Registered User
I have a Webley Mk1 pistol and have prepared it for a re-blue. As an engineer, I have successfully blued numerous steel items by heating and dropping in old engine oil, but never a pistol frame. Would this process be suitable for the Webley?
Nothing is enough for the man to whom enough is too little.
The Chrono Slayer
HiOriginally Posted by snodgrass49
Would have thought so if you can keep the thick and the thin parts at the same temp and not go over the critical temp
I did a silencer on a Daystate mk1 and it came out smashing except for the grubscrew holes where a tiny bit of oil must have come out as I spun it in the lathe with emery cloth!!
John
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/
The Chrono Slayer
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/
Registered User
You have achieved an amazing colour there John. Thanks
Nothing is enough for the man to whom enough is too little.
Registered User
the heating shouldn't damage the frame - I once rebuilt a mk1 that had been thrown in a bonfire
"But we have our own dream and our own task. We are with Europe, but not of it. We are linked, but not comprised. We are interested and associated, but not absorbed."
Winston Churchill 1930
Registered User
Well, armed with that information, I certainly feel confidant enough it have a go!the heating shouldn't damage the frame - I once rebuilt a mk1 that had been thrown in a bonfire
Nothing is enough for the man to whom enough is too little.
The Chrono Slayer
I'll bet you already know it but go at the thicker parts first (Handle!!) as the cylinder will warm up quicker
John
for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/
Registered User
You seem to have blued the silencer to the exact age of the Huntsman John.
Takes some doing!
Registered User
I Know its an odd question but can you keep warming it and re dip it to get a deeper colour ??
Registered User
No ! Bluing depends on the thickness of iron oxide, the specific temperature used, produces. Repeated heating and quenching will only thicken the oxide layer and produce blacking. If you want a more intense blue you will need to use a chemical solution, many members on here will be able to give plenty of advice based on their experience. Quenching after heating is only required to stop the retained heat in the component changing the colour from blue to black. Quenching in oil from such a low temperature will not affect the colour produced, although others may disagree on this point. Steels with different chemical analyses will produce different colours at the "bluing" temperature or with the same chemical bluing solution as seen in many Webley Junior Pistols.
I hope that all makes sense and I have remembered it all correctly.
Regards Daveh
If you dont do it today, you might not be able to do it tomorrow!
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