Tx200 mk1

[frogboy]

I have a stripped reblued TX (Mr Molloy did a superb job).

just wondering is there a guide that will show you what to thread lock and what just to tighten?

most things are reasonably intuitive, but when it is stripped down to each component part

[Gwylan]

Not sure why you need thread lock on a classic springer.

Gus

[Brian.Samson]

If you have the piston rod removed, you could threadlock that - everything else just tighten.

[BTDT]

Lee - just ask Eddie.

[FPoole]

The barrel and the piece on the end of the barrel will need thread lock. I've had both these parts loosen on my old TX's. Dry fit them first to get an idea where the barrel needs to be indexed so that the end piece has the correct gap at the detent ball. I put the end on all the way then put the barrel in and check the gap. If it needs a little backing off(the detent), you can get the gap right then center the detent and cocking arm. Then, make a mark on some masking tape at the receiver/barrel connection. This is hard to explain in words, but hopefully you will get the gist of it when dry fitting. Most seem to be fine when the muzzle end piece is screwed on fully, but I have one that was a bit too tight when screwed in fully.

[edbear2]

Hi lee, 638 should suit the barrel into the cylinder joint. 222 on the ball detent housing screw (and stock hardware if you are paranoid), although the forend and guard screws don't seem to vibrate loose like older guns.

The 638 will fill any play in the barrel to cylinder joint area, but the couple I have done have been a pretty good fit, with a barely perceptible amount of play. Don't get it on the threaded portion where the nut goes, use 222/243 on the nut if you want belt and braces

As someone has posted already, align the barrel by using the cocking lever assembly, I cant remember what (or if) you front sight set up was on this one...or was it that .22 with the lever issue?

See you Thursday mate, bring it along if you want more info

ATB, Ed