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  1. #1
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    Question Cracked stock

    I am seeking advice from the esteemed members of this forum (but not exclusively).

    Even though I had sworn off any BSAs post the Cadet Major series I relented and bought an Airsporter.
    Its the satin-black painted EN series in 0.177"

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psfd28b444.jpg

    My question is this; are they all prone to stock splitting in this region?
    A local wood turner artisan has recommended using titebond3 wood glue for a secure repair.

    Above
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps73754fae.jpg

    Below
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps953a654c.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psea80515f.jpg

    There is some oil/dirt to be removed first though. This contamination does not appear to be full depth, likely superficial.
    How can I best go about cleaning this prior to applying the glue?

    Cheers.
    Last edited by slow_runner; 12-05-2014 at 12:20 PM.

  2. #2
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    Feb 2007
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    Lytham St. Annes
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    Quote Originally Posted by slow_runner View Post
    I am seeking advice from the esteemed members of this forum (but not exclusively).

    Even though I had sworn off any BSAs post the Cadet Major series I relented and bought an Airsporter.
    Its the satin-black painted EN series in 0.177"

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psfd28b444.jpg

    My question is this; are they all prone to stock splitting in this region?
    A local wood turner artisan has recommended using titebond3 wood glue for a secure repair.

    Above
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps73754fae.jpg

    Below
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps953a654c.jpg

    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...psea80515f.jpg

    There is some oil/dirt to be removed first though. This contamination does not appear to be full depth, likely superficial.
    How can I best go about cleaning this prior to applying the glue?

    Cheers.
    Yes - they are all prone to splitting in that area. This may be exacerbated by not keeping the stock screws tight and/or over-enthusiastic cocking.

    I use a solvent such as isopropanol (available from Maplins or on E8ay) to clean the area before thumbing in some PVA adhesive (what your guy suggests sounds good) until it exudes from the other side of the crack and then clamping it lightly* to set.

    *If you clamp it too tightly, you will squeeze out all the adhesive which will defeat the purpose.

    P.S. If you intend sanding the stock, do it first, collect the sawdust and mix it in with the glue, especially where it will be at the surface. This will help to disguise the repair.
    Last edited by Airsporter1st; 12-05-2014 at 12:35 PM.
    Happy Shooting!! Paul.
    "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.

  3. #3
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    Crack

    Hi all the advice so far seems excellent. Never used Titebond myself but it looks good. You could also use Acetone to clean out the crack but it wont do the finish on the stock much good.
    The only extra advice I would give is do not be in any sort of a hurry about cleaning. Do it and let it dry well then do it again until you are fed up of cleaning it. How clean it is will reflect in the finished strength.
    Good luck.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Hi all the advice so far seems excellent. Never used Titebond myself but it looks good. You could also use Acetone to clean out the crack but it wont do the finish on the stock much good.
    The only extra advice I would give is do not be in any sort of a hurry about cleaning. Do it and let it dry well then do it again until you are fed up of cleaning it. How clean it is will reflect in the finished strength.
    Good luck.
    Absolutely correct - sorry for the omission.
    Happy Shooting!! Paul.
    "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.

  5. #5
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    I have to disagree with Paul on one aspect here, the less adhesive the stronger the bond and the more invisible it will be, to the point of complete invisibility.

    PVA has very good adhesion but it's actually rather soft, a lot of it makes for a weaker join. Unlike epoxy which sets hard.

    Carpenters will clamp-up all joints tightly when possible, the only thing to look out for is that sometimes you can deform the join by applying too much pressure resulting in it opening up in places and this is very true of a repair that is very awkward to clamp up like on a gun stock.

    If the break is clean you just wet it with the PVA and clamp it well and depending on your clamping skills you may very well make the repair 100% invisible. Only use fillers afterwards if the edges of the break have been damaged leaving missing wood.

    Looking at your pics the repair should come out very well the only reason it may be visible is that it's an old crack and has got dirty. Would be sortable if/when the stock were refinished, and again in such case the less glue you have the better because the crack will be incredibly fine.
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  6. #6
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    Just PVA glue - can be thinned slightly with water to get it into the crack - lightly clamp and wipe off the excess, allow to dry and jobs a good one, done correctly, repair should be almost invisible and as strong (if not stronger) than before!
    As Airsporter1st says - typical crack in the stock!
    Airsporterman
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