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Thread: Annealing.

  1. #1
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    Annealing.

    I've just had my first attempt at annealing, tiny .22 Hornet cases! The majority came out fine with a light blue line about 1/3rd of the way down the case. However, 5 or 6 have the discolouration extending further down, some nearly to the base. Have I ruined these cases ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eligus View Post
    I've just had my first attempt at annealing, tiny .22 Hornet cases! The majority came out fine with a light blue line about 1/3rd of the way down the case. However, 5 or 6 have the discolouration extending further down, some nearly to the base. Have I ruined these cases ?
    If the change in colour is below the neck I would say they are all knackered.

  3. #3
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    I tend to anneal the neck and shoulder as long as it goes no further down than the top third. It's up to you if you decide the ones that have gone further are dodgey. If it was me I'd either mangle and bin them or try them with a lighter load from a safe distance with 10ft of string to the trigger and the rifle strapped down in a work mate or similar.
    If you've got loads of brass then save the time and effort of doing that - put those down to experience and chuck em after they've been mangled.

    Oops, edited this just now
    Last edited by strebblo; 14-12-2014 at 01:04 PM. Reason: less bumming required...
    Life is short, remember - Carpae Dentum ...

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    harry mac is offline You can't say muntjack without saying mmmmm
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    Quote Originally Posted by strebblo View Post
    mangle and bum them .
    The South of England has 2 good things, the M1 and the A1. Both will take you to Yorkshire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by harry mac View Post
    Well spotted! That's the only trouble with the swipe keyboard and predictive text on my phone - it turns me into a total spaz!

    Honestly, it's not often that I get to advise anyone to mangle and bum.... That's usually the other forum!
    Life is short, remember - Carpae Dentum ...

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    Thanks, I'm not all that fussed about a few cases, they can go. I'll only use the ones that look decent although I'm only loading nowhere near the max recommended load.

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    "Men occasionally stumble on the truth, but most of them pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing had happened" Winston Churchill
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    That's exactly what you need if you're entirely devoid of any kind of practical skill, a blow torch and a drill.
    Or maybe just far more money than sense.

    It's not difficult to do it properly or consistently with just a blow torch and cordless drill.
    Life is short, remember - Carpae Dentum ...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eligus View Post
    I've just had my first attempt at annealing, tiny .22 Hornet cases! The majority came out fine with a light blue line about 1/3rd of the way down the case. However, 5 or 6 have the discolouration extending further down, some nearly to the base. Have I ruined these cases ?
    If you're annealing for accuracy, then consistency is the name of the game - really need to be all the same. The colour change isn't always reliable, a newly tumbled case very often shows very little colour change, the same case that has been standing for a week before annealing will show a classic blue colour.

    These are cases I annealed straight after tumbling in SS media.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcyAkj-LzA8

  10. #10
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    just building this in my workshop.

    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...81828268,d.ZGU

    very simple and easy with a variable power supply to a old 12 volt drill as the driver.

    6mmbrbob.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6mmbrbob View Post
    http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct...81828268,d.ZGU

    very simple and easy with a variable power supply to a old 12 volt drill as the driver.

    6mmbrbob.
    loving that device
    Rapid 7 / 10-22 ATN 2 Stiller Predator .204 Pulsar N970 Tikka T3 semi custom ATN MARS thermal.204 Tikka T3 Semi.223 Wylde IOR Operator Lawton 6mmBR Kahles Gen 3 - Stiller 6.5 x 47 Bushnell BDX - Winchester Red Performance SX3 12g

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    Here's a bit of kit I made a couple of years ago

    DIY annealer
    I though about buying a machine until I saw the price so I made this
    http://youtu.be/z0TlctbLT3w
    I am not an engineer and most parts came from the bay
    I could take a few photos of the works if anyone is interested
    Steve
    Steve

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulls_hitter View Post
    DIY annealer
    I though about buying a machine until I saw the price so I made this
    http://youtu.be/z0TlctbLT3w
    I am not an engineer and most parts came from the bay
    I could take a few photos of the works if anyone is interested
    Steve
    More chance of me landing a F16
    Rapid 7 / 10-22 ATN 2 Stiller Predator .204 Pulsar N970 Tikka T3 semi custom ATN MARS thermal.204 Tikka T3 Semi.223 Wylde IOR Operator Lawton 6mmBR Kahles Gen 3 - Stiller 6.5 x 47 Bushnell BDX - Winchester Red Performance SX3 12g

  14. #14
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    I have a question about annealing.

    I have watched a pile of YouTube videos and looked at various discussions on this, what I do not get is why after heating the brass, some drop it into cold water, which is what I thought your were supposed to do with brass to soften it, but some don’t and let it air cool, surely this will not work.. maybe I am wrong.


    Dave
    It’s sometimes best to keep your mouth shut and appear stupid rather than open your mouth and dispel all doubt…

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
    I have a question about annealing.

    I have watched a pile of YouTube videos and looked at various discussions on this, what I do not get is why after heating the brass, some drop it into cold water, which is what I thought your were supposed to do with brass to soften it, but some don’t and let it air cool, surely this will not work.. maybe I am wrong.


    Dave
    The annealing process with brass is different than something like steel. To anneal steel you would heat to red hot then cool slowly, to harden it you would heat to red hot then cool it quickly by quenching in water/oil.

    With brass it makes no difference whether you let it cool slowly in the air or water quench, it still stays soft, brass is hardened by working it (which is why we anneal cases)

    To anneal brass you need to raise the temperature to above about 600F but below about 850F, the problem is that we only want some of the case annealed not the whole lot.

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