Walther Century ??

[landymick]

Thats about it,the trigger housing is alloy like the LGV & LGU.The triggers on mine are standard UK metal blade with two adjusters.Its not a copy of the 35 the breach lock system has been used by Walther on the original LGV target rifle.

[bigtoe01]

Thats about it,the trigger housing is alloy like the LGV & LGU.The triggers on mine are standard UK metal blade with two adjusters.Its not a copy of the 35 the breach lock system has been used by Walther on the original LGV target rifle.

its the exact same unit fitted to the LGV and LGU but has a plastic DE sped blade in it...

for the UK we get the metal blade in the LGV/U, this however costs more, and lets be honest here the Century is just a way of pushing LGV actions out to sale without the complexity of the 25mm piston.

[gibboj]

HI just shoot one of these in .177 [not the best calibre for a springer imo] this one had a plastic trigger blade. the fit and finish is spot on, the cocking stroke was better than expected for a rifle straight out of box . the trigger had a very long first stage but broke very clean and predictable on the second stage [would have thought the first stage could be dialled out very easy ?] a very nice barrel lock up , nice barrel weight complete with 1/2 unf thread .all in all a very nice rifle imo [should be a lot better in .22] ,my only gripe was the weight ITS HEAVY HW 80 HEAVY .I reckon with a spit and polish tune up it it would be a great rifle, the only problem is its only about £20 cheaper than a hw95 ,will the scope on the century sway the deal I don't know ?

[gunstock]

when i saw it my first thoughts was of competition for the hw 80

[Sprog]

Thats about it,the trigger housing is alloy like the LGV & LGU.The triggers on mine are standard UK metal blade with two adjusters.Its not a copy of the 35 the breach lock system has been used by Walther on the original LGV target rifle.

I thought the trigger block was an XM unit but with 'synthetic' parts?, that the more expensive rifles [LGV/LGU] had the same design of trigger block, the XM unit, but was all metal.

Thus a Century owner disatisfied with the trigger unit could simple aquire a LGV/LGU unit and move it across to his century. That was my question.

[bigtoe01]

I thought the trigger block was an XM unit but with 'synthetic' parts?, that the more expensive rifles [LGV/LGU] had the same design of trigger block, the XM unit, but was all metal.

Thus a Century owner disatisfied with the trigger unit could simple aquire a LGV/LGU unit and move it across to his century. That was my question.

just the blade...

although looks like the german online stores have dropped the blade sales...anyone got a link for one?

found it listed... http://www.kotte-zeller.de/Walther-M...0191&ci=009964

[landymick]

No need to swap the whole unit just the trigger blade if you feel the need.Parts are due in UK in next couple of weeks if you don't want to order from Germany.
Mine has settled down a bit though still a whiff of diesel.

[bigtoe01]

No need to swap the whole unit just the trigger blade if you feel the need.Parts are due in UK in next couple of weeks if you don't want to order from Germany.
Mine has settled down a bit though still a whiff of diesel.

if you decide to strip the gun could you take some pics of the piston please?

[Sprog]

Has anyone had one over a chronograph?

It's a nice gun. Is there anything one should do with a brand new gun to prolong the life? Do you need to put oil or preservative anywhere?

Here's my thoughts after a day or two... take the following for what it's worth as I've not used it yet.

The gun + scope is pretty heavy, the point of balance is midway along the reciever. The cocking linkage has the same 'guides' that run along the bottom of the reciever as found in the LGV.

The barrel catch has a nice quality feel to it. It's very sure when returning barrel. I had thought you would naturally want to thumb the catch and slide your hand down the barrel to the weight and then cock it... I was thinking a few years of this sliding would soon help remove the blueing. No, it is just as easy to let go of the barrel after you thumb the catch and then return your hand directly onto the weight. Nearly every old break-barrel springer I've ever seen has decent blueing everywhere except the barrel. I wish to avoid this if I can.

Several areas say 'quality' including the knurled nut and thread at the barrel tip, the barrel latch, even the butt pad is a good fit, though this may change with age and humidity.

Is the trigger guard plastic? I would have said metal if asked. The trigger blade is a 'plasticky' type of plastic.

Allen heads predominate. You are supplied an allen key to adjust the trigger weight and a second comes with the scope for the mount bolts (it also fits the front stock bolts) you need a third size allen key for the trigger guard bolts. I thought the scope allen key a bit loose fitting and the one from my own set was only slightly better. The mounts come already fixed to the scope, mine came with half of the bolts loose so a point to look out for.

The stock is nice. Is the cross-cutting and the name lazer-etched in the stock?

The supplied scope has thick bars on the left, bottom and right crosshair leaving a small gap of fine crosshair central. They subconsciously draw your eye to the centre. There are no gradients or marks on the crosshairs whatsoever.

The arrestor holes along the reciever are what 4 or 5mm diameter? The [reversable] arrestor stud on the mounts is about 2mm diameter, I put some tube over mine to increase the diameter and remove the metal-metal contact. It may be gentler to the scope on recoil? This stud seems best in the rearmost hole.

The scope comes with the type of dust-covers with the elastic rope between. The front cap is clear, the rear has a yellow lens. Why the tint?

Dislikes? The majority of the dislikes concern the scope or sighting system. If I'm honest I didn't care for that this is a scope-only gun... I'd have liked maybe the option of fitting iron sights down the line. I can see no way of doing this other than fitting a Terrus or LGV Master barrel. Unless yu can get a front blade in a 1/2in inf fitting? and a rear that fits in the dovetails? Is that possible? Or desirable?

The scope dials use a slot head to adjust, although if pressed, a small coin will fit the metal slot. Others I've used that you turned with fingertips are easier to adjust. A small gripe.

The loose-fitting allen key, the thick crosshair bars and their lack of gradients finish my gripe list. If the interior mechanics are the same quality as the fit and finish, I should be a happy camper.

p..s. I've not come across anything yet that says 'made in Germany'

later edit: a Terrus barrel lacks the barrel catch

[bigtoe01]

p..s. I've not come across anything yet that says 'made in Germany'

have a look on the box or the destruction leaflet for where its made

[landymick]

Look on the R/H side breech block.
I would take a look at the spring end,it is cropped & needs re finishing.Some are gouging the top hat.

[Sprog]

I think there's a fair bit of confusion around this rifle and whether it has synthetic or metal parts. The review in Octobers 'Air Gunner' states the Century has a synthetic trigger, trigger guard and the block on the rear of the reciever (that holds the trigger and saftey switch) is likewise synthetic. You can see this in the accompanying photos as this trigger/safety block does look to have a different surface/finish than the reciever.

This is an image of the LGV being stripped, this is the trigger/safety block:

http://i970.photobucket.com/albums/a...p/P1010998.jpg

It looks like the LGV/LGU/Century all use the same design trigger block which in the above image is synthetic/plastic.

Mine is trigger/safety block is blued and cold to the touch, the trigger guard is the same, so I'm like 98% sure both are metal. I'm expecting that if I took the stock off my Century, I would see a metal trigger block where the above photo is synthetic/plastic.

Now having used it, I'm very happy with it.


Yes, I found the "Made in ... " ... mea culpa! :-) The only thing in the paperwork is a bar code beginning in '40'. Germany.

Lmick, I will bear that in mind if should ever look inside. Thank you.

[landymick]

The trigger housing is alloy which is black finish coating which is why the look is different to the blued metal parts.
Would you please check your spring they are rough,do it now to save wear on other parts.If you go on the other forum i have some pictures,i'm still trying to get them on here.
ATB

[Sprog]

The trigger housing is alloy which is black finish coating which is why the look is different to the blued metal parts.
Would you please check your spring they are rough,do it now to save wear on other parts.If you go on the other forum i have some pictures,i'm still trying to get them on here.
ATB

yes, but it's a metal... not a resin/plastic. It may be paint but it's a very good match for the reciever finish. The review is in error and has just added confusion. Usually they talk a product up.

p.s. I'm looking at images of the internals now on the 'other site', thank you.

[Sprog]

The DE spec LGV has a plastic blade, i have one here, it has 1 adjustment screw and not the 2 the metal blade has,I suspect the Century just uses the plastic blade to keep the cost down.

If im honest the feel of the plastic blade is really not bad, and one could mod the blade to have 2 screws if you really wanted. The plastic is not to givey so feels ok on the pull.

Apparently the importer here, Armex, asked for a metal triggers to be fitted to the LGV as standard.