Smaller longer ports for softer shot feel ?

[Artfull-Bodger]

Sounds cool, got a link?

Try this Jon--

http://www./itm/10Pcs-AXK1528-Thrust...item27d79a0d51

[Shed tuner]

Try this Jon--

http://www./itm/10Pcs-AXK1528-Thrust...item27d79a0d51

Ta..!

[TonyL]

Try this Jon--

http://www./itm/10Pcs-AXK1528-Thrust...item27d79a0d51

Linky no worky for me.

[Artfull-Bodger]

Dang, just search for "needle roller thrust bearings" on Fleabay.

They took a while to arrive but there's ten in a pack, complete with hardened washers.

[Shed tuner]

I just put the item number 171120921937 from your link into that well known auction side and job done

[bigtoe01]

If the piston rotates you should not need a bearing within the piston...im all ears if it makes a difference however.

when i built my 80's i noted it took 12 shots for the piston to rotate 360deg...

[TheWilding]

If the piston rotates you should not need a bearing within the piston...im all ears if it makes a difference however.

when i built my 80's i noted it took 12 shots for the piston to rotate 360deg...

Don't ask me why I know this, but I do..... on Airsoft repeater rifles, even when fitted with a ball roller, thrust bearing, with guide plates, at the guide end, the piston, which are fully rotating as standard, still rotate when cycled... Last time I rebuilt and did any testing on one I counted an average of 30 to 35 shots to rotate 360 degrees.

And bear in mind the springs on Airsoft guns are ALOT softer than anything used in an Air rifle, even the high fps ones I used to use, so if its happening to them it must be happening to our Air rifles aswell if we only fit a bearing at one end.


Like I said above.... bearing at both ends... good.... at one end.... not so good, but still of benefit.


I think Soleware do a needle roller bearing for the Hatsan 55S & 60S as part of their tune-up kits, its advertised as being used to reduce torque turn, which if reviews are correct, they suffer with quite badly, but I have also read that they tend to collapse due to the high stress impossed by the spring.

Taking you fleetingly back to my Airsoft experiences even their ball thrust races used to collapse, most commonly was the cage holding the bearings would fall apart..... And these are not cheap crap, alot of them are brass or folded steel cages and high grade steel plates, with bearing tracks ground into their faces.

I prefer the idea of flat plate bearings, as they will take the spring compression load better and the larger surface area should be less frictionally challenged once the suction has broken, rather than the increased friction of the applied pressure on a dozen or so high points of the rollers..... one is harder to get going but gives less compression friction once it is moving, the other is easier to get moving but compression friction will be higher, but constant..... Then again I could be talking complete b0!!0x


ATB


Sean

[bigtoe01]

Sean

hardened thrust washer in nose of piston, same on rear guide, ertalyte tx tophat, same for a slip washer on the rear guide. 10x stronger than delrin and slippier than ptfe...

you do not need bearings that will break up when smashed with the forces an air rifle spring places on them.

add a rotating piston and you will never feel the torque twist

[Shed tuner]

Dang, just search for "needle roller thrust bearings" on Fleabay.

They took a while to arrive but there's ten in a pack, complete with hardened washers.

Mine just arrived - look excellent for the money, and virtually no friction at all, even under pressure
Even with a rotating piston these should help cocking, where the piston cannot rotate freely as it does on firiing.

[Snooper601]

Mine just arrived - look excellent for the money, and virtually no friction at all, even under pressure
Even with a rotating piston these should help cocking, where the piston cannot rotate freely as it does on firiing.

What size did you get Jon? I could only find 10 x 24 which won't fit inside a TX, HW77 or LGV piston. Ok for a HW 80 and a PE but we need some 10 x 20 for 25-26mm pistons.

Cheers

John

[Shed tuner]

What size did you get Jon? I could only find 10 x 24 which won't fit inside a TX, HW77 or LGV piston. Ok for a HW 80 and a PE but we need some 10 x 20 for 25-26mm pistons.

Cheers

John

These are fine for the rear guide (30mm cylinder on HWs and TXs) - don't want any more weight in the piston than I already have...

[TopDog]

Mine just arrived - look excellent for the money, and virtually no friction at all, even under pressure
Even with a rotating piston these should help cocking, where the piston cannot rotate freely as it does on firiing.

Hi Jon

Your In Box is full! Was trying to send you a PM!

atvb
David

[Shed tuner]

Hi Jon

Your In Box is full! Was trying to send you a PM!

atvb
David

Cleared

[NickG]

Just my two penneth on the soft shot feel front, My early ally pistons had no bearing at the front just the o ring, I now do them with a delrin piston head, which carries the o ring and acts as a bearing, they are identical otherwise, weight ,length etc. The delrin head has a noticeably softer shot feel than the ally head, I think its because it has a softer landing when it finally comes to rest. Its a bit crude as a test, but you even notice the difference when you drop them on to a bench. Now going to experiment with polyurethane piston head , or make my own seals from polyurethane, just got to find some at the sight price . Oh another idea is to groove the face of the piston to take an o ring as a buffer.