Feinwekbau 300S?

[NickG]

I thought about filling the slot some how, not sure what product to use though, i was considering one of the jb weld products...then i thought why not just fill it with silver solder maybe and hone it gently on the inside.

If you can still get it "devcon" is a two part cast iron paste, ie resin and cast iron. used to repair castings I think that would be ideal.

[Hsing-ee]

If you can still get it "devcon" is a two part cast iron paste, ie resin and cast iron. used to repair castings I think that would be ideal.

Sorry but the idea of putting that inside a Feinwerkbau target rifle, while probably eminently practical, 'gives me the boak'.

[DoctorBoudreau]

Sorry but the idea of putting that inside a Feinwerkbau target rifle, while probably eminently practical, 'gives me the boak'.

Waffencenter-Gotha sells spare comp tubes and pistons. Not terribly priced and no irreversible changes if you swap parts back in.

Devcon also makes steel and titanium putty. I'm just not sure how you'd exactly fill that hole and come up with a perfect surface. Maybe a delrin sheet or plug behind the hole coated with release agent? I suppose it could be machined inside and out once cured.

[bigtoe01]

Sorry but the idea of putting that inside a Feinwerkbau target rifle, while probably eminently practical, 'gives me the boak'.

I have a spare piston and comp tube m8...

I can soon put it back to stock if needed

[wonky donky]

I have not had mine apart, so this may be cods wallop but how about a shallower blind, anti bear trap slot, and trim the peg down, you could fill the slot up with liquid metal to try it. t may end up too shallow to be safe though.

Nick if you want to have a go altering the stroke I have plenty of new 300s compression tubes, pistons & ratchets. One thing to be aware of is the cocking lever can & sometimes does rip itself out of the compression tube if stronger springs are used.

I thought about filling the slot some how, not sure what product to use though, i was considering one of the jb weld products...then i thought why not just fill it with silver solder maybe and hone it gently on the inside.

Strictly speaking you don't need the ratchet, doing away with it makes the cocking cycle no different to say an HW77/97. All the ratchet does is stop the the cocking lever & piston flying forward if your hand slips off the cocking lever half way through the cocking procedure. Lets be fair both your hands are well out of the way during this procedure, or should be. Once the piston is on the trigger sears the ratchet is redundant as it is already in reverse for the forward stroke of the cocking lever,

To fill the slot an old, or new ratchet could be used utilising the the lug with the teeth machined off & bonded in a similar way suggested by Nick, shouldn't be difficult.

The anti bear trap is the little horseshoe shaped part inside the trigger block, & this is a true ABT as it does hold the piston back until the breech is completely closed just in case a sear "lets go" unlike many so called Anti Bear Traps that just lock the trigger blade and are as safe as a chocolate fire guard.

[bigtoe01]

Thanks for the info Dave...

If anyone wants to adjust stroke it is more involved than just machining the nose of the piston, you have to machine the trigger block also to allow the piston skirt to come back further...its a simple job and does not harm the gun.

With the nose machined make sure the cocking arm still lands ok, there is a maximum you can push to...then machine the trigger block back to allow the skirt to come further back.

One day i will post pics of how I did it, really quite simple when you think about it

last the inner cocking arm link needs modifying so it does not rub on the action as it passes the 160deg mark coming backwards....yes you have to grind a bit off and re polish it...then reblue.

[steve B]

My favourite gun from my old Bell target and paper punching days. If someone could make one to near the legal limit there should be a queue of people wanting one - me included.

A co-shooter had one in the 70's and thought it was more than adequate for short range vermin work - though he did find out the hard way what happens when a gun designed for match shooting is dropped on a concrete shed floor - the action was fine but the stock sheared in two by the hand grip.

[bigtoe01]

My favourite gun from my old Bell target and paper punching days. If someone could make one to near the legal limit there should be a queue of people wanting one - me included.

A co-shooter had one in the 70's and thought it was more than adequate for short range vermin work - though he did find out the hard way what happens when a gun designed for match shooting is dropped on a concrete shed floor - the action was fine but the stock sheared in two by the hand grip.

I have used mine for rabbits as it is now, its doing around 9fpe. The name of the game is accuracy and shot placement, which a 300s excels with accuracy so the rest is down to the shooter.

I already know if I made up a batch of comp tubes, pistons and inner cocking arms for a drop in mod the gun would do 11fpe all day.

[DoctorBoudreau]

I already know if I made up a batch of comp tubes, pistons and inner cocking arms for a drop in mod the gun would do 11fpe all day.

I would be first in line and would order 2 kits :-) Seriously it would be my perfect dream rifle. Even if you aren't able to ever offer kits if you could please share either here are via PM someday the exact sizes and clearances you end up with I'd love to send mine to a machinist to have the work carried out.

Also - if the piston is done custom, does the end block still need machining to allow the skirt to come back?

[FattMann]

Have the rival Original /Diana 75 myself and find it a superbly accurate rifle.

[wonky donky]

Have the rival Original /Diana 75 myself and find it a superbly accurate rifle.

I must admit I have a soft spot for the 75

[steve B]

One of my Bell target colleagues had the 75. Brilliant rifle but preferred the trigger in the FWB. Being a penniless student in those days (schoolkid, actually at the start of my bell target career) I'd have happily had either!

[Hsing-ee]

I already know if I made up a batch of comp tubes, pistons and inner cocking arms for a drop in mod the gun would do 11fpe all day.

Gosh, that sounds marvellous. I'd certainly pay top dollar for such a mod.

[bigtoe01]

Gosh, that sounds marvellous. I'd certainly pay top dollar for such a mod.

It would be top dollar and thats the issue, for it to make money I would have to make 50 kits minimum, so 50 piston bodies, 50 rods, 50 noses, 50 comp tubes, 50 breech faces for the comp tubes, then 50 inner cocking linkage rods....then the gun need machining work to allow the stroke.

I bet you would not get change from £300 maybe more.

maybe 1 or 2 kits would get sold, and I would lose massively

so...unless I get to make just 5 kits cnc on a back door cash deal it aint going to happen...sorry , I just do not have the time to stand machining all day right now, day job is picking up etc.

If someone wants the details how to do it...im willing to talk a deal, im not giving it away though.

[Shed tuner]

The anti bear trap is the little horseshoe shaped part inside the trigger block, & this is a true ABT as it does hold the piston back until the breech is completely closed just in case a sear "lets go" unlike many so called Anti Bear Traps that just lock the trigger blade and are as safe as a chocolate fire guard.

Finally, someone who shares my own definition of an ABT

This is why I like the TX & LGU - they have one - whereas the HW77/97 have the choccy fireguard