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Thread: Diana/original model 6g

  1. #1
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    Diana/original model 6g

    Does anyone know how to check if the springs in the giss system on a 6g pistol are worn or u/s. My pistol shoots at 210 fps, is accurate but i feel needs more oomph. Read they should shoot at 450 fps. Changed the seals so i can only think the springs are tired, but i would like to be able to check this before ordering new ones. Anyone ?

  2. #2
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    I just built my Hy-Score and thought the same thing when I chronoed it, thing is atleast mine gives 350fps with 7gr Gecos, thats only just over 1fpe

    Sadly the wife has seen fit to stop gun time as she promised and Ive not experimented further

    It is consistent, the spread is between 348 and 352, and the geco pellets are very tight in the breech, so tried seating them further into the rifling, it didnt increase the fps at all, even so I did think that they were supposed to produce atleast a 100fps more than this

    I shot some testing shots into a couple of layers of A4 on my pellet catcher and on several occasions it barely broke the top 2 layers


    When I'm allowed I'll give fitting some pre load washers in and see if that produces any better results.

    Short of that I hope Mr Chambers has at least 2 sets of springs in stock next week



    Sean
    Slowly morphing into an RWS/Diana/Original fanboy.

    Definitely a springer fanboy.

  3. #3
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    So, got a pass for a couple of hours play time......


    I made some new shims for the back of the breach seal, I have set it so that the shoulder of the breach and the edge of the breach forks are parallel, I used very thin brass shim sheet, available at good model shops, I also turned the original breach seal over to use the newer face..... result of this..... fps is now upto 428fps average, 433 highest, 426 lowest, just thumbed into the breach, this drops to 388 if I seat it approx 4mm deep into the breach but I feel accuracy improves if I seat the pellet.


    I'm now off to tenrings to swat up on grip and techniques as I cant even get close to shooting a tidy group around the outside of an inch ring

    A quick note on that..... I dont like the front heavy weight of the pistol, I cant take the weight off as I was forced to glue it in place to strengthen the shroud as it was quite badly split, so I've endeavoured to balance it by adding lead weight inside the grip.... seems to work ok, once Ive worked on my grip and technique I'll know better.

    And another note on the grips..... I cant get on with them, the, for want of a better word, lump that is supposed to sit between the trigger and middle finger sits right up the middle of the middle fingerwhen I grip the pistol comfortably, making it uncomfortable I think I may have a go at making a new pair with palm swell and shelf etc added when I get the time, in the meantime I'll have to learn to shoot it as is



    Sean
    Slowly morphing into an RWS/Diana/Original fanboy.

    Definitely a springer fanboy.

  4. #4
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    original 6g

    I decided to replace the springs on my 6g anyway. I ordered from chambers and compared the lengths of the ones out of the gun.

    Old main was 270mm new one 285mm. The secondary springs were also down from 142mm and 145mm compared to the new ones at 150mm.

    I was intrigued by the two smaller springs being worn to different lengths ?

    The gun now shoots at 350 fps a great improvement but still low.

    Sean, What do you mean by the shim behind the breech seal and i dont get what you describe about making parallel.

    Would you please explain as it seems to have restored the fps to factory levels, which is what i would like to get. Andy.

  5. #5
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    Interesting stuff re the spring sizes, I'll probably end up buying new ones myself aswell as a new breach seal.


    Re the breach seal shims.... if you pop the breach seal out you'll find some shims of different thicknesses, these do 2 jobs 1/ they maintain pressure of the seal to the breach face and 2/ they can be used to alter the point of impact.


    I used some brass 0.15 thick sheet, and made a couple of new shims by drilling out the centre using a dremmel and cone stone and then trimming the outside with sharp scissors.


    I you look at the breach/barrel block you'll notice a shoulder where the curved top meets the flat side, I made sure this shoulder ran parallel with the top edge of the breach fork. It sort of made sense for it all to run in line.


    I believe that because the previous owner stored it with the barrel lock closed it crushed the O ring flat, adding the shims takes up what I lost due to the crush.


    It now has adjustment in the rear sight, as before I did it the Point of Impact was no where near the Point of Aim, despite the sight being wound down to its maximum.


    Now all I have to do is match the POI to the POA, and that is all to do with me and my sh!te technique


    Sean
    Slowly morphing into an RWS/Diana/Original fanboy.

    Definitely a springer fanboy.

  6. #6
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    Original 6g

    So what your saying is that by shimming out the rubber o ring breech seal in the barrel causes the barrel to point slightly lower ?, thus giving you more adjustment at the rear sight.

    Doesn,t this act against the barrel locking system, and over time wont this compress the o ring and cause the barrel to resume its original position leading to inconsistent accuracy ?

    My barrel shoulder seems parrallel to the cylinder so i am wondering if i shim the breech seal to sit further out then it may affect the parralels ?, mind you if i put a ruler along the barrel and

    compression tube then there is a visibly upward sit of the barrel. It isn,t bent but does angle upwards very slightly, so maybee shimming is the way to go.

    Do you store your pistol broken to avoid the seal compressing ?

    I agree about the technique for shooting these pistols, definitely an aquired art !!!! Andy.

  7. #7
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    It can cause inconsistencies, but only very minor, and no more than normal day to day use...... and yes it can crush the O ring again if left breach shut, so yes, I store all my Break Barrels with the breach open to help prevent it.


    I wouldn't worry about the barrel lock mech, as long as its past the middle of the ball it'll be applying full pressure when its closed, and I dont imagine it will add any more pressure to crush the ring any faster...... infact on my Model24D Bell Target rifle I had to shim a new O ring by over 0.5mm just so I could bring my rear diopter somewhere into the middle of its adjustment, it still seals as it should and shows no signs of flattening


    Re my technique, I've found the 'ten rings' web site invaluable in my efforts to improve, also RobinC on here and on CAPA is a huge source of training and weapon set up as he coaches and his wife shoots to a very high level, at the moment though I'm struggling with the grips and my hold, as they dont really fit me properly, as a consequence I'm considering making some that suit me better.


    Sean
    Last edited by TheWilding; 24-04-2014 at 09:29 PM.
    Slowly morphing into an RWS/Diana/Original fanboy.

    Definitely a springer fanboy.

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