Walther Century ??

[Sprog]

Has anyone had one over a chronograph?

It's a nice gun. Is there anything one should do with a brand new gun to prolong the life? Do you need to put oil or preservative anywhere?

Here's my thoughts after a day or two... take the following for what it's worth as I've not used it yet.

The gun + scope is pretty heavy, the point of balance is midway along the reciever. The cocking linkage has the same 'guides' that run along the bottom of the reciever as found in the LGV.

The barrel catch has a nice quality feel to it. It's very sure when returning barrel. I had thought you would naturally want to thumb the catch and slide your hand down the barrel to the weight and then cock it... I was thinking a few years of this sliding would soon help remove the blueing. No, it is just as easy to let go of the barrel after you thumb the catch and then return your hand directly onto the weight. Nearly every old break-barrel springer I've ever seen has decent blueing everywhere except the barrel. I wish to avoid this if I can.

Several areas say 'quality' including the knurled nut and thread at the barrel tip, the barrel latch, even the butt pad is a good fit, though this may change with age and humidity.

Is the trigger guard plastic? I would have said metal if asked. The trigger blade is a 'plasticky' type of plastic.

Allen heads predominate. You are supplied an allen key to adjust the trigger weight and a second comes with the scope for the mount bolts (it also fits the front stock bolts) you need a third size allen key for the trigger guard bolts. I thought the scope allen key a bit loose fitting and the one from my own set was only slightly better. The mounts come already fixed to the scope, mine came with half of the bolts loose so a point to look out for.

The stock is nice. Is the cross-cutting and the name lazer-etched in the stock?

The supplied scope has thick bars on the left, bottom and right crosshair leaving a small gap of fine crosshair central. They subconsciously draw your eye to the centre. There are no gradients or marks on the crosshairs whatsoever.

The arrestor holes along the reciever are what 4 or 5mm diameter? The [reversable] arrestor stud on the mounts is about 2mm diameter, I put some tube over mine to increase the diameter and remove the metal-metal contact. It may be gentler to the scope on recoil? This stud seems best in the rearmost hole.

The scope comes with the type of dust-covers with the elastic rope between. The front cap is clear, the rear has a yellow lens. Why the tint?

Dislikes? The majority of the dislikes concern the scope or sighting system. If I'm honest I didn't care for that this is a scope-only gun... I'd have liked maybe the option of fitting iron sights down the line. I can see no way of doing this other than fitting a Terrus or LGV Master barrel. Unless yu can get a front blade in a 1/2in inf fitting? and a rear that fits in the dovetails? Is that possible? Or desirable?

The scope dials use a slot head to adjust, although if pressed, a small coin will fit the metal slot. Others I've used that you turned with fingertips are easier to adjust. A small gripe.

The loose-fitting allen key, the thick crosshair bars and their lack of gradients finish my gripe list. If the interior mechanics are the same quality as the fit and finish, I should be a happy camper.

p..s. I've not come across anything yet that says 'made in Germany'

later edit: a Terrus barrel lacks the barrel catch