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Thread: air arms pro elite expert help required

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Nottingham
    Posts
    361

    air arms pro elite expert help required

    hi guys

    any of you on here experts with the pro elite? mine has been laid up not used for ages and since stripping to service prior to getting out using it again I fear I may have found a strange issue with the cylinder...

    when I was using it, it was massively inconsistent. and when stripping it I noticed a little corrosion/green deposits around the little groove just behind the breech jaws. Where the breech jaws are mounted into the cylinder. on investigation it would appear that it may be leaking air between the cylinder and jaws.

    can anyone on here advise how the cylinder is manufactured. are the two parts (cylinder and jaws) either permanently brazed together, or are they as it looks to me like they may be, threaded with a little adhesive to prevent them coming apart and form a seal. the green corrosion/deposits to me are consistent with failed Loctite type adhesive.

    fingers crossed its screwed and glued as then I should be able to heat and dismantle the whole thing then rebuild it with fresh adhesive.

    any advice would be appreciated.

    yorkierm

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    wadebridge cornwall
    Posts
    1,989
    i think its gonna be a complete bugger to remove the jaws from the end of the comp tube [looking at mine] ....... but fear not, there is an easy fix
    take the gun apart so that you have just the action in your hands.
    degrease the insides THOROUGHLY ...
    get a chopstick or similar and put a small blob of bluetac on the end of it..
    poke chopstick inside the action and place bluetac over transfer port hole..[poke around the edges a bit to make sure the hole is nicely sealed]
    now take your piston and de-grease that too......
    put it inside the action and push it down with something made of wood [so as not to harm any metalwork].
    if there is a leak you will now hear it escaping from the perimiter of the jaw-piece
    if no leak, check the barrel locks up ok, and check breech seal
    if it DOES leak heres the fix........

    remove piston again [bluetac will come unstuck due to vacume created]
    re-fit bluetac
    get some threadlock and pour a teaspoon full into the action as you hold the action vertical. [try to drop it at the bottom so it doesnt contaminate the walls of the cylinder]
    now put the piston back inside.
    push down as hard as you can on the piston [keeping the action upright to ensure the locktight will be around the entire circumference of the jwa-piece internally]
    keep pushing as hard as you can [this will force threadlock into any and all gaps ]
    after a minute or so you should see a dribble of locktight coming out of the joint [on the outside of the comp tube/jaw piece]
    now you can stop pushing on the piston
    keep the action upright / vertical
    remove piston and clean again [just incase any locktight got onto the seal]
    as you removed it the bluetac will have come unstuck again, time to remove it and thouroughly clean out ALL the locktight........
    when its nice and clean, do it again [poke tissue in there and use a long thin bit of wood or similar to rotate the tissue]
    make sure all [and i mean all] the excess locktight has been mopped up
    now clean any dribbles of locktight from the outside
    leave the action [still propped upright] overnight to harden...
    rebuild the gun, and enjoy a leak-free shooting experiance
    TINKERING WITH PASTY POWER

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Nottingham
    Posts
    361
    I plan on conduction a test along those lines to confirm/dismiss my suspicions.

    I have tried a little local heat to see if it dismantles but to no avail and I do not wish to go too far until I know for sure how it was initially assembled. on very close inspection of the area there looks to me a slight machining mark running round the circumference of the minor diameter of the jaws which may indicate the start of a machine thread, but I cannot say for sure.

    I call to air arms on Monday may be in order.

    I have never heard of this type of fault with any high end rifle. I know some of the cheaper range of guns are assembled with o ring seals and pinned together.

    has anyone else ever come across this type of failure?

    yorkerim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Malta, sometimes London
    Posts
    5,881
    I think you are getting a bit carried away here.

    All you say is that the gun is inconsistent. The corrosion/whatever, wipe it off and be done, for now at least.

    The inconsistency could be due to the fact that you have just taken it apart and there may be lube where there should be none or very little.

    Also, these guns have one known issue, that is with the piston seal detaching from the piston. Now when this happens it generally sits at the base of the cylinder, just blocking the TP, so you fire, and all seems and sounds OK, but the pellet just stays put.

    Perhaps - just perhaps - something related to the piston seal has happened.

    For starters I would test it further and see whether it settles down, and if applicable, stops dieseling.

    Second, I would take it apart again and check that all is well with the piston seal, and if yes, re-assy with care to the amount of lube and where it's going.

    Then, test again.

    And obviously as Slugger mentioned, check other potential obvious culprits like the breech seal.

    If it's still crazy and you are sure it is not dieseling only then should you worry about anything else, and Slugger's technique seems very well thought out indeed.
    **WANTED**: WEBLEY PATRIOT MUZZLE END; Any Diana/Original mod.50 parts, especially OPEN SIGHTS

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