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Thread: Sun Optics Adjustable Airgun Rings/Mount

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Addison, Maine. US
    Posts
    11

    Sun Optics Adjustable Airgun Rings/Mount

    FalconArts review of the Sun Optics Adjustable Airgun Rings/Mount.
    by: Lighthorse (Ken Leamy)

    Searching the web looking for adjustable rings can be quite a chore. I was finding prices ranging
    from $30 to $500. Being on a tight budget I started researching my options, ending with a set that
    cost 80, now with two more guns to go I searched some more and found the Sun Optics and
    figured I would give them a try.
    I did read were some had problems with screws and others with movement, but I figure for the price
    I would try it myself.

    So Here we go, I got the SM0130-30mm for 30mm tubes and 11mm rail.
    They come in both 1" and 30mm for both 11mm and standard dovetail rails.
    I know the package says 1", but theye were 30mm.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7889002b.jpg

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psc576ac94.jpg

    In the package. Everything looks well made. Screws are hardened steel, only way
    of messing them up that I can see is by not doing what I say in picture 4.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps1b2ee6dd.jpg

    You will notice an extra post. This Post (B) is tor a non locking rail, you can
    swap out post (A) which has a locking pin for post (B).

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps935399ca.jpg

    Now before you proceed to do anything, This is !!!!! VERY IMPORTANT !!!!!
    LOOSEN both grub screws. you will tighten them later.
    If you do not loosen them you will destroy the windage/locking screws.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps57829cd4.jpg

    Now remove the base locking screw and pull up and off the base. Now you can un-screw
    the post and switch it with the one without the locking pin if you wish.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9696aef4.jpg

    Look at the pivot ring and be sure it is set properly on the two windage screws.
    There are little indents for them to sit in. Mine was on one but not the other.
    If you have to, back off one of the screws and reset the ring.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psde90d8db.jpg

    Now that the ring is set on both screws look and center the ring so that it is in
    the center of the hole. OK, you have the ring on the windage pins and centered??
    Good, now replace the base and set the rings on your rail. Spin the base all the
    way down until tight, now back it off one turn. do this to both of them.

    At this point the rings will be a little lose. Don't worry when you are done they
    will be very solid. With the rings on your rifles rail set the scope in the rings
    lightly tighten, we want to be able to slide the scope forward or backward.
    With the scope lightly tightened shoulder the rifle and adjust the scope until you
    get a proper picture through the scope. slide the scope and rings forward or
    backwards until you can see through the scope clearly. Once you find that spot
    tighten the rings to the rail.

    Now tighten two screws (one on each side) on the rings and tighten the windage screws.
    DO NOT TOUCH the grub screw I said to loosen in Picture 4.

    Adjusting the Elevation:
    Set a target at 25yds, use a large cardboard so that you can spot where your pellet
    is hitting. If you are going to zero at 50yds and you know where the minimum crossover
    is then put your target at the minimum crossover. I am zeroing at 50 and my crossover
    is 25. Set a mark in the center of the board and draw a horizontal line and bench or
    bean your rifle. I will be using a bench rest.
    Line up your target and make your first shot. (I suggest going up with a marker and
    marking it so as to see it better.) Now that shot will be High, Low, Left or Right.
    Do not touch your turrets to adjust the scope. Instead we will adjust the scope with
    the rings until your shot is withen a few clicks of center.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps7d4ee152.jpg

    So let us say your shot was low and to the right (OK, that's where mine is), everything
    is still the same you need to follow your shot. So since we are low we will need to
    unscrew the screws holding the scope in the rings. Unscrew the rear scope mount one turn
    (moving the mount up), This will follow the shot down. If your first shot was high then
    you would be raising the front scope ring one turn. Now tighten the scope and with the
    scope still on the bench line up the target and take a second shot.
    If you are lucky you might be within an inch or so. If you are then skip down to adjusting
    the windage, If you are still low you will need to adjust another turn, at this point it
    depends on how low, you can adjust by a half a turn or a whole turn. Lets say when you
    adjusted it the first time it is now high, well you can turn it back a half a turn and
    try it. you want to get as as close to the horizontal line as possible. On the final inch
    you can use the turret for the final few clicks. When finished place the remaining 4
    screws in the top rings and then tighten in a cross hatch pattern.

    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psa2c9f258.jpg

    Adjusting the Windage:
    OK now you are as close as you can get to the horizontal line, now lets bring her home.
    To adjust the windage you need to also follow the shot. So you now have a line up one
    side or the other, mine is on the right, if yours is on the left you will adjust the
    opposite as I do.
    Adjustments are as if I am in back of the rifle and the barrel is pointed downrange.
    On the front ring I will loosen the right screw a little and tighten the left screw.
    On the rear ring I will loosen the left screw a little and tighten the right screw.
    Now line up you shot. Keep adjusting until it is on the center-line. Once you are
    centered move to your 50yd target and finish zeroing the scope in.
    NOW after the windage screws are tight, you can tighten the Grub Screws.
    I put a tiny bit of blue Loctite on them

    Note: If your zero line does not cross the 25yd and 50yd or you do not know where the
    50yd crosses don't put the last 4 screws in the top rings as you may need to make
    another adjustment when you sight in on your 50yd line.
    Remember do not adjust the turrets until you are as close as you can get at the zero
    distance you chose whether it is 30, 50 or 100 yards. You should be able to get the
    windage right on the money.

    All in all I have to say once you are done they are locked in and very solid. I would
    highly recomend these rings to anybody. and in my opinion they are much better than
    most of the higher priced rings out there.

    Ken
    Last edited by Lighthorse; 08-08-2014 at 04:41 PM.
    Lighthorse


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Addison, Maine. US
    Posts
    11
    Anyone know how I can get the img code turned on so the pictures show up in my review ??
    Lighthorse


  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Beaminster, West Dorset.
    Posts
    2,089
    Aren't these made by B-Square?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Hopton on Sea
    Posts
    971
    I have a similar one piece mount which is branded as BSA but is probably a B square rebadged. They are a great little mount for the money which was about £30 in my case I seem to recall.
    She was only an Admiral's daughter but her naval base was full of discharged seamen.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Addison, Maine. US
    Posts
    11
    Jim from B-Square is now at Sun Optics USA, he has retooled them and made them better.
    No more dimpling.
    Lighthorse


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