I am surprised how well standard 25mm mk1 hw97s shoot, more than just the internals?

[vobster]

I am wondering if the longer barrel of the mk1 (which I think its the same length as the 77k) has some benefit, and that its not just the 25mm internals.


Thoughts?

[MattyBoy]

I must say mine shoots beautifully in .22 but I had never really wondered why

Any ideas how to get the alloy front off so I can get it reblued?

Cheers
Matty

[MattyBoy]

I must say mine shoots beautifully in .22 but I had never really wondered why

Any ideas how to get the alloy front off so I can get it reblued?

Cheers
Matty

[j dean]

I've just picked up 2 early hw77's with the 25mm piston, a mk1 in .22 and an early mk3 in .177 and I was amazed at how well both of them shoot compared to the newer 26mm guns

[vobster]

I suspect the extra barrel length plays a part, I could swop the internals into my 26mm mk3 97 with its shorter barrel to find out

[j dean]

I suspect the extra barrel length plays a part, I could swop the internals into my 26mm mk3 97 with its shorter barrel to find out

Possibly does play a part as both mine are full length, although I do know for a carbine too so could try that for a comparison

[TonyL]

Even the carbines are super, super sweet.

I think it's all down to the internals.

[TonyL]

Any ideas how to get the alloy front off so I can get it reblued?

Cheers
Matty

Matty....If it's an early one (Mark 1, as we call them, although that was never an official HW designation), apply heat to soften any factory adhesive. I've always found the heat from the wife's hairdryer is ample. Then, using a lump of wood against the unit (above the barrel) tap with a hammer and drift it off.
If it's the later type, I haven't removed one personally.

The Mark 1 that I'm having fun with the stock swap at the moment, was a freebie a few years ago. The unit was broken, so I managed to get a replacement from Steve Pope for £14. Removed as detailed above. However, as it seemed tight enough, like a muppet I didn't loctite it on and, after a few years of use, it crept forward slightly. Removed yesterday and re-fitted (loctited this time).

When I was having fun and games yesterday, the lever clouted the housing when the trigger hadn't engaged.......looks to be slightly damaged, but holding fine, fingers crossed!! What a muppet.

[bigtoe01]

HW97 Rifle has a 385mm barrel (maybe 380 but i think its 385)
HW97K has a 305mm barrel
HW77k has a 370mm barrel

the longer barrel does make the gun more efficient, the power plant also helps ( a LOT)

If you want the ultimate 77k or the 97 rifle you can machine up a new barrel weight to finish almost flush with the end of the barrel and retain the underlever as is to keep the overall length down. They do not really need to be silenced.
Here is a 77k I did ages ago for a mate, the under lever is off a 77full length rifle, i shortened it a tad and reworked the catch, the barrel finished 15mm from the end of the barrel weight. I think this looks rather nice...perfect balance also and the longer under lever made it seriously easy to cock.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...k/IMG_4169.JPG


I MUCH prefer 77k with new barrel weight over a 97k...much nicer rifle, made even better if you swap to 25mm internals OR lighten the 26mm piston down to 230g and short stroke down around 5mm or so.

[TonyL]

Here is a 77k I did ages ago for a mate, the under lever is off a 77full length rifle, i shortened it a tad and reworked the catch, the barrel finished 15mm from the end of the barrel weight. I think this looks rather nice...perfect balance also and the longer under lever made it seriously easy to cock.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...k/IMG_4169.JPG

Now, that DOES look lovely.

[bozzer]

It's long since been acknowledged that the slightly longer barrel of the mk1 and 77k is sweeter than the shorter 97's.

SFS have also latched on to this. They started doing a 97 with the original length mk1 barrel ( so basically a mk1 97 body ) in just 0.177 and tuned up. Aimed at HFT spring shooters probably.

That's why I always kept my 77k's instead of going for the newer 97s.

I also agree with Tony that they will be best with a shrouded barrel like the old Venom Mamba. I think Venom used to actually shorten the barrel but, Like I said, I prefer mine as is.

I have 77k's with Venom silencer/catches on and the normal 77k length underlever. I honestly think ( like Tony is saying ) that the weight is too far forward. It may help with some flip having the weight at the extreme front and in front of the barrel ... but the rifle feels so much better balanced with that silencer removed and weight added onto the barrel.

I posted a thread recently about testing this re accuracy. I'd contacted Tony last year ( or sometime ago ) and he'd said he could do me a full length shroud like a Mamba. I didn't want to do that and then have it blued and then find it wasn't as accurate as with the Venom extended at the front silencer unit on. The rifle had been reblued by Colin Malloy. So I didn't have it done.

I've been looking at getting a front catch made like the original in something rustproof like brass. Then, also have some simple brass tube barrel weights made that I can slip over the barrel, behind the front catch, and see where I prefer the weight. If these new parts are all made out of brass and held on with grubs then I can easily try the accuracy with them and also with the Venom unit and see if the accuracy is affected.

If it isn't and I prefer the feel/balance of the weight further back ( which I'm already convinced I will ... especially for standing shots ) then I can have it done properly with a proper steel shroud that is blued.

That's why I posted that last thread and asked if anyone could do the brass catch and weights.

Maybe it will cost just as much to have the brass bits made as it would having the proper steel shroud. If it's just temporary, whilst I test, then I could just oil up the steel shroud to stop rusting and then have it blued if I'm happy with how it shoots ( if it can just be grubbed on and then loctited later ).

I think there was some rework of the underlever catch, so I'm not sure if that would mean that if I didn't like the feel of the new shroud I wouldn't be able to simply refit the Venom unit. So maybe that was another reason why I didn't take up Tony's offer to make the shroud?

[mrto]

I must say mine shoots beautifully in .22 but I had never really wondered why

Any ideas how to get the alloy front off so I can get it reblued?

Cheers
Matty

I would also likt know how to remove the front end on a 97 mk1 as I have one that needs a re blue too!

ATB.