Twitching gone but itching like mad

[deejayuu]

Here is the latest challenge

Any useful comments appreciated. All others will be enjoyed but not necessarily acted upon.

[Binners]

Here is the latest challenge

Any useful comments appreciated. All others will be enjoyed but not necessarily acted upon.

I have just been given a rifle that looks like this (Plastic not wood) Yours if you need it for spares.....

[flatrajectory]

Here is the latest challenge

Any useful comments appreciated. All others will be enjoyed but not necessarily acted upon.

Very nice.....Webley or Erma...?
Pete.

[Binners]

Very nice.....Webley or Erma...?
Pete.

Not having had it in my greasy mitts, and as someone just left it for me, I assumed it would be a crappy Crosman or alike.

[edbear2]

Not having had it in my greasy mitts, and as someone just left it for me, I assumed it would be a crappy Crosman.
or alike.

"Just left it for you"!.....What's going on here, has Johnbaz started taking on disciples, or started a secret society of jammy buggas?????

As you only know it's lever action, I hope it's a 50-110 express cal deluxe Mod 1886 mate (obsolete calibre)...That would pay for a nice new van!

Nice example



ATB, Ed

[deejayuu]

It's Erma Elg 10
Here's the spoiler which I forgot to add.



Read lots of good stuff about these including quality of build etc
Must say basic design fault at the site of this fracture.

edbear2 might be able to weld it!
I have at least three ideas buzzing round at the mo' and welcome any others.

Come on Binners I bet you've got a box of spares under the stairs.

[Binners]

It's Erma Elg 10
Here's the spoiler which I forgot to add.



Read lots of good stuff about these including quality of build etc
Must say basic design fault at the site of this fracture.

edbear2 might be able to weld it!
I have at least three ideas buzzing round at the mo' and welcome any others.

Come on Binners I bet you've got a box of spares under the stairs.

Sounds like that is all I have got

[davymole]

It's Erma Elg 10
Here's the spoiler which I forgot to add.



Read lots of good stuff about these including quality of build etc
Must say basic design fault at the site of this fracture.

edbear2 might be able to weld it!
I have at least three ideas buzzing round at the mo' and welcome any others.

Come on Binners I bet you've got a box of spares under the stairs.

hi dave there must be some good welders around Ruthin who could easy manage this if they weld tractor engine blocks (stich) this is an easy one ,dave

[edbear2]

hi dave there must be some good welders around Ruthin who could easy manage this if they weld tractor engine blocks (stich) this is an easy one ,dave

Hi Dave, unfortunately I would guess it is a coated die cast or zinc bearing grade of metal in the Aluminium spectrum that is not readily weld-able by the normal processes, but may respond to one of the braze repair type rods (Durafix / Lumiweld)...It will be a messy dirty job because of the coating (what is it...Anodizing?) , with the loss / discolouration of a lot of the coating area either side of the joint, or even all of it if using propane and supporting the two parts.

Some of this can be prevented by using a cold front heat absorbing gel.

http://www.elmerwallace.co.uk/Cold-F...op-Paste/7.htm

Which as you can see is not cheap!

I would go for a mechanical repair of some sort with sheet steel if there is room, as considering it has broken in service already, I would not think a braze / solder repair would hold it.

If it is cast Aluminium, then readily weldable by TIG but may be a case for heat treating before and afterwards, but without knowing the grade to match the rods to, again guesswork and possibly a waste of time.

Do the parts feel almost as heavy as steel, and do they have injection moulding witness marks like on toy cap guns or like these parts?....Is the broken area light grey and crystalline under a decent magnification...Then it is Sess Aitch One Tee (welder's code).

http://pedalpartsaustralia.com/images/1590A_Open.jpg

I don't have the gel or the Lumiweld kits unfortunately, and normally anybody putting anything diecast near my work bench has to go and find where I have thrown it!....I have done small cosmetic repairs to the horrendous stuff, but won't touch anything load bearing or structural as I don't know the initial composition and therefore cannot guarantee a sound repair.

ATB, Ed

[deejayuu]

Ha,Ha, brilliant edbear2 I thought it was the same chemical code when I first saw it. Spot on with grain/colour too.
Davymole I always thought I could weld razor blades underwater but could see then. 'Course I lied anyway.

Break is clean and clamps faithfully to fit.
The solder/weld route is my last resort 'cos it's a one shot risk as suggested.
Side frame is only 3mm thick so threading for fixings will need to be fine pitch.

Priority is to try fixes, easily reversed, leaving frame original using existing pivot/screw bosses as anchors
i) Cast some form of adhesive bond into voids with embedded reinforcing rods
ii) Adhesive bond flitch plates fabricated to fit profile of the voids
iii) Cast metal into voids as i)
iv) Fabricate a replica from scratch. No machine tools so, hand and eye and, will take some time!
v) Find a replacement

Maybe someone backed over one and bent the barrel

Any adhesive/casting specialists' tips welcome..