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Thread: Hege Siber-A-Lausanne .33 pistol ball moulds & loads

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiriK View Post
    Shot 92 and 95 series today with Siber. Barrel should be ok. Powder dose and patch/grease need some experimentation.
    Barrel grooves look somewhat dark. Hard to clean them. My revolver barrel is shiny. Do you guys do some kind of lapping to ml pistol barrels?

    Also, the primer nipple flash hole seems very big compared to nipples in my revolver. Nipple thread is propably M6, but what pitch?
    If the barrel has gone dark, then that is a metallurigical process and is not reversible, due to the formation of low-grade acids during the powder burn process. It is unsightly, but is not harmful. Some powders do this, and some do not. Yours did. None of mine did.

    DO NOT LAP YOUR BARREL! Hege do this as part of the very low volume manufacturing process.

    You'll have to call Hege to find out about the nipple - these pistols might be lying in every corner of the gunstore in merry ol' Finland, here in yUK but I've only ever seen one in my life, and that was at a gun show.

    tac

  2. #2
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    Shot 92 and 95 series today with Siber
    good shooting ,at what range?

  3. #3
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    We shoot at 25m range. 13 shots like in a competition, best 10 included in score.

    I use Swiss no2 powder, but who knows what the previous owner had used.. Possibly Wano.

  4. #4
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    We shoot at 25m range. 13 shots like in a competition, best 10 included in score.
    yup how i practise too,also at 20m too

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Turku
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    Do you know, what kind of lead alloy is used to make H&N round balls?
    I got a bag of .330 rb from my clubmate few weeks ago. I have shot my best groups with those projectiles.
    First test a couple of weeks ago gave really nice group, but it was a bit low.. Today I shot 96p and 94p targets.
    Maybe it is in my head, but I have shot cast projectiles during same training sessions. H&N balls just seem to group better.

    I measured that my own mould drops dia. .3294" balls (averange of 10 measured) vs H&N balls are .3331"
    There is also small difference in weight. Is this difference big enough to be significant?

    I used lead sheets I bought from local scrap yard to cast these balls. Are H&N balls pure lead or some kind of alloy?
    If alloy, how hard is it?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by JiriK View Post
    Do you know, what kind of lead alloy is used to make H&N round balls?
    I got a bag of .330 rb from my clubmate few weeks ago. I have shot my best groups with those projectiles.
    First test a couple of weeks ago gave really nice group, but it was a bit low.. Today I shot 96p and 94p targets.
    Maybe it is in my head, but I have shot cast projectiles during same training sessions. H&N balls just seem to group better.

    I measured that my own mould drops dia. .3294" balls (averange of 10 measured) vs H&N balls are .3331"
    There is also small difference in weight. Is this difference big enough to be significant?

    I used lead sheets I bought from local scrap yard to cast these balls. Are H&N balls pure lead or some kind of alloy?
    If alloy, how hard is it?
    1. H&N balls are not cast, they are swaged and are therefore more uniform than cast.

    2. Naturally it matters if there is a difference in weight - H&N balls do not have a sprue that will inevitably differ from one to another. Remember that you are only shooting a light charge - not for velocity but for accuracy. Even a very small deviation from a common weight will make the ball fly differently, as will having the sprue not exactly centered every time in the bore on loading. With a swaged ball, there is no sprue, hence the increase in accuracy.

    3. H&N claim that their balls are cast from pure lead - who knows what the composition of your scrap lead sheet might be? How much cr*p did you skim off the top when casting from it?

    4. A couple of manufacturers make a simple point-impact lead hardness tester - not a lot - maybe around $2025 or so. In any case, this SIMPLE test will do well enough -

    a. if you can scratch the ball with your thumbnail - it is soft enough.

    b. if two balls roll together and make a dull sound on impact - they are soft enough. Thud = soft and clink = too hard.

    There should be absolutely NO alloying of lead shot from a single-shot pistol of this design.

    tac

  7. #7
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    Oct 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    1. H&N balls are not cast, they are swaged and are therefore more uniform than cast.

    2. Naturally it matters if there is a difference in weight - H&N balls do not have a sprue that will inevitably differ from one to another. Remember that you are only shooting a light charge - not for velocity but for accuracy. Even a very small deviation from a common weight will make the ball fly differently, as will having the sprue not exactly centered every time in the bore on loading. With a swaged ball, there is no sprue, hence the increase in accuracy.

    3. H&N claim that their balls are cast from pure lead - who knows what the composition of your scrap lead sheet might be? How much cr*p did you skim off the top when casting from it?

    4. A couple of manufacturers make a simple point-impact lead hardness tester - not a lot - maybe around $2025 or so. In any case, this SIMPLE test will do well enough -

    a. if you can scratch the ball with your thumbnail - it is soft enough.

    b. if two balls roll together and make a dull sound on impact - they are soft enough. Thud = soft and clink = too hard.

    There should be absolutely NO alloying of lead shot from a single-shot pistol of this design.

    tac
    Thanks for your response.

    I remember when I was casting those balls, there was some waste material that I had to remove from the pot. but not as much as when casting with other lead such as range scrap from our indoors shooting range (no jacketed bullets there, mostly .22 and .32 with some .38)
    I melted the range scrap on other pot to keep the casting pot cleaner.

    My clubmate roughens the surface of his projectiles with some metal mesh. He says it makes the balls fly better and be easier to handle with greasy hands. That step surely makes the sprue get really small, almost invisible. I´ll try that too. Buying balls would feel odd as I have casting equipment.
    Only single cavity moulds for .330 so that is a bit slow but.. Long winter is just around the corner.

    As for the hardness of lead.. I have a little experimental hardness tester in mind. Drop a sharpened object on the ball and see how big dent it leaves. Will post results when I get it done.

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