thanks for the info,ive used perma blue in the past but it doesnt seem to colour deeply on the edges/angles very well,all the best
thanks for the info,ive used perma blue in the past but it doesnt seem to colour deeply on the edges/angles very well,all the best
Martin, just blued this this Diana 79 from bare white metal, it is a medium size rifle. It took about 18-20 grms of G96 paste which means you could do about 4 to5 rifles from scratch with one tub. This works out at £2.50 each. If I had spent more time on the buffing machine it would have been a shinier finish.
Baz
BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD
My biggest problem with cold blue(have tried g96, hoppes, birchwood casey, some german gel, brownells oxpho, and a locally made Norwegian solution) is the wear to a dull grey fast inf you handle the gun much.
Next biggest problem is the smell.
thumbs up to baz for taking the time to research and post the result,very much appreciated,thanks
Never seen that happen, unless the steel is extra hard or has alloys added, and never had a problem with G96 smelling. Done loads of pistols in Africa and dozens of air rifles in UK. To me there is no alternative because I would never pay someone else to hot blue, you can never recoup the cost when selling, and I really I do not see the need to do hot blueing myself. I think the difference is if you want to restore a classic rifle to concours condition and cost is not a problem go for hot blueing. If you want to bring back a rifle to good workable use cheaply with a decent appearance go for cold blue.
Baz
Last edited by Benelli B76; 01-12-2014 at 08:01 AM.
BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD