in white spirit and tumble lubed. This will give me clover leaf groups at 25 yds all day.
[I]DesG
Domani e troppo tardi