Lets talk about lube.... which do you prefer??

[TheWilding]

I'm getting close to final re-assembley of the Model 24D, and have made a start on the Hy-Score/6M and was wondering, what lube does everyone use in their match/target springers, both pistol and rifle (as I'm currently building both)...If any??

I've read on a couple of threads that some use moly grease very sparingly on the pressure ends of the springs, some use teflon impregnated oil and some nothing at all.... I believe FWB advise to not lube anything on the 300, only for assembley purposes, as it can cause inconsistencies from shot to shot, if its not there it cant cause the inconsistency.... if I follow this method I presume to assume that all mating surfaces MUST be polished to a mirror for it to work properly/smoothly


So before I go slapping oodles of moly over my spring on the 24D to cut out twang... or spend another couple of hours polishing from the 500 grit I've been using down to 2000grit and a polish with Tcut...... what would you do and why??


And while we're about it.... what would you use to lube your piston seal, and why??


Cheers in advance for any input


Sean

[andrewdorset]

Hi , just re sealed a 6g Original . I used moly on the rack and cogs and metal parts of piston and springs and silicon grease on the seals. I am experiencing inconsistency for the first 5 or 6 shots, then it settles down. I only need to leave it for 1/2 an hour and the inconsistency appears again.??? I am assuming that it is dieseling so i guess i must have greased it too much. I t was only a smear with a finger so perhaps non at all ??

[TheWilding]

My Mod 24 dieseled for only the first 4 pellets then stopped when I tested it last weekend, after that nothing, I'd have it apart again and give it a good clean in the compression chamber and TP, I never lube my compression tube, just around the back of the piston seal so it doesnt drag it off when cocking, from there it can spread its own lube where it wants/needs it.


This half the reason I posed the original question as what ive read on match springers flies in the face of what I'd do in a conventional 12fpe rifle

If your inconsistencies are being caused by moly/deiseling it might be worth trying it grease free for a dozen or so shots and see what happens, Ive got some ptfe impregnated oil here left over from a TW Chambers kit, I might be tempted to try that on my GISS and the Model 24 spring seats only and the tiniest slip of moly on the seal back.


Just a thought.... have you re-sized your seal to fit the compression tube? Ive had to do it to the 24D and the quick look Ive had at the 6M says I'll probably need to on that too.... it makes a hell of a difference to initial fps, and if you do it with 120grade sand paper it gives the moly somewhere to live


Sean

[hwtyger]

I used moly in my ex anschutz 250 and webley tempest.
They never dieseled.
Just clean out the compression tube (no degreasing!).
Add a tad of moly on all parts (NOT in front side of seal!!, and wipe off excess on seal sides).
No polishing except when there are burrs.
Those slight inconsistancies keep the lube in its place.

[Olas]

Last time I stripped/lubed my 97k, I started with brake cleaner to make sure it was clean,

a thin smear of moly on the finished end of the spring that sits on the spring guide,
a thin smear of moly where the tophat pushes into the finished end of the spring,
a thin smear of moly on both sides of the washer that seperates the tophat from the liner
an almost invisible super thin smear of moly on the outside of the piston
and just as a a bit of an experiment to satisfy my curisoty - a thin coating of red rubber grease on the OD of the spring, just a tiny amount which seems to have helped with smoothness.

i have no dieselling, no inconsistency but loads of lubes left over that I wont use for ages!

less is more though, seriously, I used about 1 teaspoon full of grease altogether, thats including both the moly and the RRG. You hardly need any at all!!